Clutch spline lube questions

Snod Blatter · 1 Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 5:28 pm

Snod Blatter

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I could have made a thread for every question but maybe this one will do.. Laughing

I'm getting ready to remove the gearbox and Chris Harris says I have to remove parts of the clutch actuation mechanism i.e. the little gaiter and the return spring and the clutch thrust piston. To be honest, I don't see why? Do I really? Reason I'm asking is that I can't get the thrust piston out without removing the arm, and frankly I don't even know if I could ever get the arm off.
Clutch spline lube questions JaGJcDX

I tried removing the adjuster nut and bolt but the head just came off the bolt and I had to use my new nut extractors to get the not off, so that's broken. The jubilee clip for the gaiter is now also broken. I'm not sure if maybe the gaiter is broken (it has some kind of adhesive inside which is now no long adhering??). This is fighting me all the way. Why does it have to come out??

Here's Chris doing it. My bike seems quite different, the arm isn't spring loaded and it doesn't seem to move away so far.

Also, why do the stands have to come off? Can I not keep it all together? If anything the stands will tip the gearbox forward when it's on the floor and stop it leaking so much..

Dai · 2 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 8:38 pm

Dai

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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0501-EUR-11-1983-K589-BMW-K_100_83_0501,0511_&diagId=21_0252

Yes, there should be a spring in there. There should also be a 'washer' in the gaiter that locates the clutch arm and the spring - I'd guess it's gone missing and you're seeing the remains of the bonding glue. If the gaiter was intact, the spring inside would push the clutch lever so far back that it would almost certainly rip the gaiter.

As you've got the exhaust off, the gearbox should come off with the mainstand attached but given all the other trouble you've had, I would at least pull the bolts out one-by-one and slather the buggers in copaslip first. Leaving the mainstand on does make it slightly easier to line the gearbox up on rebuild because you can shove a bit of wood underneath to bring it up to engine level. One other trick I employ is to put the gearbox into gear before offering it up because that makes rotating the mainshaft to match the clutch that much easier. You won't do it with your fingers but a pair of molegrips lightly gripppepd onto the output shaft will be okay and not damage the splines.

You're probably going to find that you'll need to take a BFM (mallet!) to the gearbox to free it up.

The clutch arm... PM me because I'm fairly sure I have a complete spare somewhere that you can have.

(Goes and checks the garage)

Yes I do, complete with adjuster, pivot and a grease nipple (also known as the Martin Fitment). Looking at your existing one, you're going to need a lot of heat and oil in there to get the pivot out. Yes, BTDT.

On reassembly, I have in the past put the new gaiter on while the gearbox was still on the bench (floor!) and tied the clutch arm to the clutch cable slot to stop it from flying out and damaging the gaiter. It doesn't need to be in the fully pulled in position, just tied in enough to stop the spring stretching the gaiter.

As to why it's fighting you the whole way - well, we both live in the UK.

Laitch · 3 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 9:25 pm

Laitch

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Snod Blatter wrote: This is fighting me all the way. Why does it have to come out??
Here's Chris doing it. My bike seems quite different, the arm isn't spring loaded and it doesn't seem to move away so far.

The clutch arm on your brick isn't spring loaded because you don't have a clutch-lever actuated side stand retractor mounted on the rusty rod visible behind the clutch arm protruding from the transmission case of your Brick. In the photo below the yellow arrow points at the spring and the black arrow points to the retractor arm that would be mounted on the rusty rod of your Brick's transmission. A coil spring acts on the arm to reposition it after it retracts the sidestand. Your clutch arm doesn't swing as far back as Harris's example because yours is too corroded. Heat it apply Liquid Wrench or another penetrant and work it so it rotates smoothly backward and forward. Lubricating the arm—Dai suggests using Martin's method—will likely improve gear shifting.

Consider making a service box like Chris Harris's out of scrap plywood and stabilizing this project by using it. Here are the dimensions. Have you made two long threaded rods to substitute for one pair of transmission bolts to help slide the unit backwards when you're ready for removal?

duck · 4 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 10:54 pm

duck

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You do not need to remove any of the clutch actuation parts to do a clutch spline lube. However it is a good idea to use zip-ties to hold the clutch arm up against the clutch boot. If you don't then the spring inside of the (expensive) clutch boot can tear the boot.

Clutch spline lube questions D7IeCVz

Snod Blatter · 5 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 4:32 am

Snod Blatter

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Ahhh this makes sense, all this business was already removed from my bike when I bought it so I'm yet to see all of this and how it works. I wondered why the pivot pin was so long!

Many thanks to all for the help, I wish I knew I could've just held the arm up because the gaiter wasn't leaking. It looks like this on the inside, complete with adhesive snot, is this ok or is the washer indeed missing?
Clutch spline lube questions POlQ5bb

Motorworks are selling these gaiters for around £16 so it's not the end of the world if it's no good. It's not ripped though, since the arm will only turn so far back it seems to have saved me from that.

I am aware of the need for pins for easier removal/fitment and intend to make some today, if I can find some suitable bolts.

Dai - I may well take you up on your offer if I can get the pivot pin out. My arm does have a grease nipple fitted but I didn't grease it for a looong time as it seemed fine.. To be fair the arm still flaps about nicely now, just not to its full travel apparently!

duck · 6 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 6:19 am

duck

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Laitch wrote:

The clutch arm on your brick isn't spring loaded because you don't have a clutch-lever actuated side stand retractor mounted on the rusty rod visible behind the clutch arm protruding from the transmission case of your Brick.

This is incorrect. The side stand retractor spring does not push on the clutch arm at all. What pushes the clutch arm back is the clutch diaphragm spring via the pushrod when the transmission is installed.

The side stand retractor spring pushes the bottom of the retractor lever toward the rear as you can see in this picture.

Clutch spline lube questions UpnhErJ

Dai · 7 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 7:27 am

Dai

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Snod Blatter wrote:Many thanks to all for the help, I wish I knew I could've just held the arm up because the gaiter wasn't leaking. It looks like this on the inside, complete with adhesive snot, is this ok or is the washer indeed missing?

No, that looks fine for re-use if it isn't torn. It's more of a hat shape than a flat washer - you can see the size of it in the picture you have posted. The worm drive should seal the front of the gaiter, so I have no idea why someone has used what apppears to be Blue Hylomar on there.. There will always be a small amount of oil in the gaiter but there should never be enough to leak out through the hat hole where the clutch arm locates.

Snod Blatter · 8 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 8:02 am

Snod Blatter

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Quick update - I shouldn't have tried to do any of this in the dark last night. The arm wouldn't go any further because a previous owner has helpfully installed a grease nipple on the underside!
Clutch spline lube questions Tu5McJx

Thankfully this turned out with a little spanner so now the arm turns freely. It glides around easily so, as much as I appreciate Dai's offer, I'm not sure if I need another arm.

Clutch spline lube questions QmUTK5e

More goo, is this hat supposed to be left in the arm? Is it part of the arm?

Nearly there now, I hope.

Dai · 9 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 10:17 am

Dai

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That 'hat' is where the nose of the adjuster bolt pokes through. Also, if you have one, shoving a rubber bung in the hole vacated by the grease nipple would be a great help in preventing the ingress of excrement.

Laitch · 10 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 11:34 am

Laitch

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duck wrote:

Laitch wrote:The clutch arm on your brick isn't spring loaded because you don't have a clutch-lever actuated side stand retractor mounted on the rusty rod visible behind the clutch arm protruding from the transmission case of your Brick.

This is incorrect. The side stand retractor spring does not push on the clutch arm at all.

It is incorrect in the context of your photo, but not in the context of Snodblatter's situation. With the muffler and exhaust off and the clutch arm disconnected, the clutch arm can swing downward and contact the side stand retractor arm. The point of contact is indicated in the screen shot below from the Harris video. If the clutch arm is then pushed a little further, the spring of the retractor arm acts on the clutch arm, so on the Harris video the clutch arm appears to be spring-loaded, but it isn't; pushing clutch arm against the retractor arm makes it seem that way.

duck · 11 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 12:31 pm

duck

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Laitch wrote:

duck wrote:

Laitch wrote:The clutch arm on your brick isn't spring loaded because you don't have a clutch-lever actuated side stand retractor mounted on the rusty rod visible behind the clutch arm protruding from the transmission case of your Brick.

This is incorrect. The side stand retractor spring does not push on the clutch arm at all.

It is incorrect in the context of your photo, but not in the context of Snodblatter's situation. With the muffler and exhaust off and the clutch arm disconnected, the clutch arm can swing downward and contact the side stand retractor arm. The point of contact is indicated in the screen shot below from the Harris video. If the clutch arm is then pushed a little further, the spring of the retractor arm acts on the clutch arm, so on the Harris video the clutch arm appears to be spring-loaded, but it isn't; pushing clutch arm against the retractor arm makes it seem that way.

If the side stand is down then the resistance to the clutch arm moving forward is caused by the bottom of the retractor lever pulling on the rod that is connected to the pawl at the side stand pivot, not the spring on the clutch arm pivot rod. If the side stand is up then there's NOTHING pushing the clutch arm back aside from the clutch diaphragm spring via the pushrod.

Look at the spring's orientation in the picture that I posted. It is PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE for that spring to make the retractor lever push on the clutch arm. In fact, it pushes in the exact opposite direction. It pushes on the bottom of the retractor lever, not the top.

Don't believe your own lying eyes though. Fine with me.

Laitch · 12 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 12:45 pm

Laitch

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duck wrote:Fine with me.

It doesn't seem fine with you, duck, given the detail of your response and your slightly askew suggestion that I don't believe what isn't there—or something to that effect—but that's fine with me, too. Laughing

No doubt SnodBlatter will move on regardless.

duck · 13 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 1:35 pm

duck

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Laitch wrote:

duck wrote:Fine with me.

It doesn't seem fine with you, duck, given the detail of your response and your slightly askew suggestion that I don't believe what isn't there—or something to that effect—but that's fine with me, too. No doubt SnodBlatter will move on regardless.

If you don't believe me and visual evidence then maybe real life will help you understand the purpose of that spring.

Here's a little "experiment" that will help you understand the purpose of that spring:

1 - Put the bike on the center stand.
2 - Deploy the side stand.
3 - As you put the side stand up watch what happens to the retractor lever on the clutch pivot rod..
4 - Driven by that spring the lever will rotate CCW to keep it from interfering with the clutch arm moving forward.

That's why that spring is there: to keep the retractor lever AWAY FROM THE CLUTCH ARM when the side stand is up.

Laitch · 14 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 8:07 pm

Laitch

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In the general scheme of things, it doesn't matter whether I believe you, duck—at least about this, anyway. cheers

Point-Seven-five · 15 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 20, 2023 8:49 pm

Point-Seven-five

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Gotta get some popcorn...

Snod Blatter · 16 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sun May 21, 2023 10:05 am

Snod Blatter

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Handbags at dawn.. And I have no idea who's right (or really much of what they're talking about). Anyway! For a start, the stands do have to come off so that the two bolts at the bottom of the gearbox can be be undone. So that's fine.

Everything has come undone and I'm about ready to start "persuading" the gearbox to come off but I've just realised the bracket holding the ABS canisters seems to also be bolted to the gearbox. But I can't figure out where or how?? It goes between the battery tray and the gearbox, like so:
Clutch spline lube questions OKvFs2h

Can I detach it? Is it easier to undo the two bolts holding each canister in place and tie them up? I don't want to stress the solid brake lines any more than I have to, which is very difficult when it all has to come apart. Certainly I can't just slide the gearbox off with all this stuff in the way.

Chris Harris didn't have this problem!

Also, I don't have the fancy bearing inside the clutch actuation hole that Chris had. Is that just because mine is a later model? Or do I have to pull more things out the hole?

Also also, I've made some studs but they only poke out the gearbox by about 3cm. I'm guessing this won't be long enough to make sure I don't bend the pushrod thing? I knew I should've spent a few pence more and bought the 10cm bolts instead of 6cm..

Point-Seven-five · 17 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sun May 21, 2023 10:35 am

Point-Seven-five

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I would go back to the hardware store and get the 10cm bolts, or longer if they have them.

10cm is about the minimum length that will let you get to the clutch splines.

To put the lube on the splines I got some of those tubular metal shaft "parts cleaning" brushes. By sticking a 6mm dowel in the handle you can make it longer to easily reach the splines through the gap.

Laitch · 18 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sun May 21, 2023 10:37 am

Laitch

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Snod Blatter wrote:Handbags at dawn..

Also, I don't have the fancy bearing inside the clutch actuation hole that Chris had. Is that just because mine is a later model?

You've got the later, one-piece version of the clutch bearing there. Clutch spline lube questions 112350

Snod Blatter · 19 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sun May 21, 2023 5:00 pm

Snod Blatter

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Laitch wrote:You've got the later, one-piece version of the clutch bearing there.

Ah that's a relief.

So to answer my own question about the ABS canister bracket, yes it does have to come off. The way it fits to the canisters means it cannot slide backwards, they'll be in the way. It is held down by the rubbers underneath the battery tray, so you have to take the tray off. Thankfully the little nuts undid very easily.
Clutch spline lube questions AOSOdQ5

The bolts holding the canisters to the bracket also came undone fairly easily so all I did then was use zip ties to hold them up.

I went and got some 10mm long bolts, sawed the heads off and then it was gearbox removal time after unthreading the gear indicator wire. After just a few taps of the hammer it broke loose and very soon..
Clutch spline lube questions HF2CgN0

The splines:
Clutch spline lube questions TJaMY0A

They look fine to me? And then finally the clutch plate:
Clutch spline lube questions XPJ0rpl

Part of this job was to measure what was left of the clutch, as I've not touched it in the 23K miles I've owned the bike. With a vernier caliper I'm getting 5.35mm which seems close to new?? The book says 5.55-5.05mm with a wear limit of 4.5mm. So now I wish I'd left it in one piece, but at least I know now.

I'll be making a shopping list at Motorworks after work tomorrow, pretty sure I'll replace the clutch arm gaiter thing too because it's very soft and a little sticky, I don't trust it to last much longer. Other than a special tool to align the clutch and the exhaust studs/nuts/gaskets I don't think I need anything else? Oh maybe some mounts for the rear of the ABS canisters because there's nothing left of them. Oh and the special screw that goes into the clutch arm, though I couldn't find it on Motorwork's site. Oh and maybe a coolant tank that doesn't have the sight glass cracked to buggery with little holes in it. Hmmm.

MartinW · 20 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sun May 21, 2023 5:20 pm

MartinW

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While you're there consider fitting a grease nipple. Occasional greasing stops water and road crap from getting in. Greasing of the pivot points and lever helps with wear and ease of use. The Teflon lined cable does benefit from a PTFE lubricant like Tri Flow, don't use WD40. You'd be surprised at the black crap that comes out when you first lube it.
Regards Martin.

Dai · 21 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sun May 21, 2023 5:49 pm

Dai

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Ah! I hadn't realised you have a post-87 RS with ABS.

Those splines look perfect to me. Be very careful when reassembling the clutch; there are three pins which locate the flywheel to the rest of the assembly. You'd think that they'd be made of some super-duper steel to do the job but no; the buggers are made from cheese. At least, they're very soft and distort very easily meaning that you can quickly end up in a situation where the clutch won't go back together.

duck · 22 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 8:48 am

duck

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Laitch wrote:In the general scheme of things, it doesn't matter whether I believe you, duck—at least about this, anyway.

I have a VERY simple question for you: Did you try the experiment that I suggested? Which way does that spring move the top of the retractor lever? Towards the clutch arm or away from it?

Rick G · 23 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 10:01 am

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Snoddy what is the grease on the splines? To me it looks maybe like a nickel or Aluminium based antisieze. If it is don't use it as it has no protection against wear. Just being cautious.

Snod Blatter · 24 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 3:12 pm

Snod Blatter

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Dai - many thanks for the tips (as always), I will do my best to be careful with them. By the way does it matter which holes I put these pins through? There are 3 choices and I didn't pay much attention when taking it apart Embarassed

Rick - I have no idea what it is, I didn't put it there! It's from the engine swap done by James Sherlock. You'd hope it was the special Staburags stuff given that, but I bet it's not. I plan to use Castrol "Molub-Alloy Paste TA" which is a thick, sticky high moly assembly paste. Last time I was looking for moly grease for the final drive splines this was pretty much all you could get in Europe except something similar from Loctite. The old Honda Moly had been discontinued and even Guard Dog for the Americans had ceased production. Not sure if there is better stuff out there now? The Holy Harris says anything that isn't Staburags only lasts about 20K miles but that's okay with me, I'll about need a clutch by then.

I've bought the stuff from Motorworks, everything except the adjuster bolt for the clutch arm as they don't seem to sell it. Moto-bins do sell it but they're more expensive for everything else so I'll actually save a little money buying it separately from there and paying two lots of postage. Years ago the 'bins were the cheap one, not sure what's happened there but they need to sort themselves out! Still costing me about £100 though..

Laitch · 25 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 3:40 pm

Laitch

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duck wrote:I have a VERY simple question for you: . . .

A senior and novice monk were traveling through the countryside when they came upon a river. The river was swollen making it very difficult to pass. Standing at the edge of the river was a lovely, young woman in elegant clothes unsure of how to get across. She asked the monks for help.

The monks had taken a vow of celibacy that prevented them from making eye contact with women, much less touching them. But after barely a pause, the senior monk picked up the woman and carried her across. The novice monk was shocked and speechless. His elder had broken his vows!

As the monks continued their journey hours passed and no one spoke until the younger monk could no longer contain himself. “How could you carry that woman across the river when we aren’t even supposed to look at women?” he blurted out in frustration.

The senior monk replied, “I set that woman down hours ago. Why are you still carrying her?”

Dai · 26 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 4:24 pm

Dai

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Snod Blatter wrote:By the way does it matter which holes I put these pins through? There are 3 choices and I didn't pay much attention when taking it apart

(...)

I've bought the stuff from Motorworks, everything except the adjuster bolt for the clutch arm as they don't seem to sell it.

Put the clutch on the bench and experiment. IIRC there's only one that lines up correctly.

As regard the adjuster bolt; get a set screw about 30mm in length and file off the leading three or four threads. Round the nose off with said file and finish with wet'n'dry. Voila!

daveyson · 27 Clutch Mon May 22, 2023 5:54 pm

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You should see three paint marks on the parts, probably two white lines and a yellow dot on the flywheel. These balance marks should be spaced about 120 degrees apart.

Dai · 28 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 8:42 pm

Dai

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Unless some git's painted his own on there Evil or Very Mad

. Two white, one yellow and two red, none of which lined up in any logical form. I took an educated guess at it and judging by the result, got it right but that was pure luck. Thanks for the reminder about the balance marks.

The second clutch I pulled off, I scraped a mark on each part as it came off to line them up on reassembly. When it was on the bench, guess what? There wuz no balance marks on that one affraid

Rick G · 29 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Mon May 22, 2023 8:57 pm

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I have come across quite a few that were not marked and put many in without any alignment marks and never had a vibration from any.
My take on it is that at the factory each assembly is put together, balance checked then marked and used as a set on each engine.
Each of the components is dynamically balanced when made as this can be seen when buying the individual parts as spares. They are not sold as a set which says to me that the alignment marks are not too important.

Snod Blatter · 30 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Wed May 24, 2023 3:51 pm

Snod Blatter

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I did run a felt tip pen across the clutch while it was still together, but that only marked the heavy bits - the thin inner bits escaped this. I also have a blue dot and a pink dot and maybe another dot on the part that is still on the engine, I do vaguely remember reading about these but can't remember what was said. I'll see if it does indeed only go together in one position, that would be great.

The clutch arm bolt, since it does so much work I figured it would be important for the end to be the right shape? Like, exactly the right shape. But maybe not!

2 days on from ordering at Motorworks and the order is still "processing" which is quite annoying as I thought everything I ordered was in stock. I can't really miss a weekend of fixing so have sent them an enquiry on their site asking what's going on. They're actually not that far away so maybe I can even go there on Friday if it helps. EDIT: No I can't it's not a shop any more. I forgot that.

Laitch · 31 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Wed May 24, 2023 6:16 pm

Laitch

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Snod Blatter wrote:The clutch arm bolt, since it does so much work I figured it would be important for the end to be the right shape? Like, exactly the right shape.

Attached are some photos of the clutch arm adjusting bolt via MAX BMW in the US of A. A smooth surface on the contact end promotes a light clutch pull. It's a $6.50 OEM M8 bolt over here. Remember to install the nut to lock it into position.

Snod Blatter · 32 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 26, 2023 5:36 pm

Snod Blatter

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Today the bag of bits arrived so I could start putting everything together. All was going swimmingly, I was almost enjoying myself, until I saw this..
Clutch spline lube questions MtlBhzm

I was wondering what all the fuss was about, it didn't seem to be at full stretch. But obviously it was. £16 down the swanny but even more annoyingly it stops me getting further with the job this weekend.. My own fault but I was just following Harris' instructions about putting this on while the gearbox is off the bike. I don't understand why he recommends this, if anything it was harder to do than when it's up in the air like it is now. Oh well.

Otherwise I spaced the clutch balance marks 120 degrees apart after finding out the yellow spot on the flywheel that looked like rust was actually the mark, and had a bit of a game getting the gearbox to fit back into place but it squeezed on with the help of a few of its bolts. The reassembly is much quicker now I know what I'm doing, I just hope it all works when I go for the test ride..!

daveyson · 33 Clutch splines Fri May 26, 2023 6:39 pm

daveyson

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Good luck with it.

I'm also thinking the paint marks are trivial and only represents the heavy point after drilling for balance if it's within acceptable limits.

This reminds me of balancing tyres, after aligning the balance marks, if it's perfectly balanced you don't put a weight on it, but then it doesn't look like it's been balanced. If the part is perfectly balanced, there's no heavy point to put a paint mark on. Those ones can be assembled regardless. The paint marks would only represent a tiny amount, and these parts are of a small diameter anyway. Another thing, the paint might have come off. The yellow dot was missing on mine, but I could still see a very faint yellow stain where it was.

Last edited by daveyson on Fri May 26, 2023 9:29 pm; edited 2 times in total

Dai · 34 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 26, 2023 7:15 pm

Dai

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Posts 2 and 4... sorry if it's a bit 'I told you so' Laughing

Particularly post 4 because it shows the clutch arm tied up with a tyrap.

MartinW · 35 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 26, 2023 11:36 pm

MartinW

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Sees post 20 you can make life for the clutch arm and cable a lot easier. It's a pretty easy job.
Regards Martin.

duck · 36 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 27, 2023 3:06 am

duck

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Rick G wrote:I have come across quite a few that were not marked and put many in without any alignment marks and never had a vibration from any.
My take on it is that at the factory each assembly is put together, balance checked then marked and used as a set on each engine.
Each of the components is dynamically balanced when made as this can be seen when buying the individual parts as spares. They are not sold as a set which says to me that the alignment marks are not too important.

Excellent point. From what I can tell each part (the clutch basket and both pressure plates) are individually dynamically balanced so it should not make a material difference in how they align with each other.

That said, it can't hurt to try to reassemble in the way that you found it so marking each piece when you disassemble isn't a bad idea.

daveyson · 37 Clutch splines Sat May 27, 2023 3:44 am

daveyson

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It's because the heavy points are marked that the parts can be sold separately, simply space the marks about 120degrees apart. Marking the parts before disassembly helps if the parts can be reused, but if parts need to be replaced you want to know the heavy spots. You might get away with putting the heavy points together, but what's the benefit of making it as unbalanced as possible? Clymer, Gregory's and the BMW manual all recommend spacing the balance marks about 120 degrees apart.

Snod Blatter · 38 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Sat May 27, 2023 6:36 am

Snod Blatter

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Yep, everyone told me but when the old gaiter never tore I didn't pay much notice to it.. I wasn't sure why the arm wasn't pushed up against the grease nipple this time, now I know why - the gaiter was at full stretch. Clearly the old one is stretchier (because it seems half melted).

Ho hum, I can order another one from Moto-Bins and get a clutch arm adjustment bolt at the same time. It's funny really, if they were more expensive I would've been more careful!

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1 Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 5:28 pm

Snod Blatter

2 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 8:38 pm

Dai

3 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 9:25 pm

Laitch

4 Re: Clutch spline lube questions Fri May 19, 2023 10:54 pm

duck

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duck

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duck

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39 Re: Clutch spline lube questions

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