Thanks to Rick G I have a new toy and project. Have replaced external fuel lines and added fuel to tank to soften the crap. Have carby cleaner ready for tank clean up Saturday morning.]https://i.servimg.com/u/f78/18/07/97/94/img_3229.jpghttps://i.servimg.com/u/f78/18/07/97/94/img_3[/url]231.jpg

WTF do they put in fuel in some countries?

I know we pay dearly for the stuff in the UK but I've never seen it do that even after many years.

Looking forward to the restoration BTW.

Be sure to get some BIG long rubber gloves and wear them while cleaning this, or you will never get the black goo off your skin. Protect the floor around your work area with a big tarp.
It's a difficult task, I've done it twice. There's no magic potion to dissolve this stuff. I've used a gallon of lacquer thinner in the tank, sealed it up swished it around, let it set for a day or two, shake it around, repeat, repeat, repeat.
(after you scoop out the worst of it, especially in the well under the fuel pump) I also tried a 12 gallon of simple green & filled with very hot water, swished some more, soaked, swished, soaked, swished, etc.
You can also try acetone.
About 10 days, you'll have it

good luck waz ...got my fingers crossed ,,for an easy clean up

Thanks
Charlie
Gunna take the injectors and and soak them for a couple of weeks while I am doing other bits, what shoul I use to soak them in? Thinners, fuel, accetone. I seen somwhere you advised somthing in a jar but I can not find it again.

hi waz ...alby is the man with good success on the injectors

personally.. i would soak them in fresh fuel for a bit

once you can get some flow happening the carbi clean product (now becomming harder to find ...well round here anyhow ) could be a good cleaning agent

i would hesitate about sitting the injectors in acetone and such for any long time ...you may just find the stuff will melt the electric terminal consolidation with disasterous results

if you can find a ultrasonic bath ...you may have some good results with the vibration from it

again check with alby for this sort of thing ...

(ps ill try and find that thread on the injector cleaning process again ....have a feeling that there are some pics in the "workshop day" thread ) edit ...ooops was called service day here https://www.k100-forum.com/t3319-service-day

currently building a sequencing injector excersizer here ....a thing that pulses the set of injectors one after the other with out applying too much "on time " durring the process

you can pulse the injectors with a clip lead and a nine volt battery .....just dont hold the power on for more than a second in every ten

hope that helps mate

I'm not sure that this is any help at this point, But I had the standard black tarry fuel tank with a deteriorated pump insulator, etc.......ended up replacing the entire tank due to corrosion leaks. With the new fuel pump & hoses, etc.....the bike ran well with no service at all to the injectors. I'm still running the original FPR as well.
It seems though, that the majority find the injectors clogged & not working after a similar event.
I just thought, you might want to give the injectors a try before pulling them out.....might just get lucky as I did.

Yeh I will do that I was looking too far ahead so I wouldn't think about cleaning the tank.The sh-one-t is coming off slowly, just removed the special high flow filter.

There's actually a very good post here somewhere on how to carefully un-crimp & disassemble the fuel pump carefully and clean & re-assemble it. (Maybe by CrazyFrog?)....not sure If you are handy & a little bit lucky, you'll get that pump turning again.
I made a few mistakes on the last one I looked into......I had not read the post. I got mine back together & working but unfortunately I must have reversed the positions of the permanent field magnets inside because it will only run in the correct direction if the wires are connected reverse polarity. Also, I damaged the top a bit being careless getting it open so it had to be sealed up with JB weld.
So it's only good for a tester, now.
From the benefit of OUR experiences and some patience, you may be able to rework yours.
Try that before you buy your new parts. You will definitely need a new rubber isolator. You may be able to salvage the plastic retainer clip. You'll need new (correct) submersible high pressure in tank hoses, a new filter and a lower strainer basket. Be sure to get the correct basket (different sizes + some have a hose connector on the basket, some don't) depends on which tank you have.
Be also prepared that the new pump isolator assy. is quite "stout". I had to really apply some pressure with a wooden stick and a soft hammer to force it down hard enough to get the plastic clips to engage the tank shelf opening.
Once the tank is all assembled inside, You need a couple of new external hoses. The one from the fuel pressure regulator (behind the air filter box) and the return port at the tank is "pre-formed" best to get that from BMW. The hose from the tank outlet to the fuel rail and from the fuel rail around to the pressure regulator can be standard hose that is RATED for fuel injection pressure. I got that from BMW as well. When installing those, Leave them as much too long as possible to make removal of the tank next time easier. You'll have it on & off several times.
NOTE: If you haven't done so yet,
#1 get a can of De-Oxit-5.
#2 disassemble, wire brush/clean, etc the stack of tan brown wires stacked on a bolt into the Left side of the frame backbone directly under the tank.
#3 Find & de-oxit the 2 pin connector just behind the right side battery cover panal that feeds the rear wheel speedometer signal up towards the instrument cluster.
#4 find, open, deoxit & clean the connector under the tank from the IGN switch and the one from the kill switch.
#5 remove all 7 fuses from the fuse panel under the left hand battery side cover and clean & de-oxit those receptacles and fuse blades. Check/test the fuses and reinstall at the correct values 7.5's & 15's.

Don't waste a ton of money on fancy fuses with led "blown indicators".
Don't buy a K & N re washable air filter. The one you have will likely run longer than you do. Caution, it only goes in the box one way
CAUTION: when disassembling the Air filter box, after unclipping the 3 snaps, Loosen the band clamp way back in there at the BIG end only......twist the cover slightly to loosen it from the injector plenum, slide the filter cartridge out, then pull the box top out with the air elbow fitting still attached to it. (You can not disassemble the small end from the box unless the airflow meter inside the box top is removed first.
Pull the box top/air duct assy. out the right side and tie it up & back out of the way still connected to it's wiring.
Now you can remove the 2 BIG bolts holding the bottom of the box down to the engine & remove it.
NOTE the 2 washers under the box as well as the 2 inside.
Now you have room to work on the fuel hoses and breather hose, + inspect & test the fan to see that it turns freely and hot wire it to see it run & listen for squeaky noises etc.......service if needed.
It's very difficult to get the "C" shaped wire retainer loose from the wire connector on the coolant temperature sensor.......but it can be done with a small set of sharp picks. Once loose, remove the connector & do the Deoxit tricks. Be sure to get the wire retainer thingy reinstalled correctly on the wire plug before reconnecting it to the sensor.
As long as you have the bottom of the air filter box out, now is the time to replace the S shaped crankcase breather hose just inside of and behind the injector manifold fuel rail.
You may end up going back in later to replace the rubber boots between the Air intake plenum chamber and the top of the throttle bodies + the plastic/rubber manifold flanges below the throttle bodies, but it's prudent to wait until running to test for leaks there.

That's enough to keep you busy over the weekend.......check with me later with findings/questions
regards, ibj...

Hey Waz, I understand Halo is a whizz at redoing fuel pimps. Be nice to him. I've just had my airbox off a couple of times and redone my hoses so any idiot can do it.
RT

RT wrote: I've just had my airbox off a couple of times and redone my hoses so any idiot can do it.
RT

Don't be so hard on yourself RT. You are not just any idiot.

Ibjman's suggestions are spot on. I've only just recently been there, removed the radiator and the air box (both top and bottom) Was going to replace the fuel hoses that lurk there, but they are still in quite an acceptable condition. I must admit, one thing that Ibjman omitted was the throttle cable. I bought a spare when I first acquired the K. With the air box and radiator removed, it's a piece of cake to replace, but it'd be a bit of a nightmare to replace out the back of Meekathara somewhere.

Ibjman hopes that Ulrich hasn't just "jinxed" him. Jman's old 85 rs is still running with the throttle cable it came with or at least the one that was installed when near new by a BMW recall. Ibjman is leaving in July for the BMW rally 1200 miles away in Salem Oregon........Hmmmmm.............I've never seen a K100 T/cable fail. If this one goes to pot during that journey, I', blaming it on Ulrich!!!!

never say never

just you havent seen it ....yet

I had one go on me and rode all the way home 160km using the high idle was a bit slow up the hills but would just make 90kph on the flat.

where specifically did it fail rick? (Not the spot on the map, but the spot on the cable)......lol

The cable broke at the nipple on the lower end. It probably had been bent at the point so it was easy to get into the slot or it may have bent getting it in there and that makes a point where it is always flexing.
The PO is a nice guy but mechanicaly inept and insists in doing his own maintenance.
When I bought the K from him he said it had no compression on 2 cylinders and when I checked it out 2 exhaust valves were a bit crispy. I asked when the last time he did the shims and his reply "the what" need I say more.

Tank clean and waiting for filter to re asemble.
New pump, hose and filter.


Ran out of things to clean waiting for parts to arrive.

Make a quick triple check to see that the "head" of the hose clamp on the top of the #4 intake rubber pipe (below the throttle body).......has sufficient clearance for the throttle linkage cam, arm or whatever protrudes out the back side there to clear the screw head on the clamp when the throttle opens and closes.
After a scary ride with a throttle that would not return to idle by myself and at least 1 other user here.....it was discovered that after replacing stuff there, that it obstructs the return of the throttle linkage.
To be on the safe side (after the second try), I ended up rotating the clamp around about 60 degrees so the hose clamp screw head was directly in the front and up almost against the fuel injector nozzle. No chance of a problem there now,
Regards, ibj....

I always put the screw heads on #1 & #2 facing eachother and as far round to the back as possible while they can still be tightened from the front and same for #3 & #4 it's the only place that it wont interfere with throttle opening and more important closing.

I'm not sure where we dis-agree on this???
My point was, not to have #4 in the back because of some obstruction with the (end of the throttle leaver or cam?) there. I suggested putting the clamp in the front where it does lightly touch the back side of #4 nozzle but is well clear of all the throttle linkage.
Thanks, ibj...

Looking at the top of the TB the screw would be at the 10.30 position maybe a bit more, well out of the way but still accessible from the front using a deep 7mm socket and extension with a screwdriver handle put in crosswise across the front of #3 TB

I understand where the oem position is.
Apparently you have not come across the issue that I and Alh.... both experienced when the back side of the linkage on the front side of the #4 throttle body, did indeed hang up on that screw head while closing. I'm not sure exactly what part is right there.....maybe it has some bearing on the High idle cam assy......at any rate it is indeed there right by the head of the clamp screw and it does have the potential to obstruct.
Yours......ibj...

I have had it happen to me but only when I started it in the cave and thats when I found about pushing them as far round as possible or at least get them out of the way of the throttle linkage which is the real important bit. Throttles do have a habit of causing bum puckering moments.

Tank finished, new everything in tank. Changed engine oil and filter and oiled the the cyclinders through spark plug holes then put in 5th gear and gently turned back wheel, it moved to my releif not seized.
Have cleaned all electrical conections and replaced coolant, air filter all fuel lines and spark plugs.
Waiting on parts again.

looking good there waz

Looking good Waz, ready to fire up. Just need some dry weather, 16 inches last measured here over 5 days, I'm not game to go out yet.
RT

If it doesn't stop raining today we will have to start building an ARK

PO said hall sensor was faulty so I relaced the hall effect sensors with J car sensors and tried to start but no go, had spark at spark plugs so pulled out injectors and found all are blocked. One injector has 1 K ohm the other three are 16 ohm. I think I replaced  good sensors and the miss was due to high resistance in one injector. BMW Wollongong wanted $550 for one injector, I got a used one sent from Bega for $35.00 delivered to the door. Have all new seals and filters for injectors and have bathed them in ultrasonic cleaner but stil blocked. Cleaned the outside OK. I have the injectors soaking in petrol and hoping it softens the crap.



Before


After

Hey Waz, I have 4 injectors that are working.
They may not be working as good as they could but they do work.
Can put them in a bag and send them down for you to try.

Thanks Mate
I will try and clean these again on weekend, If still no good I will give you a ring.

Waz, I have some here as well, give me a shout. I'll be snowed in this weekend by the look but can throw them
down the hill to you
RT

Thanks Bob
your a bit closer than Rosko. I will be in contact with you, I think these are too gummed up. about two hours in total in the cleaner now and a week in petrol.

Waz I have a set of injectors here too which do work reasonably well....I confirmed that they have all the same specifications as the original Bosch injectors but these are way cheaper.....
What are they from you ask....the single cam Hyundai Excel injectors work great and easy to find..I bought 4 for $50 still on a rail....they proved that they work but they did bleed down so new ones would be heaps better.
Short story you can have these or get some local as they work well.
cheers Klompy

Thanks Klompy
I finaly gat a trickle out of them then a solid squirt, I have put them back in petrol untill tomorrow and hoping for them to spray tommorrow.
I got my little boy on the polisher. At least it will look good.

good to hear you are moving forward Waz,
did you apply any specific polishing paste ?
great effort mate.

Jiff from the kitchen cupboard

Don't forget that last internal 1 1/2 inches of the pipe, otherwise people like me will mention it at some appropriate moment.

Thanks for the injector offers. I got the other three clean and spaying nicely. I have refitted injectors and tried to start, no go again just back fires.

So, you are now sure that the fuel system is all working.
 
Forgive me if I'm not up to date on the earlier posts........but if you have not removed EVERY DROP of old fuel.......do that before moving on........use new fuel and use regular, not premium.

 I need to read back and see what's been said about the coils.
 Hopefully.....more later......Regards, Ibj...

It started, I have mounted the bottom hall sensor at the top of the plate and the bottom sensor at the top. I just spun the plate 180 deg to see what happened and it started. Now I will remount the buggers the correct way.

 
I'm a dumb rs

I ment to say top sensor mounted at the bottom and bottom sensor mounted at the top.

It blows a little smoke would be an understatment, but no rattles or nasty noises and now ideling smoothly no vibtations. I'm very happy. Wife wants to call firebregade.

 

good result waz ....nice work !
 ...a good run will scavenge out all that sticky oil

Thanks Charlie
Need to do front brakes next, where did you get yours?

the 'bins mate
works out about $50-80  cheaper than local supply and no real waiting (wish the freight costs were like 2 years ago, much cheaper )

btw I have a couple of warped disks here ...but the centres should be ok for anybody doing the refit path

Waz wrote:It blows a little smoke would be an understatment, but no rattles or nasty noises and now ideling smoothly no vibtations. I'm very happy. Wife wants to call firebregade.

 

 That's beautiful Wazza it brings a tear to my eyes....

smoke is entirely expected on the restart. It may smoke for several miles until it gradually clears.

 Also, at a different time......down the road ......if you park it on the side stand when it's warm, it may smoke like crazy on the restart........not every time but occasionally.........depending on where the pistons happen to come to rest when it was shut off.
It may smoke a LOT.....enough to scare you into thinking there was something gone really bad.......but it's normal on this model.
 Regards, Ibjman

Congrats Waz, I know that feeling well. Good job, and that smoke is a welcome sight to see. Mine stopped smoking after I ran it round the paddock a few times.
RT