Hi I'm glad to see so many K100 owners who shares their experience!
Well, here is my issue:
My brake light is always ON. I have the Clymer service repair maintenance manual which kind of helped me for troubleshooting, but I found it weak in regard with electrical snags.
Here is the trouble shooting that I have performed so far but now I'm stuck:
1- when I start the engine, the brake warning light is on (normal), and with only the pressure of the rear brake pedal, the warning light flashes, (not normal) should require the front brake action.
2- Removing fuse F1, and brake light stays on. (not normal)
3- Emergency engine cut off swith at off, brake light stays on. (not normal)
4- Remove bulb monitoring unit, brake light stays on. (not normal, I think)
5- Turn ignition swith to park position, brake light goes off (normal)

I'm thinking to open and give good inspection inside the bulb monitoring unit and if required resolder any defective solder joints, but I'm sure that this will not fix my problem.
Any of you have an idea of how to rectify this problem. I'm so proud riding this bike but this is a safety hazard issue.

Regards
PS please excuse me if you find error in the text, but I'm a good living French Canadian...lol

Greenmachine61

Hey your English is perfect!

I don't believe that your bulb monitoring unit is the cause of the problem.
The front and back brake switch feed the bulb monitoring unit. The monitoring unit feeds the brake light.
You said that even if the unit is disconnected, the brake light is still ON.
I never seen or heard the bulb monitoring light flashing.
I don't have experience on the latest K100, and unless they changed the wiring, it seems to be a short on a wire somewhere.

If the green/yellow wire is shorted, the common ground (brown) between the tail light and the stop light could conduct the +12v. It's the equivalent of the 2 bulbs wired in series.
Remove the bulb monitoring unit, remove the tail light and stop light and check with an Ohmmeter that the green/yellow wire is not grounded.

Bert (another Canadian frog :-) )

Hi Crazy Frog,
Well in the owner manual it says that you have to press both brakes to de-activate the warnig brake light. Once you have pressed both brake swithes, then this warning light get synchro with the red ABS flashing indicator. When the bike reach 4 km/h, then the ABS and Warning lights goes off.

The hic, is that I don't have to activate the front brake to remove the brake warning light. I will diagnose this later

But right now I will perform the ohm check that you suggest and it should reveal some interresting findings...lol

Merci beaucoup Folle Grenouille!!! (Bertrand)
Thanks a lot Crazy Frog!

One thing that could be interesting to check is the front brake switch. The plunger is only plastic and it has the tendency to wear and get stocked.

Are you a member of the BMW club of Quebec?
For 3 years I was organizing the Quebec-NS meeting in Grand Falls. This year, we had a problems with the site reservation and had to cancel the event. Next year it will be on again.

Bert

Hi Bert,
I forgot to tell that I've checked the brake switch and that the plunger is in metal material! What a surprise! I guess that the first owner, I'm the third and the second owner kept it only for two years, replaced it with a better model.
This switch is working well.

I've checked the BMW Quebec club web site but I didn't joined yet.

Denis

Hi Bert,
The snag is temporary fixed,
The Grey Red wire was shorting to the 12v green line.
I pulled the Grey Red wire and the trouble went out.
Since I didn't fully removed the gaz tank, I was not able to follow this wire routing.
This weekend I will replace this wire and perform a good visual inspection of all the wires.

By the way, when both brake switches have being activated, the red hazard light flashes in syncrho with the Red ABS light.
Again thanks a lot for your input on this trouble.
PS I will post my bike picture shortly. It's a beauty...

Regards,
Denis

Glad to hear that your security hazard is temporarily fixed.
Somebody has to give me a late RS model in order to study the difference between the early K and the latest one (not a chance!)
you are on the good track to fix your problem.

Glad that we could help.

Cheers

Bert