1 Liam from Ireland and living in New Zealand Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:43 pm
DannyBoy1798
active member
Hi everyone, am a new Kbike owner and have lots of questions but for now an just looking.
Last edited by Chocolate on Sat Apr 22, 2017 8:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
Hi Chocolate,
Hi Olaf,92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Hi DannyBoy,
Glad to see the Bricks are calling.....
Anyway you have come to the right place. Greetings from the Rebel County.
Don't be afraid to ask any questions, everyone is very helpful and advice is freely available.
Hi Born Again,Born Again Eccentric wrote:Welcome Liam,
You're a long way from home, but in nice part of the world that I have yet to visit (I've got a good friend and some rellies in Christchurch, so it's only a of matter of time - and money).
What bike did you get? It is helpful to add your bike details to your signature block (model and year, but VIN is useful too)- that way, when you do need advice, members will be able to be a little more specific. While our illustrious founder, Crazy Frog, started this forum for K100's - you will quickly notice that it attracts all sorts K100 LT, RT & RS's (2 & 4 valve), K75's, K1100's, K1200's and even a few odd Ducati owners (having had a K something interest somewhen).
Anyway, enjoy...
Hi Olaf,92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I just did those jobs and no need to open the gearbox. Done the exact same job a few weeks back. Do the gearbox seals too. Get new exhaust studs and nuts and gaskets you are likely to need them. Also take off bell housing and sprag clutch for a clean.
I did:
Rear main seal and flywheel O ring
Gearbox input and output seals
Clutch friction plate and new clutch bolts, flywheel nut
Clutch pivot bearings, pivot pin and circlips
Driveshaft boot and clutch pushrod boot and their clips
Gear position indicator switch and gasket, mine was kaput but you can clean them, do it while you are there.
Alternator monkey nuts [I didn't do mine, did them in 2014 and they were fine].
Exhaust nuts, studs, gaskets
Lubed splines.
I did get the clutch pushrod seal but didn't put it in as the old one was ok. this is tricky one, if it goes wrong you end up with a seal in the gearbox and a gearbox opening up to get it out.
Condition of most of the parts was not good and justified new ones rather than mucking around trying to clean and repair them. All the boots were broken and wasn't held up for any parts.
The good thing was that so much oil was leaking that the splines were all in very good nick!
Hi Richard,KiwiK100 wrote:Hey Liam, welcome to the site. I am in Wanaka and have 3 bricks plus all the 'special' tools you will need like clutch entering etc. Happy to lend these to you if needed plus lots of advice for the asking as I've also done all the seals and O rings etc on all three bricks.
At the moment Motobins UK is the best for parts as the GBP rates well agains the NZD. A mate of mine has K75S parts available too. PM me if you want his name and contact details. You definitely need to get the Clymer manual before working on these bikes. Available on Trademe but again, better value through Motobins.
Richard
Hi Olaf,92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:That's a really nice offer from Richard and worth quite a few beers!
As for parts I got all mine in a single on line order from Motobins. Motorworks were considerably more expensive and also didn't have some of the parts. Motobins were very efficient and no complaint at all. Make sure that you pick up the necessary gaskets and O rings too.
We didn't encounter problems as WD40 was used liberally and my friend had done loads of them before. Check on your swing arm bushes, they should be ok but check them out.
A jack under the engine sump, tie down the front of the bike very securely and I mean securely but then you must put a piece of wood under the rear wheel at the same angle to avoid misalignment, you can then as a two man job pull the whole rear end off backwards along the wood track as a single assembly, centre stand stays on the gear box as it comes back. You can then probably work most of the rest on your own.
Drain the transmission and final drive before you start........so the oil doesn't dribble out the vents and destroy the place!
Do sprag clutch clean when you are in there even if you think you don't need it.
I do have a Clymer and it is essential reading.
Before you order parts take a ride and be sure things like the gear position indicator switch are working ok and if not get yourself a new one. The old one can go as a spare if needed. Not a big difficulty to check the alternator monkey nuts either, its worth it in case you don't need them although Motobins are not expensive for them.
Hi Dai,Dai wrote:
Hi 88,88 wrote:Fair play Liam, greetings from the mid Wesht!
I hope you're getting Christchurch back on it's feet after the quake. Visted there in a past life and loved it. Still have relations native to the place there. Smashing roads for biking - I'm a bit envious!
Hi Olaf,92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:You don't open the gearbox to do the input and output seals, they are done from outside. I just decided to do them as they were cheap.
The clutch pushrod goes through the gear box with a seal. I did get this one but its tricky because if it goes wrong it ends up inside the gearbox which has to be opened to get it out. If its good just leave it.
Transmission oil has a very distinctive smell and colour.
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