Hi everyone, am a new Kbike owner and have lots of questions but for now an just looking.

Hello Liam, welcome here!

What kind of K are you riding?
Picture would be great :-)

Besides that, the forum is full of knowledge.
Enjoy your rides.

Cheers from Germany 

What is this waffle in Christchurch?
Is there ice cream inside ?

Hi DannyBoy,

Glad to see the Bricks are calling.....

Anyway you have come to the right place. Greetings from the Rebel County.

Don't be afraid to ask any questions, everyone is very helpful and advice is freely available.

Welcome Liam,

You're a long way from home, but in nice part of the world that I have yet to visit (I've got a good friend and some rellies in Christchurch, so it's only a of matter of time - and money).

What bike did you get? It is helpful to add your bike details to your signature block (model and year, but VIN is useful too)- that way, when you do need advice, members will be able to be a little more specific. While our illustrious founder, Crazy Frog, started this forum for K100's - you will quickly notice that it attracts all sorts K100 LT, RT & RS's (2 & 4 valve), K75's, K1100's, K1200's and even a few odd Ducati owners (having had a K something interest somewhen). 

Anyway, enjoy...

Chocolate wrote:Hello Liam, welcome here!

What kind of K are you riding?
Picture would be great :-)

Besides that, the forum is full of knowledge.
Enjoy your rides.

Cheers from Germany 

What is this waffle in Christchurch?
Is there ice cream inside ?

Hi Chocolate,
I got an 88 K75C in black with the red pinstripe and what a beauty to ride. It looks like Germany is the place to get parts, pity I don't speak German!

Cheers,


Liam

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Hi DannyBoy,

Glad to see the Bricks are calling.....

Anyway you have come to the right place. Greetings from the Rebel County.

Don't be afraid to ask any questions, everyone is very helpful and advice is freely available.

Hi Olaf,
Yes we all know about bricks flying in Ireland! I do have quite a few questions after removing the gear box for the dreaded spline lube. It looks like I have an oil leak from the output shaft oil seal. Can this be replaced without opening the gearbox? Also, it looks like I have a leak in the final drive that seeps into the drive shaft, is this major surgery?

Sláinte,




Liam 

Born Again Eccentric wrote:Welcome Liam,

You're a long way from home, but in nice part of the world that I have yet to visit (I've got a good friend and some rellies in Christchurch, so it's only a of matter of time - and money).

What bike did you get? It is helpful to add your bike details to your signature block (model and year, but VIN is useful too)- that way, when you do need advice, members will be able to be a little more specific. While our illustrious founder, Crazy Frog, started this forum for K100's - you will quickly notice that it attracts all sorts K100 LT, RT & RS's (2 & 4 valve), K75's, K1100's, K1200's and even a few odd Ducati owners (having had a K something interest somewhen). 

Anyway, enjoy...

Hi Born Again,
Yes I'm so far from home that if I went any further, I'd be on the way back! I live in Christchurch and it's starting to get better now after the earthquakes. I got an 88 K75C and after taking everything apart I discovered an oil leak from the gearbox output shaft seal and the final drive is leaking, or so I think. I also need a new 20 tooth driveshaft. So all part of the fun and games with K bikes but I'll sort it our and be riding it soon I hope.


Cheers,


Liam

I just did those jobs and no need to open the gearbox. Done the exact same job a few weeks back. Do the gearbox seals too. Get new exhaust studs and nuts and gaskets you are likely to need them. Also take off bell housing and sprag clutch for a clean.

I did:
Rear main seal and flywheel O ring
Gearbox input and output seals
Clutch friction plate and new clutch bolts, flywheel nut
Clutch pivot bearings, pivot pin and circlips
Driveshaft boot and clutch pushrod boot and their clips
Gear position indicator switch and gasket, mine was kaput but you can clean them, do it while you are there.
Alternator monkey nuts [I didn't do mine, did them in 2014 and they were fine].
Exhaust nuts, studs, gaskets
Lubed splines.
I did get the clutch pushrod seal but didn't put it in as the old one was ok. this is tricky one, if it goes wrong you end up with a seal in the gearbox and a gearbox opening up to get it out.

Condition of most of the parts was not good and justified new ones rather than mucking around trying to clean and repair them. All the boots were broken and wasn't held up for any parts.

The good thing was that so much oil was leaking that the splines were all in very good nick!

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I just did those jobs and no need to open the gearbox. Done the exact same job a few weeks back. Do the gearbox seals too. Get new exhaust studs and nuts and gaskets you are likely to need them. Also take off bell housing and sprag clutch for a clean.

I did:
Rear main seal and flywheel O ring
Gearbox input and output seals
Clutch friction plate and new clutch bolts, flywheel nut
Clutch pivot bearings, pivot pin and circlips
Driveshaft boot and clutch pushrod boot and their clips
Gear position indicator switch and gasket, mine was kaput but you can clean them, do it while you are there.
Alternator monkey nuts [I didn't do mine, did them in 2014 and they were fine].
Exhaust nuts, studs, gaskets
Lubed splines.
I did get the clutch pushrod seal but didn't put it in as the old one was ok. this is tricky one, if it goes wrong you end up with a seal in the gearbox and a gearbox opening up to get it out.

Condition of most of the parts was not good and justified new ones rather than mucking around trying to clean and repair them. All the boots were broken and wasn't held up for any parts.

The good thing was that so much oil was leaking that the splines were all in very good nick!

Hi Olaf,
Is there a particular procedure I should follow to to get the output shaft seal out and put the new one in or do I just dig it out without touching the mating surfaces? 

Cheers,


Liam

Mine was extracted using the old screws in the side of seal and pull it out trick. It was the original brown seal, not sure what might be in your K75 as its much newer.

I was strongly advised to get original BMW seals by someone who does quite happily use other OEM parts and knows the Ks intimately having worked on them for years. The clutch plate was Sachs who are well know makers of clutches.

The most amazing part was that at 2.30pm I rode the bike onto the bench. At 3.30pm the clutch was in my hand and we were at the seal. But as I said it was all new bits going back in and made it much easier. In fact very few of the original clips came out in good condition. The clutch bolts are supposed to be a single use stretch bolt but seemingly some folk reuse them. As I had them in hand I put the new ones in.

Before you go at it wall its worth cleaning on front of the swing arm. The advice is normally not to do that but that's because you risk water damaging or going past seals. However you are taking all these out and renewing fluids so cleaning it with a spray and some detergent or Gunk or such like [I still don't use MucOff on a motorbike] in there before dismantling makes the job a bit cleaner.

My swing arm was good and no replacement there but WD40 on everything to come off over a long period before hand paid off handsomely.

Fair play Liam, greetings from the mid Wesht! 

I hope you're getting Christchurch back on it's feet after the quake. Visted there in a past life and loved it. Still have relations native to the place there. Smashing roads for biking - I'm a bit envious!

Hey Liam, welcome to the site. I am in Wanaka and have 3 bricks plus all the 'special' tools you will need like clutch entering etc. Happy to lend these to you if needed plus lots of advice for the asking as I've also done all the seals and O rings etc on all three bricks. 
At the moment Motobins UK is the best for parts as the GBP rates well agains the NZD. A mate of mine has K75S parts available too. PM me if you want his name and contact details. You definitely need to get the Clymer manual before working on these bikes. Available on Trademe but again, better value through Motobins. 
Richard

That's a really nice offer from Richard and worth quite a few beers!

As for parts I got all mine in a single on line order from Motobins. Motorworks were considerably more expensive and also didn't have some of the parts. Motobins were very efficient and no complaint at all. Make sure that you pick up the necessary gaskets and O rings too.

We didn't encounter problems as WD40 was used liberally and my friend had done loads of them before. Check on your swing arm bushes, they should be ok but check them out.

A jack under the engine sump, tie down the front of the bike very securely and I mean securely but then you must put a piece of wood under the rear wheel at the same angle to avoid misalignment, you can then as a two man job pull the whole rear end off backwards along the wood track as a single assembly, centre stand stays on the gear box as it comes back. You can then probably work most of the rest on your own.

Drain the transmission and final drive before you start........so the oil doesn't dribble out the vents and destroy the place! 

Do sprag clutch clean when you are in there even if you think you don't need it.

I do have a Clymer and it is essential reading.

Before you order parts take a ride and be sure things like the gear position indicator switch are working ok and if not get yourself a new one. The old one can go as a spare if needed. Not a big difficulty to check the alternator monkey nuts either, its worth it in case you don't need them although Motobins are not expensive for them.

KiwiK100 wrote:Hey Liam, welcome to the site. I am in Wanaka and have 3 bricks plus all the 'special' tools you will need like clutch entering etc. Happy to lend these to you if needed plus lots of advice for the asking as I've also done all the seals and O rings etc on all three bricks. 
At the moment Motobins UK is the best for parts as the GBP rates well agains the NZD. A mate of mine has K75S parts available too. PM me if you want his name and contact details. You definitely need to get the Clymer manual before working on these bikes. Available on Trademe but again, better value through Motobins. 
Richard

Hi Richard,
Thanks for getting in touch, I do have a few questions so I'll send you a message through the the site.


Cheers,


Liam

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:That's a really nice offer from Richard and worth quite a few beers!

As for parts I got all mine in a single on line order from Motobins. Motorworks were considerably more expensive and also didn't have some of the parts. Motobins were very efficient and no complaint at all. Make sure that you pick up the necessary gaskets and O rings too.

We didn't encounter problems as WD40 was used liberally and my friend had done loads of them before. Check on your swing arm bushes, they should be ok but check them out.

A jack under the engine sump, tie down the front of the bike very securely and I mean securely but then you must put a piece of wood under the rear wheel at the same angle to avoid misalignment, you can then as a two man job pull the whole rear end off backwards along the wood track as a single assembly, centre stand stays on the gear box as it comes back. You can then probably work most of the rest on your own.

Drain the transmission and final drive before you start........so the oil doesn't dribble out the vents and destroy the place! 

Do sprag clutch clean when you are in there even if you think you don't need it.

I do have a Clymer and it is essential reading.

Before you order parts take a ride and be sure things like the gear position indicator switch are working ok and if not get yourself a new one. The old one can go as a spare if needed. Not a big difficulty to check the alternator monkey nuts either, its worth it in case you don't need them although Motobins are not expensive for them.

Hi Olaf,
The gearbox is out and I'm waiting for a used final drive from a US eBay seller and a used driveshaft for a New Zealand bike wrecker. Apart from a little confusion over whether or not the gearbox output shaft to the driveshaft is actually leaking or not, the bike is in good shape. What I thought was an oil leak may actually be a mixture of oil (making it's way up from the final drive), water (getting in from the swingarm boot) and the moly-type grease all mixed together. All other gearbox shafts and seals are in very good condition. On this basis I'd really rather not open the gearbox so hopefully the output shaft seal can go in with opening it??

Do you think that my theory on what initially looked like an oil leak from the gearbox output shaft seal could actually be a combination of other factors as mentioned above?

Cheers,

Liam

(From the Model County)

Dai wrote:

Hi Dai,
Yes it's good to be here and it looks like a treasure trove of info, yeehaa!

Cheers,


Liam

88 wrote:Fair play Liam, greetings from the mid Wesht! 

I hope you're getting Christchurch back on it's feet after the quake. Visted there in a past life and loved it. Still have relations native to the place there. Smashing roads for biking - I'm a bit envious!

Hi 88,
Yes Christchurch getting back on its feet now and starting to look good again. There are plenty of Irish here at the moment and I'm sure that there's a lot from the "Mid-Wesht" as I often her them asking for sangwitchs!

Cheers,


Liam

You don't open the gearbox to do the input and output seals, they are done from outside. I just decided to do them as they were cheap.

The clutch pushrod goes through the gear box with a seal. I did get this one but its tricky because if it goes wrong it ends up inside the gearbox which has to be opened to get it out. If its good just leave it.

Transmission oil has a very distinctive smell and colour.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:You don't open the gearbox to do the input and output seals, they are done from outside. I just decided to do them as they were cheap.

The clutch pushrod goes through the gear box with a seal. I did get this one but its tricky because if it goes wrong it ends up inside the gearbox which has to be opened to get it out. If its good just leave it.

Transmission oil has a very distinctive smell and colour.

Hi Olaf,
It's amazing how immediately obvious some things are as soon as someone else points them out! Thanks for the tip on the smell of transmission oil, I'll check it out when I when I get home.

Cheers,


Liam

If you were ever in one of those old back street workshops the smell was usually of transmission oil.

Grey and smells is generally from transmission.

Black will be from the engine.

My rear engine seal was gone but what prompted me was the transmission oil coming out the clutch pushrod boot destroying the place and possibly running the gearbox dry.

Just done an engine oil change yesterday, warding off any potential sprag clutch problems with more frequent oil changes.

The only tricky moment I met in the job....getting the old clutch pivot bearings out.

There is a shoulder inside that makes it impossible to drive them out from the opposite side.

Had to tack weld onto the outer races to get them out. The inner race and needles came out/broke out ok but the outer race no way. When you see the new bearings they are like pressed stainless steel, very thin.