Trouble shooting - Original K-100
Put a voltmeter from the engine block to the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition switch on. Normal reading here would be zero volts. If you have any voltage there your ground is bad.
Next take a reading from pin 30 of the starter relay to the engine block. Should have nominal 12 volts there.
Next take a reading from fuse 5 to the engine block. You should have nominal 12 volts there.
Now pin 30 of the ignition switch...You should have nominal 12 volts there.
Turn the switch on - check pin 15 from the ignition switch to the engine block. Switch on you should have nominal 12 volts there.
Ignition switch on (Well, turn it off while you dismantle the handlebar switch) take the R/H grip apart and look for 12 volts on both terminals if the kill switch is on. If you have voltage here something should light up.
It's just trouble shooting. Go one step at a time and take your time.
Wiring diagram, If you don't have it it's possible to download a copy, just google it.
If the bike hasn't been properly stored (left outside for an extended period) corrosion can cause any number of electric maladies that can set in with the switch gear, connectors, anything. It can turn into a real Easter egg hunt.
My K-100RT I bought new, it's always been stored indoors high and dry. Never had a problem with it, well, one, the speedometer, but I digress, recently bought a K-100RS, didn't run. Sat outside in a car port along the pacific coast, bike didn't look to bad, but the connectors, switch gear, and wiring harness was a mess. I had to go through that one wire at a time. Trouble was traced to the fuel injection computer, at one time someone had removed and discarded the plastic cover, moisture got in, connector corroded to the point I had to completely replace the computer module. $400 later, a pull off with no guarantee ..but it's a grand more to go new...it worked. Ran then.
- John