I have a "silly" question,since I have just started driving the brick,and that is regarding the sparkplugs,since last time I had a big bike in Europe it was a 750 sportsbike,and I had to get rid of it since it demanded me to drive it with quite high RPM ever so often,and since my driving style is somehow more relaxed since I tend to spend a lot of time on Royal Enfields,and since I didnt give it 9000 + RPM it kept sooting/clogging the sparks etc...

So I wonder what is the expected style of driving in relation to RPM on the K100-RT,and is this something I have to consider while driving my BMW ?!?

Ks don't tend to soot up the plugs, just make sure to have the right ones in. Use the revs, you will be nicely surprised.

Welcome!  I also have a somewhat sedate driving style, it's probably why I have lasted so long without any serious injury to myself or my machines.

I do most of my riding with the engine running between 2500 and 4500 rpm.  My plugs do show some signs of carbon when I check them, but so far I have yet to notice any faults in the running of the engine. 

I have three K bikes, and two have temperature gauges.  The temperatures on those bikes are identical and slightly below the reading described in the manuals so I suspect either the thermostats are opening too much or the gauges are reading too low.  The temperature is not significantly below normal, so I am not concerned enough yet to start tearing into things.

Thank's for the replay =) 
I feel the bike to be both ready for some serious "rev'ing" and the more laidback riding style of my own,I will find out after I have had my check-up in Germany next week....Autobahn next....

Make sure not to have the oil level too high as that can cause other problems. The sight glass red dot is the level, but make sure you do not go above the red circle. Since the bike is new to you there is no way of knowing if it uses any oil so keep a good eye on it. Ks don't necessarily use much oil and I rarely need to add any. A blast of blue smoke on start up is not a sign of trouble, its a sign of normality. Due to the design if you park on side stand oil gets into the combustion chamber. If you are going to be leaving bike on side stand turn engine off before you lean the bike over and that helps reduce the blue puff.

Like Point Seven Five most of my riding is in that rev range too but I get on the motorway often enough. A K is a different animal if you let it up through the gears. It will sit all day at 5,500 - 6,000 rpm and you will feel you can do it all day too. They are mile munchers too. You will enjoy the autobahn although my last experience on them was so much traffic we didn't get about 100kmh!

A very important place to lubricate. Your clutch lever has a pivot pin and when you pull the clutch lever you will see the cable and the nipple on the end. The nipple is suppose to rotate as you pull the lever. A drop of lubricating oil on that nipple is important, also check the cable at that point is ok and undamaged. Probably worth putting a new cable in when you are doing a service, and by the way the nipple does not come with the cable so you must get that separately. If it does break there the nipple will fall out and be lost....

Let us know what tyres are on the RT too....you will see the date on the side of them as a 4 digit number.

Some K100s [not the K75] get a vibration around 4,000rpm. Interestingly my 84 RT does not have this and is silky smooth all the way in the same way as a K75 I tried out recently. Its one of the reasons I chose to keep and do so much work to it.

I find that just chugging around town you tend to get some soot build up due to the unleaded fuel but once out on the highway and at 4000rpm they should burn much cleaner.

Don't let it sit at idle or "warm it up" before riding. Just start it and ride. (As mentioned in the owner manual.)

K75s are even worse than K100s for plug fouling if idled for too long.

I started my 89 k100lt from cold twice recently just for a minute,  to show a couple of guys who happened to be passing my garage whilst I was cleaning her. 

She was a real pig to fire up the day after on both occasions.

Mutter mutter mutter, I must try reading the manual sometime...

As Duck says, do not let her idle until thoroughly warmed up, just start her, then ride straight away.

I also agree with Olaf, inspecting and  lubricating every aspect of  clutch actuation , including the pesky actuating arm , together with the correct clutch adjustment,  will result in a smooth and surprisingly light clutch action which you will benefit from during town trips.

My K is as wonderful around town as she is at higher revs on the motorways.

My riding style is the same as Point-Seven-Five with regards to Longevity , but now and again when the road is clear from Idiots and plod, I will wind her up through the gears, just to remind myself of what lies below..

K bikes are up there with the best in my view. 

Enjoy her 

Bob

Riders new to K-Bikes seem to feel that it's revving too high and go looking for another gear and so tend to ride around at about 2500 - 3500 rpm relying on the low down torque. While that's ok, you'll get better performance and smoother ride and (by my calculations) better fuel consumption if you use the gears and keep the revs up, as PointSevenFive said, to around 4000rpm. I think the rider's Guide recommends not applying too much throttle below 2000rpm.

Holister wrote:Riders new to K-Bikes seem to feel that it's revving too high and go looking for another gear and so tend to ride around at about 2500 - 3500 rpm relying on the low down torque. While that's ok, you'll get better performance and smoother ride and (by my calculations) better fuel consumption if you use the gears and keep the revs up, as PointSevenFive said, to around 4000rpm. I think the rider's Guide recommends not applying too much throttle below 2000rpm.

I will put my hand up to that. I find myself around town using 5th gear and taking roundabouts in 3rd or 4th. So much torque and still smooth with light throttle below 2,000 rpm. I guess it is a trap.

I will try harder next time !

Actually, one can think of a K bike as two different bikes: one sedate below 4,000 RPM and one that's much more fun above 4,000 RPM. If you like to ride aggressively and have more torque coming out of turns then you should run it a gear or two lower than you think you should in order to take advantage of a K bike's power curve.

For example, on a K75:



Since K bike engines are "bulletproof" you can quite literally run them all day long at 6,000 or more RPM and they won't skip a beat. I know, I've done it.

I recommend that one of the first things that new K bike owners do is to put it in 3rd gear and run the bike all of the way up until the rev limiter kicks in. It won't hurt anything on a well-maintained bike.

"Ride it like you stole it."

Disclaimer: I do not recommend riding beyond your skill level.