Yes I have wiped the inside of the tank checked the rubber and replaced the hoses . The only contamination I found was bits of hardened gasket , which I think fell in when I removed petrol cap . Tank looks in good nick with no rust . Rubber is fine and not coming apart .
Will find out later today How it goes .

So well pleased today as the bike fired up and once warmed sounded good . Still need the choke on about 1/4 yo keep it idling at 1000rpm . Will have to look up how to adjust idle correctly .

It is not a choke as in the true sense, but a fast idle lever.
If you look between the middle two injector tubes, where the throttle cable attaches, you will see the screw for adjusting the idle on the 16v.

So I can use this lever to control my idle speed . ?

Peterk100rs wrote:So I can use this lever to control my idle speed . ?

The appropriate use of the lever is only for cold starts when necessary.

It will only take you five minutes to adjust the stop at the end of the cable.
Your bike do what you want.

What happens when you shut off the "choke".  Does idle speed drop way off?   Does it stop running?  Correct idle speed is 900 to 1000 rpm. 

Have you checked the throttle position sensor setting?  Have you balanced the throttle bodies?  Don't mess with the throttle stop until that other stuff is set up correctly.  Chances are, once you take care of those things the idle will be at the right speed.  You should not have to open the throttle butterflies, rather, you might just need to back out the throttle body air bypass screws a little bit more.  You might still want to run some Techron Fuel System Cleaner through the injectors and run the bike out on the road a bit as well.

Have you had the bike out since you cleaned out the tank?  Has the stalling issue been resolved?

Point-Seven-five wrote:What happens when you shut off the "choke".  Does idle speed drop way off?   Does it stop running?  Correct idle speed is 900 to 1000 rpm. 

Have you checked the throttle position sensor setting?  Have you balanced the throttle bodies?  Don't mess with the throttle stop until that other stuff is set up correctly.  Chances are, once you take care of those things the idle will be at the right speed.  You should not have to open the throttle butterflies, rather, you might just need to back out the throttle body air bypass screws a little bit more.  You might still want to run some Techron Fuel System Cleaner through the injectors and run the bike out on the road a bit as well.

Have you had the bike out since you cleaned out the tank?  Has the stalling issue been resolved?

No I haven't had the bike out yet because of torrential rain and two storms. If I warm up the bike and turn choke at just under a quarter on the bike will idle at 1000 rpm. I f I turn it off the battery light starts flashing eventually it will stop running. I think your right that I need to run some fuel cleaner through the bike and yes I agree I would rather go through a correct set up of the TPS first before adjust the cable.
So Im gonna fill her up today and take her out for a spin and pray it doesn't brake down miles from home. 
One thing I did notice yesterday was it went through five litres of fuel in no time just in my garage .

Peterk100rs wrote:One thing I did notice yesterday was it went through five litres of fuel in no time just in my garage .

That sounds like you've got a fuel-cooled engine. You're not running a Merlin under those covers, are you? It could also explain why the bike won't tick-over; way too rich. Plug check?

At very low revs the battery light will start flashing.

I had some tickover/running issues like that and its important to follow the advice and sequence given there. Once you master it then it does become quite easy and you are asking the right questions. There are some adjustments you must not touch!.

Hopefully getting out for a run will work out ok and give you some confidence. They really are a great bike when they are sorted and its worth the effort.

So today I filled the bike up and let it warm up a little , had to keep the choke / fast idle on about 25% or less. Did a 6 mile drive and it didn't cut out not even once. The bike drives real smooth and was very happy how it accelerated and braked . All in all it felt pretty good compared to my last disaster run earlier this week . I did turn the fast idle off on my way back and it didn't cut out at all although it did idle around 900 and probably would have dropped out.
So now just Need to get it to run a little quieter as it a bit rattely at tick over , this goes away at about 1200 revs. When up at any speed it sounds wonderful . so just maybe a little setting up to do yet .

But Just wanted to say 
THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR ADVICE AND HELP:cheers:

5 liters!?  How long did it take to use that much fuel at idle?  It takes nearly an hour at 60mph to use that much fuel, and well over two hours idling.

What do the spark plugs look like?  Is there unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust?

I am going to hazard a guess that you have a combination of issues causing an overly rich idle mixture.  First, is that the brass idle air screws on the throttle bodies are not backed out far enough.  Second, the CO adjustment on the front of the relay box is improperly adjusted to be too rich. 

The problem with the idle air screws as I see it is that there is no starting point specified as there is with similar adjustments on carburetors.  Even when using the recommended exhaust gas analyzer there is no specification mentioned as to this adjustment or even to the amount of vacuum to be adjusted for in the throttle bodies.

   Glad to hear you have the quitting problem sorted.

The rattle may be a combination of things.

First, the throttle body balance at idle is probably off and causing uneven firing.  You can't really hear it, but it's there.

Second, the rubber bumpers in the alternator drive clutch(sometimes referred to as "monkee knutz") may be worn and allowing the metal parts of the drive to contact each other.