I firmly believe that you will probably need to remove the gearbox if either is wrong.
Firstly try to remove the clutch pushrod out the back of the gearbox. If it will come out then the pushrod probably is usable but check it for straight with a straight edge ruler.
If it wont come then you will have to remove the gearbox to replace or straighten it. I would attempt to straighten it because if it is bent it is unusable and you have nothing to lose.
If it does come out then the thickness of the plate is probably the cause. The plate being 1.5mm thicker would possibly make the centre of the diaphragm spring higher by anything up to 6mm maybe higher so causing the pushrod to make the throw-out bearing sit further back and then the clutch actuating arm would probably not meet the bearing correctly causing it to jam in after the first time you pull the clutch in.

The pushrod is the one I see when I take off the rubber boot, right?

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:....
The bolt that came off is the one at the rubber boot, not the one at the handle bar.

Then I'd say you've not adjusted the clutch properly.

1. Adjust at the handle bar adjustment till you have 75mm cable showing at the bottom end.
   
2. Undo the adjusting bolt at the rubber cup till it's free.
   
3. Wind the adjustment back in by fingers only till it just touches. Then tighten the lock nut.
   
4. Adjust the handle bar adjustment til you have 4mm gap at the lever. Tighten handle bar adjuster lock nut.
   

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:The pushrod is the one I see when I take off the rubber boot, right?

There is the rubber boot and clamp then remove the spring then you will need a set of needle nosed pliers to get a small bearing and cup out then you should see the end of the pushrod which is about 7mm in diameter.

Holister wrote:

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:....
The bolt that came off is the one at the rubber boot, not the one at the handle bar.

Then I'd say you've not adjusted the clutch properly.

1. Adjust at the handle bar adjustment till you have 75mm cable showing at the bottom end.
   
2. Undo the adjusting bolt at the rubber cup till it's free.
   
3. Wind the adjustment back in by fingers only till it just touches. Then tighten the lock nut.
   
4. Adjust the handle bar adjustment til you have 4mm gap at the lever. Tighten handle bar adjuster lock nut.
   

To me having big font would be very offensive and it seems like you are yelling. It is not a good look.

Actually, I did the adjustment accurately.

Is it normal, I see the back of the pushrod protrude the small bearing

RicK G wrote:

Holister wrote:

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:....
The bolt that came off is the one at the rubber boot, not the one at the handle bar.

Then I'd say you've not adjusted the clutch properly.

1. Adjust at the handle bar adjustment till you have 75mm cable showing at the bottom end.
   
2. Undo the adjusting bolt at the rubber cup till it's free.
   
3. Wind the adjustment back in by fingers only till it just touches. Then tighten the lock nut.
   
4. Adjust the handle bar adjustment til you have 4mm gap at the lever. Tighten handle bar adjuster lock nut.
   

To me having big font would be very offensive and it seems like you are yelling. It is not a good look.

Wasn't intended to be either 'big font' or offensive Rick. I tapped that out on my phone while I was out. Just came out that way. Besides I've seen other posts with big font. Seems to be a glitch. I've not noticed anyone getting upset before mate. Anyway, I thought CAPITALS was yelling on the internet??

My apologies emmanuelfiadjoe if I've offended you.

Oh mate, I was never offended. I didn't know capitals are even offensive online

All good then Emmanuel. Cheers
I was just concerned when you said that the bolt that came off was the one at the rubber boot. I assumed that was when you were adjusting.
I'll leave you in Rick's more than capable hands.

All mates on standby. I am going to start work on the bike. Lol

Please, the pushrod is fine. It's moving up and down easily. I'm proceeding to remove the clutch plate

A fine example of how the forum works. And if the pushrod is fine and it turns out to be the thickness of the plate then you know you have done the job right.

€18 to post a clutch friction plate from here to you. Is the postal service reliable at your end?

Many times, they will steal the item if it's of use to them. But DHL is the deal. I am at the machine shop, but I am getting worried as the operator doesn't seem to know what he is doing and might damage the plate, and he won't take suggestions too

Before you do anything about pulling the transmission or surfacing the friction disc you need to pull the clutch push rod.

To check for straight, roll the rod on a flat surface.  Any bend will be immediately obvious.  If it needs to be straightened, lay a strip of metal on the flat surface you are rolling the rod on.  The strip should be about .5mm thicker than the step between the narrow end and the main part of the rod.

Roll the rod with the narrow end on the strip to find the high spot.  Gentle tapping on the rod when it is at the high point will bring the narrow pilot portion of the rod back into alignment.  Take your time and be gentle.  Don't hit the rod harder than necessary to bend things back into alignment.

With the rod straightened, very carefully reassemble everything and check clutch operation and report back to us.

For now, I will assume that as long as the thickness of the friction disc is less than the clearance between the pressure plate and the housing cover when the clutch is pulled in the clutch will disengage properly.  I base this on the fact that the travel of the clutch rod is substantially more than the extra 1.5mm.

If it is necessary to remove the transmission, before surfacing the friction disc it would be good to test for clearance in the assembly.  That would be to assemble the clutch pack without the diaphragm spring.  If there is enough clearance to allow the clutch to disengage I would expect the friction disc to float freely between the pressure plate and the housing cover.

OK. The clutch rod is straight.
I have already reduced the thickness of the plate to 5mm

That is good news!  Good luck putting things back together.  Hoping all goes well for you this time.

OK OK. I have installed the gearbox. I have not inserted the cable yet. But I operated the clutch using the rod the cable is fixed in, and it disengaged. But the resistance when I push the rod is a bit high, is that because the plate is new?

I suspect that resistance is the normal one as it should not be too easy, when you use the handlebar lever you have a pivot point which feels easier.

OK. Just fixed the cable and operated using the lever at the handle, feels normal

There should be a small sleeve around the nipple in the lever. It also needs to be lubricated.

Sounds like its going good for you this time.

I hope it starts

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:I hope it starts

I think that's a global hope of all us riders who own old bikes, emmanuel. 

Laitch wrote:

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:I hope it starts

I think that's a global hope of all us riders who own old bikes, emmanuel. 

I hope that's not the feeling every time you get on your bike........

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I hope that's not the feeling every time you get on your bike........

Looks like we both live in hope, Olaf.

It didn't start, but I am installing the exhaust pipe and muffler, wheels, brakes, and foot rests. Then we work on the starting tomorrow

It's 6pm here

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:It didn't start, but I am installing the exhaust pipe and muffler, wheels, brakes, and foot rests.

The engine will not turn over, or it will turn over but will not start? 

Remember back in April of 2014 when you had the same problem?
The fix was the four-pin connector under the tank. Clean it again and check that it is fastened securely.

Sure, will try that tomorrow. It's almost 7pm

Who cares about bold when we want a K to start. Lol

By the way, battery is ok, those wires you referred to are connected, neutral light working fine, starter turns.
Not sure if engine turns, very little puff of air felt from exhaust, and air just barely warm

Starter turning suggests electrics are all good. But you would know the sound of the engine turning over. Does the starter turn real fast like a whine?

Please check the sound https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Byydxg1MSudASy1zbEl0RVR3M1k
I have not started the engine in five months

Have you put fresh fuel in, if the fuel has gone rotten then it wont burn but is very good to use in a fire extinguisher.

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:Please check the sound    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Byydxg1MSudASy1zbEl0RVR3M1k

When I press the starter button on my bike, the engine turns over with a steady beat, not in groups of three beats like your engine sounds. Check the battery output when you are starting, clean the transmission ground connection, check the main connection to the starter. That starter should sound more vigorous.

RicK G wrote: Have you put fresh fuel in, if the fuel has gone rotten then it wont burn but is very good to use in a fire extinguisher.

It's the one in the tank I bought five months ago.
But should it be rotten by this time?
Can it really not fire if it's rotten?

Laitch wrote:

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:Please check the sound    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Byydxg1MSudASy1zbEl0RVR3M1k

When I press the starter button on my bike, the engine turns over with a steady beat, not in groups of three beats like your engine sounds. Check the battery output when you are starting, clean the transmission ground connection, check the main connection to the starter. That starter should sound more vigorous.

I have bought a new battery and will charge it tomorrow and try it.
But could removing and reinstalling the starter during gearbox removal and installation have caused what I am experiencing?

Yes it could have 'gone off', and yes it really can be fail to ignite correctly.

Mike

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:
It's the one in the tank I bought five months ago.
But should it be rotten by this time?
Can it really not fire if it's rotten?

Yes it can go off, and yes it can fail to ignite correctly.


Put some fresh fuel in.

Mike

If the bike has been off for five months the battery will not have full charge and unlikely to start it.

Don't keep trying it, that may damage the starter relay.

The engine should keep turning over with a fully charged battery.

And it will need fresh fuel to fire.

mike d wrote:

emmanuelfiadjoe wrote:
It's the one in the tank I bought five months ago.
But should it be rotten by this time?
Can it really not fire if it's rotten?

Yes it can go off, and yes it can fail to ignite correctly.


Put some fresh fuel in.

Mike

   My half tank fuel going waste 
But how do I get all that fuel out, and don't say I must take the tank off please 

If you siphon out as much as you can taking care to get it from both sides of the tank then put a couple of litres of fresh in and slosh it about then get that out and put in fresh again it will be OK. also put about 100ml of ethanol in so as to get rid of any accumulated water. That should be absorbed into the fuel and pass through the system without causing any problems.

I feel your pain.  Why not try to siphon the fuel out?  You may be unable to remove all of it, but I doubt that will cause a problem if you can mix it with fresh fuel.  
Fresh fuel can be very important here where I live, but I have no idea about the petrol where you live.  Good luck.

A big thank you to all mates on the forum. Thank God the bike is ok now. It's starting right I'm very grateful to you all. But from now on my elder brother (police officer) is going to own the bike. I need a bigger K

Great! How about some more information, Emmanuel. Did just new fuel do the trick? Did the battery need replacement, too, or just charging? Is the clutch performing smoothly?

New battery, new fuel, had start a lot of times with little white smoke before it started and run.

I need bigger k

I bought a new battery, siphoned the old fuel out, disconnected the fuel hose, used the starter button to get rid of old fuel in the lines, then I reconnected the fuel hose.
I started several times and all I saw was white smoke and heard repeated puff sounds, I persisted with the starter button and then there was the sound I was waiting for, it started. What a relief. I thank all of you for your support throughout the ordeal. God bless you all.

By the way, is there a 1600 K out there?

Is there a dealer near by?  I don't think 1600's are user serviceable beyond oil changes.

That would be the last bike I would consider owning where the parts are difficult and expensive to get and they need a lot of special equipment ti maintain them.
My advice is a 1200GT in very good condition with low Ks and a not so good spare. It would cost less than half the price of a 1600 and be far better to maintain.

Oh ok Rick. I shall keep that in mind