charlie99 wrote:
I understand fully bae ...but its the things we do, to something that have brought us joy or pleasure that restores the soul ..mere financial decisions just don't feel the same

yes there are the hard nosed decisions  ,...but love to see the challenge attempted and achieved ...speaks volumes for the conviction or appreciation of the soul, mate

good onya

I agree. Its not just about the money.

While the circumstances surrounding the need to do the work are extremely regrettable , there's a lot of satisfaction around a job well done.  

Bill

For what its worth I suspect the reliability of a well sorted K100 that's hitting at least 25 years old now is well ahead of that of most much newer cars.

Hollister - I'm still kicking myself for not digging out the extra few beans for an immaculate (in the pictures...who knows  what hidden secrets she had) lowish mileage K1100RS in Marrakesh Red last year that was up on eBay. There were no bids against the buy it now price, but my offers from £1800 to £2000 were rejected and I couldn't bring myself to go the extra £200 to meet his buy it now price. Sadly he sold the beauty to someone else. 

Charlie, Bill & Olaf - you're right, it is good for the soul and there is something way more important than it just being a hard nosed money transaction. 

Having named my bikes (as others have) - mainly to make it easier to differentiate between them when discussing issues on this 'ere forum, I have found that they do have their own quirks and personalities and I certainly have shared some memorable times on them, so they really do feel part of my family. I was far more bothered by the mess that the third party made of Gretel than I was of the mess he made of me...and that feeling went far, far, deeper than money.

Well, mine is called Brutus.....and at lunchtime at 1.15pm today ! got a call from my friend to bring the K100 over for 2pm. Got there at 2.30pm and we set to work, first task being to put on the new stand assembly I had got. At 3.30pm we were in at the rear main seal, exhaust off and cleanly, rear end in one piece sitting on the floor and no problems along the way.  Last few weeks was a case of WD40 on all the bolts and header nuts every few days and it really paid off. Plus I did strip back the fairing lower panels and radiator panel before going over.

Some amount of oil coming out and even better was the [original] clutch plate was worn down to near the rivets and would not have lasted the summer. As I rode it over the clutch was not feeling good, first time for that. Anyway clutch plate was in the parts box. Splines in great order, probably due to the oil leak. Kind of glad I am holding on to it.

BAE I suspect that even if you bought that low miles K1100 you would have been in there doing these sort of jobs too. Looks also can be deceptive. My K was 36,000 miles when I got it and with this job done I think its all the K jobs done.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Well, mine is called Brutus.....and at lunchtime at 1.15pm today ! got a call from my friend to bring the K100 over for 2pm. Got there at 2.30pm and we set to work, first task being to put on the new stand assembly I had got. At 3.30pm we were in at the rear main seal, exhaust off and cleanly, rear end in one piece sitting on the floor and no problems along the way.  Last few weeks was a case of WD40 on all the bolts and header nuts every few days and it really paid off. Plus I did strip back the fairing lower panels and radiator panel before going over.

Some amount of oil coming out and even better was the [original] clutch plate was worn down to near the rivets and would not have lasted the summer. As I rode it over the clutch was not feeling good, first time for that. Anyway clutch plate was in the parts box. Splines in great order, probably due to the oil leak. Kind of glad I am holding on to it.

BAE I suspect that even if you bought that low miles K1100 you would have been in there doing these sort of jobs too. Looks also can be deceptive. My K was 36,000 miles when I got it and with this job done I think its all the K jobs done.

Nice job Olaf. It is very satisfying to find something that is worn almost to the point of failure...but to get to it, with the spares in hand, before it actually fails and results in a breakdown or, worse, causes damage. Means that you have wrung every last mile out of the component. I have yet to do a clutch and rear seal...only a matter of time until I do, I'm sure. And, yes you're right - even if Miss Scarlet had come to live with me and my other girls, I would still be lavishing the time and attention on nursing poor old Gretel back to health...there would just be even less space in my little garage.

Born Again Eccentric wrote:Hollister - I'm still kicking myself for not digging out the extra few beans for an immaculate (in the pictures...who knows  what hidden secrets she had) lowish mileage K1100RS in Marrakesh Red last year that was up on eBay.

Console yourself BAE....having done that last year and not withstanding the K11rrs is an absolute turbine I still miss my old LT and it's going back on the road later this year. There is simply NOTHING on the market to beat an LT/RT fairing for our weather.

88 wrote:Console yourself BAE....having done that last year and not withstanding the K11rrs is an absolute turbine I still miss my old LT and it's going back on the road later this year. There is simply NOTHING on the market to beat an LT/RT fairing for our weather.

 Thanks 88, I'm feeling consoled - the RS would be a fair weather bike (not that fair weather can be guaranteed for long around these parts). I do really like the K100 LTs but it would have to be a K1100 RS rather than an LT to make it that much more special.

BAE, Sweet Thing has been off the road for a couple of weeks while I wait for a radiator hose from the UK, so I've been riding the RT around. Not my cup of tea tho as my legs bash against the lower fairings. Although its been sweltering down here lately, I was out the other day and was caught in a shower, not that that bothers be normally, but it was nice to have the added protection of the RT. The K1100RS is not too bad, you just need to tuck in a little tighter.

When you're visiting the Antipodes next time, you can take Sweet Thing out for the day. I'm sure she'll show you a real good time

Holister wrote:BAE, Sweet Thing has been off the road for a couple of weeks while I wait for a radiator hose from the UK, so I've been riding the RT around. Not my cup of tea tho as my legs bash against the lower fairings. Although its been sweltering down here lately, I was out the other day and was caught in a shower, not that that bothers be normally, but it was nice to have the added protection of the RT. The K1100RS is not too bad, you just need to tuck in a little tighter.

When you're visiting the Antipodes next time, you can take Sweet Thing out for the day. I'm sure she'll show you a real good time

Hope your hose arrives soon - it's a well trodden trade route and post-Brexit, the constant flow of K parts down under might be the UUK's (Un-United Kingdom) greatest export! Your legs are longer than mine - at 175cm (5' 9.5") I fit neatly into fairing recess on the 100LT. I seem to recall that your "showers" equate to the amount of rain we get in a day - a short, sharp deluge versus our long drawn out soaking. Either way, the LT/RT fairing handles it very well - I haven't experienced an RS but, at the end of the day, that's why I wear all weather gear all year round (only the layers of insulation vary).

A day out on Sweet Thing - wow, what a fantastic offer - the generosity of you guys down there never ceases to impress me. Just wish we could persuade more of you to venture north so that we could repay in kind (hopefully will catch up with Indian036 when he is up this way in June)

So, on a chilly Saturday afternoon, with snow flakes dancing in the blustery breeze it was back out to the garage to complete the reassembly of Gretel. Lower side panels and radiator cowl went on with much cussing and cursing while I tried to get all the screw holes aligned. I got there eventually, but something of a battle made worse by having cold fingers. I tried gloves, but that made things even harder due to the loss of that essential sense - touch. On with the glove boxes and rubber knee pads - more cussing and cursing as I found that the accident had twisted the left hand knee pad out of shape and it no longer fitted snuggly in the recess between the fairing and the engine. Fortunately, I have a spare which was immediately pressed into service and the old twisted one was slung on the salvage pile.

Next, it was on with the wheels with their squeaky clean new Dunlop tyres, check torque of the triple clamp bolts and then carefully I hoisted Gretel off her trolley and back onto her own wheels and centre stand. Finally, she looked like a bike again.

By the time I was done, it was dark. I had planned on checking the fluids and doing and oil change, but it was too late for that and I was cold and hungry. Just enough time for one important check though... a few litres of petrol into the tank and a moment of intrepidation. Ignition on - all indications correct, neutral light glowing, GPI showing "0", ABS light blinking away steadily. Choke on to fast idle, thumb poised over the green starter button...three, two, one...moment of truth. The starter motor whirled, the fuel pump whined - the engine coughed and spluttered and cleared it's throat as the fuel rail got up to pressure and then, the healthy roar of the mighty brick engine as she came back to life. 

I let her run at idle while I checked all other controls - head lights, brakes lights, indicators and a blast of the horn - all good. I stopped the engine, very pleased, but then to my dismay noticed a small pool of oily fluid on the garage floor. Bugger!!

Today, I was out looking for the leak. There had been no leak over night with the engine stopped and no sign of where it had come from. Perplexed, I fired her up and started inspecting. At first there was nothing, but after a couple of minutes a pool of slimy oil started to appear on the floor - it was not engine oil, but instead a steady dribble of gear oil was coming from somewhere in the vicinity of the clutch push rod boot. I'm still hoping that it is something simple and that I won't need to pull the gearbox off - could the gear casing have been cracked in the crash or is it just a seal that has failed? This is quite a set back - I was looking forward to a test ride today.

Oh well, off the shops to get some new gear oil - the old stuff needed changing anyway, but I need to find the leak first before I add fresh oil to the garage floor. 

Any experience out there of a likely leak site at the back end of the gearbox/clutch housing?

If the adjustment screw on the actuating arm is screwed in too far it wont seal or maybe the boot itself is cactus.

RicK G wrote:If the adjustment screw on the actuating arm is screwed in too far it wont seal or maybe the boot itself is cactus.

Thanks Rick - I've just finished doing a "gearbox leak" search on the forum and suspect that it will be the boot that is cactus. I wasn't aware of any gearbox leaks before the accident and haven't touched the adjustment screw at all. No idea how old it is, but will need to go and order myself a new one before I get stuck in.

Just a question of how much bike I need to pull apart to get at the little blighter. If it is a major back end and swing arm off type job, then I'll probably look to replacing the rear seal too and maybe take a look at the clutch. So near, yet so far!

pretty easy fix bae
but with the spring loading of the clutch arm return, within boot , can be frustrating

charlie99 wrote:pretty easy fix bae
but with the spring loading of the clutch arm return, within boot , can be frustrating

Thanks Charlie - had a closer look or should I say feel and the boot definitely felt rougher than it should. 

Disconnected the clutch cable and removed the jubilee clip and the adjustment bolt from the push rod assembly. Still a bit of a fiddle with the exhaust hampering easy access.  As you say, it's that spring within the boot that fights you all the way - but with it all disconnected, the boot came off easily enough.

Well, no doubt about where the leak was coming from!

The boot has definitely perished and torn over about ⅓ of the circumference (the tear was at the top, which explains why I couldn't see it in situ and explains the "rough" feel). Hindsight is a wonderful thing - I recently ordered a new set of needle bearings, pivot pin and circlip...but I didn't think to order a new boot - doh! I had actually ordered this stuff to free up Heidi's clutch (very stiff operation), but was trying to get Gretel back on the road before I dropped Heidi into maintenance mode. Best I go and order myself a pair of boots now.

It was all a bit grimy down there, so figure that it was worth taking the whole clutch actuating arm off and giving it a good clean up. Took the exhaust off for easier access - certainly makes life much easier. Disconnected the side stand retract mechanism (probably won't put it back on) and removed the pivot pin from the actuating arm without any difficulty. 

Now to get those pesky needle bearings out - might be a freezer job - and get the new ones (or the oilite bushes as suggested by SCP) fitted while I wait for the postman to bring me my boots. Time to go and do a search for needle bearing removal!

So, not quite the outcome I wanted this weekend - but still project progression and not a massive set back after all ...maybe next weekend I'll get her finished?!

Paul

That boot job was on my list too as I was also leaking transmission oil as well as the rear main seal leaking.

When I was doing the rear seal job I decided to renew everything at the cutch pivot and had a new pivot pin, the two circlips, needle bearings, and the boot. I actually didn't realise it was the cause of the leak but as a believer in preventive maintenance decided to do the lot.

Now for the actuating arm and the two needle bearings.

Getting them out is a pig. They each go back against a shoulder so driving them out from the other side doesn't really work. Had the arm well trapped in a bench vice and still no success as the shoulder between the two bearings meant you cant get anything behind that outer race to drive it out.. What happened was the inner race and needles came out, the outer race stayed in place and nothing would shift them. Resorted to a tack weld of a blob onto each of them and use that for driving them out. Any other ideas for it may be useful but probably take it with you to Bristol and get it done??

I'm going to add something counter-intuitive for reassembly and you also need to be 'under' the bike.

Grease the boot spigot on the back of the box - silicon (brake grease) is best
Hook the clutch cable into the arm
Put the boot onto the arm
Push the assembly home and slide the pin in
Then work the boot over the spigot.

Admittedly, I did have the exhaust system off at the time but it was a lot easier than trying to fight the boot under the arm. Also: IMPORTANT: check the inside of the boot to make sure that the steel washer is correctly molded in and send it back if it isn't. I had one recently that was missing the rubber over a quarter of the washer's circumference and the first thing it did was to rip the washer out.

Under the bike is the way to go with that. We had it up on a lift and its quite fiddly to get that lot in place.

As for slide the pin in....... hammer it in is more like it but be ever so careful and because I had a new pivot pin we used the old one as a drift, you don't want to break the lugs off the back of the gearbox or you have a new 'problem'. Oh, use new circlips too. Definitely exhaust out of the way if you can. You need that for access to drive the pivot pin in.

Its all worked and now I have to tackle my fuel consumption issue. A 200 mile run yesterday at 70/85mph on the speedo [actual 100/120kmh on gps] gave me 105 miles for 15 litres [7 miles per litre] and not happy with that although I was smiling after it. Need to get it back up to about 10 miles per litre and have narrowed it to injectors needing some work.

Olaf, how is the engine temperature sensor?  It sounds like your engine is running in the cold, startup mode where the engine control dumps a rich mixture into the cylinders.  You need that signal to shift to the normal mixture.

Point Seven Five

I was thinking that but it checked out when the radiator was off for the fan replacement and seemed to be ok and the wiring checked out too. I am lucky too in that the wiring hasn't been messed by any previous owners. Got a new fan too, and its working perfectly.

Might take another look at that sensor.....

But in cold start up on frosty morning its not right either which points me to the injectors. Throttle bodies etc all balanced and they were way off.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:
Now for the actuating arm and the two needle bearings.

Getting them out is a pig. They each go back against a shoulder so driving them out from the other side doesn't really work. Had the arm well trapped in a bench vice and still no success as the shoulder between the two bearings meant you cant get anything behind that outer race to drive it out.. What happened was the inner race and needles came out, the outer race stayed in place and nothing would shift them. Resorted to a tack weld of a blob onto each of them and use that for driving them out. Any other ideas for it may be useful but probably take it with you to Bristol and get it done??

Thanks Olaf - this about sums up where I've got to too. 

I manage to break up the old needle bearings, but am currently left with the outer races wedge firmly in the recess of the arm. SCP's post a while back suggested using a needle file to cut through the race...I may yet need to get myself some of them for my tool box and report to that method. I've tried my blind bearing puller, but as you say the race is hard up against a shoulder so I haven't managed to get the puller tool to grip behind the race. Might give it another couple of goes after applying some heat.

Dai wrote:I'm going to add something counter-intuitive for reassembly and you also need to be 'under' the bike.

Grease the boot spigot on the back of the box - silicon (brake grease) is best
Hook the clutch cable into the arm
Put the boot onto the arm
Push the assembly home and slide the pin in
Then work the boot over the spigot.

Admittedly, I did have the exhaust system off at the time but it was a lot easier than trying to fight the boot under the arm. Also: IMPORTANT: check the inside of the boot to make sure that the steel washer is correctly molded in and send it back if it isn't. I had one recently that was missing the rubber over a quarter of the washer's circumference and the first thing it did was to rip the washer out.

Good tips Dai, thanks. I already have the exhaust off, it's the only way to get the pivot pin out (and back in again) and makes access a whole lot easier. I have the back of the bike hoisted off the ground on my chain block (and kevlar strop) attached to the garage rafters...so am pretty much working "under" the bike. 

I should get my new boots tomorrow - I'll check them carefully - at about £20 each (there were 2 sorts on the James Sherlock site - original and Pattern; I opted for the more expensive "original" as I have no idea what "pattern" means!), best they are fit for purpose

Paul

We tried the heat option too.........didn't work.

Tried threading in a threaded bit, very fancy gadget, but it was pressing the outer race tighter to the pivot arm. If you can get something like a needle between the outer race and the pivot arm then you might be able to get a purchase on it. But if you don't have it in a vice you are more likely to stab your self in error or frustration.

SCPs option will work too if you have the necessary tool and patience.

When you say 2 boots you mean...?

I cant remember if there's an outer clip on the clutch boot, I know I ordered one for one and I think it was for the clutch boot. Got bike back on road Friday, it did 250 miles by Sunday evening.

I went for the BMW boot too, on my friends advice. He will happily go for other parts but for cables and seals/boots etc he always goes original and I can see why.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:When you say 2 boots you mean...?

I cant remember if there's an outer clip on the clutch boot, I know I ordered one for one and I think it was for the clutch boot. Got bike back on road Friday, it did 250 miles by Sunday evening.

I went for the BMW boot too, on my friends advice. He will happily go for other parts but for cables and seals/boots etc he always goes original and I can see why.

2 boots - one for Heidi and one for Gretel. There's a thin jubilee clip that clamps the boot onto the spigot - ordered a couple of those too. I thought long and hard about the £5 - 8 saving between the original OEM and the pattern one and resorted to my usual option of "you get what you pay for".  If the OEM one lasts for the next 27 years...and the copy only lasts for 10 years - where's the saving? Less than the price of a litre of gear oil and a lot more hassle!

BAE, on my high miler 75 the bearing outer race was well and truly bonded into my clutch arm and after holding in the vice was removed by using an old small screwdriver sharpened as a chisel which was driven in obliquely to start the outer shell peeling away from the recess and make it 'curl' in towards its centre, after three such blows it became loose enough and mangled enough to drift out from the far side. The other bearing needed the same treatment. I used genuine rubbers too.

Born Again Eccentric wrote:

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:
Now for the actuating arm and the two needle bearings.

Getting them out is a pig. They each go back against a shoulder so driving them out from the other side doesn't really work. Had the arm well trapped in a bench vice and still no success as the shoulder between the two bearings meant you cant get anything behind that outer race to drive it out.. What happened was the inner race and needles came out, the outer race stayed in place and nothing would shift them. Resorted to a tack weld of a blob onto each of them and use that for driving them out. Any other ideas for it may be useful but probably take it with you to Bristol and get it done??

Thanks Olaf - this about sums up where I've got to too. 

I manage to break up the old needle bearings, but am currently left with the outer races wedge firmly in the recess of the arm. SCP's post a while back suggested using a needle file to cut through the race...I may yet need to get myself some of them for my tool box and report to that method. I've tried my blind bearing puller, but as you say the race is hard up against a shoulder so I haven't managed to get the puller tool to grip behind the race. Might give it another couple of goes after applying some heat.

Some years back CF suggested to use a Rawl Bolt, excellent idea this worked very well, recently I bought a K1100 and had to remove the clutch arm bearing, I bought a pack of 8 mm wall anchors at BnQ,cost about £2.00 for a pack of 4, took  the bearings out in 5 mins. All you need is a 8mm spanner, a pin punch and a hammer, job done.

Kando wrote:BAE, on my high miler 75 the bearing outer race was well and truly bonded into my clutch arm and after holding in the vice was removed by using an old small screwdriver sharpened as a chisel which was driven in obliquely to start the outer shell peeling away from the recess and make it 'curl' in towards its centre, after three such blows it became loose enough and mangled enough to drift out from the far side. The other bearing needed the same treatment. I used genuine rubbers too.

Thanks Kando - I think I'm headed in that direction. Gentle persuasion is not getting me very far...time to up the kinetic effort. One last try with the dremel.... What a right royal PITA!

ungaas wrote:Some years back CF suggested to use a Rawl Bolt, excellent idea this worked very well, recently I bought a K1100 and had to remove the clutch arm bearing, I bought a pack of 8 mm wall anchors at BnQ,cost about £2.00 for a pack of 4, took  the bearings out in 5 mins. All you need is a 8mm spanner, a pin punch and a hammer, job done.

Cheers Ungaas, I read about that idea too after doing a random internet search - seems the problem is not unique to the BMW K series. As I have this job to do on both bikes, I am exploring all options - there must be an easy way to get these pesky bearings out.

Definitely putting a grease nipple into the arm before it goes back on the bike. - might not make it any easier to get the bearing out, but certainly should make the bearing last longer and give me a long time until I need to do this frustrating job again!!

BAE & Olaf, you might like to have a look at this, a simple longer screw makes life much easier when you're lying under your bike:-

https://www.k100-forum.com/t9036-clutch-lever-rubber-boot#106519

Paul.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Point Seven Five

I was thinking that but it checked out when the radiator was off for the fan replacement and seemed to be ok and the wiring checked out too. I am lucky too in that the wiring hasn't been messed by any previous owners. Got a new fan too, and its working perfectly.

Might take another look at that sensor.....

But in cold start up on frosty morning its not right either which points me to the injectors. Throttle bodies etc all balanced and they were way off.

Hard cold starting could also be related to a bad temp sensor by it not going high in resistance when cold.

sidecar paul wrote:BAE & Olaf, you might like to have a look at this, a simple longer screw makes life much easier when you're lying under your bike:-

https://www.k100-forum.com/t9036-clutch-lever-rubber-boot#106519

Paul.

Nice thinking SCP - I've gone and gotten myself some longer M3 machine screws. Not much choice in my local hardware store in the M3 range, so got some longer ones and have cut them down to size. Anything that avoids the need for a third hand and stops me cussing has to be a good idea. Wonder why they make the screws so darn short, when a few more mm makes a huge difference?

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:As for slide the pin in....... hammer it in is more like it but be ever so careful and because I had a new pivot pin we used the old one as a drift, you don't want to break the lugs off the back of the gearbox or you have a new 'problem'. Oh, use new circlips too. Definitely exhaust out of the way if you can. You need that for access to drive the pivot pin in.

Too late now but you don't need the exhaust off to push a new pin in. Just unbolt the silencer from the footrest hanger and lean on it slightly. Well, I actually hung a 14lb weight off the back of the silencer which provided just enough clearance for the clutch arm pin.

Ooops - your bike has a one-piece exhaust system, doesn't it? Maybe that won't work.

Today, I finally, managed to remove the pesky clutch actuating arm needle bearings - tried heating in the oven, tried freezing but those outer races were stuck in solid. Even managed to break the blind bearing puller tool. Tried the rawlbolt trick, which was successful for removing one race (yey!), but just wouldn't get a grip on the other one. Eventually, I used a small grinding tool in the dremel to carefully grind away the stubborn, hardened steel until it was paper thin and as I broke through, it simply popped out!

The rebuild went reasonably well - I opted to use the oilite bushes (as suggested by SCP) rather than new needle bearings - and packed the actuating arm with copious amounts of grease. The bushes were a tight fit, but I reckon that it will be easier to remove these bushes than the needle bearing (when the time comes). 

New boot and jubilee clip fitted (longer bolt definitely made the job a whole lot easier) and adjusting bolt screwed in and locked in position. Finished off with a nice fresh helping of AP5 gear oil into the gearbox.

Exhaust went back on without any dramas (another dose of copper slip grease on the studs). Moment of truth time (again) and with Gretel on her centre stand, I fired her up and checked that I was able to shift easily through the gears - so smooth!! 

After a short time running, into order to warm up the engine oil, I shut her down and completed my final job - an engine oil and filter change.

On a relatively warm, almost Spring-like day with dry roads and the sun shining, I rolled Gretel out of the garage - it was the perfect time for test ride. Gretel purred in anticipation as I pulled out onto the main road - I noticed the the clutch biting point was a little higher than it had been and the ABS system wasn't clearing as it should, but gave her a short blast see if there were any other obvious issues - there weren't. I returned home for a quick pit stop to adjust the clutch and check the ABS fault code with the test box - 4 flashes indicated a rear sensor error and, after a quick dose of DeOxit into the rear sensor connector, I was able to successfully clear the fault.

I was then off for a second test ride and Gretel was running like a dream, rolling around the corners on her new rubber and a featherlight clutch. A quick 10 minute ride became an enjoyable hour as I swept effortlessly along the highways and byways of Somerset. Gretel was back and looking good in her new Diamond Grey colour scheme.


All shiny and new looking - job done!


...and next weekend, Heidi will get some much needed TLC too - she's already had a new screen and there's a box full of bits sitting in the garage waiting for her - clutch actuating arm bearings (I'm a glutton for punishment!), brake pads, oil change and de-stickering...what's the point of reflective stickers if the buggers don't look?

Thank you to all forum members for the encouragement, top tips and advice during the rebuild.
Thirteen weeks to the day and Gretel has come back to life.

Well done Paul.

Born Again Eccentric wrote:Thirteen weeks to the day and Gretel has come back to life.

Great news, and thanks for the progress reports. 

Gives me encouragement (when I find the time) to address several bits of pre-existing gravel rash from before I bought my bike, and a couple of mirror and tank issues from when mine was tired and had a little lie-down while parked. 

Hope I can do as good a job. 

Bill

Good work Paul well done.
You were saying about what is the use of reflective stickers and that bought me to a favourite subject of the reflective and high viz clothing.

I have been taking particular notice of bikes and riders and have noticed that when I see a bike on the road the first thing I see is the presence of a bike then as it gets closer I will notice if the rider has any high viz clothing or not but the presence of the high viz clothing does not alert me to their presence. I have been wondering if anyone else has also noticed this.
I will see the bright colours if the bike is side on or going away but that is not when the danger of not being seen is present.
That danger is when the bike is front on and that is when the high viz clothing and the stickers like you and many others have are not very visible if at all.
In heavy rain the high viz gear does work but still not from front on.
What I have seen is that the bright LED day running lights are what will attract my attention.
All this is presuming that the driver is actually looking and aware of bikes and cares.

Paul

Great to see you back in action, hopefully you will be back over here too.

I know you won't make the Patricks weekend camping....

but Easter is also a camping weekend for me.....

....as is 18th May, Will and myself and probably a few more heading up towards ABR Rally at Draperstown......from Holyhead/Dublin ferry its about 2 1/2 hours.....straight out the port tunnel up the M1....

If any of these work for you we would love to see you.

Now I have to get a new screen too......

Great to see and read that the job has been finished. It certainly has been a journey for you and the bike and when you look back at it you have a better example of a K now. Your body can now have a rest and relax riding a "born again, again bike".

Great to hear she's back on the road Paul. The both of you have made a fantabulous recovery.

RicK G wrote:.....
All this is presuming that the driver is actually looking and aware of bikes and cares.

....or that they are not texting or talking on their mobile phones

 well done mate , fantastic news , and it sounds like the experience is becoming even better from the event .Cheers Ed.

good onya paul

marvellous to see

cheers from down here

Great job!  Here's hoping she accumulates many more enjoyable miles for you.

About the stickers.  A pair of 10W LED driving lights are the best way I know of to be seen from the front.  My experience is that Hi Viz clothing works best from behind.  I have seen other riders from over a mile away, but from the front the rider's crouch and the fairing/windshield make it almost invisible.

The stickers work at night, but can project confusing patterns that other drivers may not discern as a motorcycle.  When it is dark and raining on a wet road there is pretty much nothing that can be done to improve visibility.  Assume invisibility and ride accordingly.

Fantastic effort Paul.

That is a very distinguished colour.

Even the weather is on the improve....

Best wishes,

Dee

RicK G wrote:
That danger is when the bike is front on and that is when the high viz clothing and the stickers like you and many others have are not very visible if at all.
In heavy rain the high viz gear does work but still not from front on.
What I have seen is that the bright LED day running lights are what will attract my attention.
All this is presuming that the driver is actually looking and aware of bikes and cares.

What Rick said,
add that in todays market you can buy camouflage riding gear, now why would you not want to be seen.
Or is it just me.

Good job Paul. I'm sure it is very satisfying for you to see the bike now - I think it looks better than before.

Cheers

I have great admiration for you taking on this challenge and emerging victorious!
Way to go!  Many more happy miles/ kilometers to you and Gretel.
Dale.

Fantastic!  

An example to us all, of triumphing over life's adversities.

Respect! (as I believe the 'kids' would say)

A job well done Sir, a very nice rebuild! How are the wrists now?

 The LED running lights might be a bit of added insurance against the careless loons out there, though the problem is that nowadays most vehicles have them automatically on and so the 'stand-out' factor that once applied to bikes with lights on in the daytime is now much reduced. 

I reckon that your best protection is your seasoned rider's 6 Sense and fast reactions because when some tosser just doesn't look .................

Paul

Good to see the plans coming right.

A little plan existed to go camping with Owen [he came with us to Doolin/Westport etc] this weekend, scuppered by my daughter calmly telling late Thursday night that she was coming home from London for the weekend.

Anyway I had to cancel out but he is gone anyways....camping in the Glen of Aherlow. Not too far from home but its a lovely night here. I just sorted Brutus for a breakfast outing tomorrow.

Great work Paul. It feels fantastic when a plan comes together. Gretel looks really good and hope you have many happy miles on her. How are the wrists? Hopefully completely mended. Cheers Tom

Thanks for all the positive comments - really appreciated.

Interesting discussion of visibility - I had come to pretty much the same conclusion. I always ride with my headlight on and Gretel had additional high intensity running lights on too. Fundamentally, no matter what you do, if the buggers don't look they are going to get you unless you take the avoiding action through defensive riding. However, I have ordered a new set of high intensity LED running lights for both Heidi and Gretel and will fit them as soon as I get them.

So, Gretel is in fine form again and I'm not far behind. Physio continues on both wrists - left one still only bends back about half the amount it should do, which is a real pain (literally), the right one is only painful at the full extent of movement. Working on Gretel has helped recover my strength and dexterity, although my biggest problem was with getting up and down off the garage floor - you don't realise how important your wrists are to simple activities.

Heard from my loss legal team this week - basically nothing to report, because it was a foreign driver in a foreign plated vehicle with foreign insurance, his insurers have 6 months to investigate rather than the usual 3. The summary of the call was to tell me that they had waited 3 months to say they would be taking up to 6 months. Funny how they were able to try and submit a claim against me within weeks of the accident (dismissed by my insurers thanks to my photos and video evidence). 

Still waiting on an independent medical assessment too - all part of the verification that there were genuine injuries and assess longer term impact on health and mobility. It is highly possible that the claim won't settle for at least a year, as once settled, any additional issues would be inadmissible. 

At this stage, I am in no rush to settle - I've already footed the bill to repair Gretel and am able to ride again (without too much discomfort). If I don't make a 100% recovery, I will be pressing them hard for suitable compensation. As an Engineer by profession and an avid DIYer, amateur mechanic  and passionate K rider in my spare time, the full use of my hands is kind of important to me!