HI Folks,
My friend has an immaculate 94 K75 and needs a low seat option as he's just a wee bit short in the leg!
Anybody have one?
Cheers
Mike

As an alternative......

Pull stanchions up 10-15mm, front tyre change to 100/80 [from 110/90] gets another 10mm drop and rear tyre change from 130/90 to 130/80 or 140/80. Get rid of the standard shock which will fail anyway and get a YSS shock, found its a little shorter. Discovered it all gets a drop of about 25-30mm all in and keeps the comfort of the standard seat. It also avoids feeling the legs are a bit scrunched up.

I am shorter in the leg too and this made a huge difference. You can also get a thicker sole put on the boots.

As a cheaper alternative re-profile the seat foam and have a new cover made. It worked on my 84 K100RS.

I will have a complete low seat installation as per the OEM with an almost new condition seat for sale when I get my sidecar rig built and no further need for the low seat. Might be a while though!

Hi Kando,
Let me know when your ready as I'm sure my friend will take it.
Thanks
Mike

Okay Mike, I'll keep this thread in mind so you've got the first shout- postage might be a bit to Oz though.

 Ducks suggestion is a goer though   I did this before I got the proper gear, it was easy to do, drill out the rivets, peel back the covering ( or take it off and replace if it's Knackered) shave the foam down, an electric breadknife is good here but not of course the one that SWMBO might know about. Refit the cover- easy-peasy flat foot when stopped. I'm only 5'7" and 125lb so don't need much of a bum-pad- -  the seat width is more of an issue though. Incidentally, the Low Seat is wider at the front than a 'shaved down' standard seat!

 Trevor

Olaf, you must be a wealthier man than I, or not spending enough on your Khobby!  I'd go for a shiny new electric knife as a pressie and take away the old one to (ahem) chuck in the bike shed, this is a much cheaper option ! 
 Or are you after extra brownie points?

Not so sure.......Never owned an electric knife.....You must therefore have eleKtricKery too. But my K has a bbq. Sadly it's an old model and doesn't have the cappuccino machine option. Being a tea drinKer that sits well with me....

The post reminded me of back in seventies when the thing to do was to buy a round tin of Duckhams chain grease, take your chain off, clean it and coil it on top of the solid grease. When mother went shopping on Saturday morning it was time to pop it in the oven for half an hour so it would melt and the chain sink in the grease. Let it cool a little and then lift it out with a wire so it could drip back into the tin. Eventually it cooled enough to put it back on the bike. It was years before she finally discovered why the cooker smelt a little strange despite being told it was the oven cleaner she was using. Since it seems my mother was the odd one to go shopping on Saturday there would always be a few bikes parked outside for chain lube........

All jokes aside I am 5' 8" and found those few changes I made have been perfect for me. I like a softer seat and the Comfort seat is really good if you can drop the stanchions, rear shock and tyre depth.

Ye Gods!! The  tin of Duckhams chain grease in the backyard smoking away overheated on top of a difficult to control Primus stove, black finger nails, black blobs of solidified gunge on jeans and shoes and my 88SS - - - memories are made of this tra-la-la ! No chain lubing is one benefit of shafties I suppose! And NO elektrikery in our cottage in the depths of rural Dorset in the early '60's.

 Fitting the shorter Hagon shock made a huge difference before the Low seat fitment, but since my bike is an early 'c' with 18" wheel & 120/90 tyre I cannot reduce the rolling diameter at the back so would lifting the stanchions even by 15 mm make much difference at the foot position, and would it alter the steering response too much, Iv'e never experienced 'a slapper' , well not on a bike nor do I want to!

My Primus stove was used for camping. I wouldn't have put my chain near it!!!

I don't know my K75 very well. Does that mean the 18" wheel is a drum brake model? A change to a K100 rear end Monolever disc brake final drive would give you a 17" wheel. You would need the brake set up but its same as K100, there's another thread here on that change. With a 17" wheel and tyre change from a 120/90 rear that's 108mm deep to a 130/80 that's 104mm would drop the rear a total of about 16mm. These don't alter the configuration between bars/seat/footrest positions.

Dropping front and rear at same time by same amount will be less dramatic than dropping the front on its own. A sharp drop on front end alone it will fall into corners quicker.

That's right my '86 C model is a drum jobbie, quite adequate for my now sensible  riding style, its a relatively high miler just shy of 102k miles so spending a load of dosh changing the rear drive might be better spent  putting towards a decent later model S. My first K did have the 17" rear wheel and I was much more comfortable on that when in unknown towns and traffic. Riding isn't a problem---it's having to plonk your foot down at a traffic light on a hill on a wet, diesel stained road with bad camber and being damn sure that there's some road where the leg runs out of reach . Hence the conversion of this bike to a combo

   Trevor

Kando you can get a 120/70/18 these days, that's going to drop it a bit.

Thanks for the heads-up cster, I've had a search but cannot find that size available for a rear fitment in UK however the slightly fatter 130/70r18V Rear is available from several brands and being nearly 1.5" less diameter would drop the back end by .75" or so and still give swingarm clearance as it is less than .5" wider. That gain plus lifting the stanchions by 15mm as Olaf suggests would be a way to always ''flat-foot''.

 Thanks guys

td5 wrote:Hi Kando,
Let me know when your ready as I'm sure my friend will take it.
Thanks
Mike

 Hi Mike,
            pm sent.