After 4 long years I finally got the muffler for my K100RS It's in rough condition, but I'm hoping to get it back to a  near new state.
OK now, the heatsheild needs to be repainted, does it need to heat resistant paint?
Does anyone know any one who does chroming in Sydney?

If anyone a spare set of header pipes let me know.

I repainted the heat shields on two of my bricks.  First was to sand off as much of the old paint on the outside as possible.  On the inside of the shield I merely sanded the rust spots and roughed up the old paint a little to help the new to adhere.  Then treated with a rust converting primer that I let cure for two or three days. 

After sanding most of the rust converting primer off I did two coats of a good quality high build primer on the outside that was wet sanded with 600 grit.

Final paint was two coats of Rustoleum semi gloss black 500 degree engine enamel.  

Looks close enough to OEM finish for me, especially with the panniers in place.

Even a slap of Hammersh!te will do the job Seriously though, I did Hammerite one of my heat shields and it stayed put. It looks like the air gap between it and the silencer is enough to keep it cool, so I can see .75's solution lasting forever.

Not sure about the heat shield, but RT has demonstrated expertise in getting a very shiny back end of the pipe. You could do worse than Konsult. 

Bill

I am more concerned with the rust returning than with paint burning off.  The original paint on the heat shield is so thin it does little to offer any long term protection. 

While almost any paint should work, I like to use high temperature engine enamel under the belief that it is a bit tougher than run of the mill paint. 

While it may sound rather tedious, the university of hard knox has taught me through many years of restorations that no paint job is better than the prep, and that is where you need to put your effort.

Point-Seven-five wrote:While it may sound rather tedious, the university of hard knox has taught me through many years of restorations that no paint job is better than the prep, and that is where you need to put your effort.

I agree. I have been a keen Plastic modeler for over 50 years. The best results are when you take 5 times longer to prep the model than to paint it.

I'm looking forward to the challenge of bring the bike back to its' original  condition.

It's just like doing a plastic model, only a lot bigger.