KyleMB wrote:after heavily some intense googling and research i tracked down a gentleman and commissioned him to build a new loom for the bike.

The answer is very difficult because the loom is not an original and something may be wrong.
BUT......
All the gremlins could come from a simple cause.....
Bad ground and/or the starter!
This is hard to believe, but this is a known problem.
Remove your starter (only 2 screws) open it and check the brushes and collector.
Sometimes a simple cleanup will do the job.

CF

Did you have the heated grips on at the time it went up in smoke. There is a resistance wire in the harness that sometimes over heats and causes a meltdown.
It is possible the meltdown and problems you were having were unrelated.

Good news: blinkers, headlights (both high & low) and hazard lights all work!
Looks like the cable was loose under the blinker relay and that was it for the hazards too. i wasn't using the correct switch for the low beam.
so that just means turning the headlight ON was toggling the cooling fan somehow. maybe a bad relay? but how is the headlight interfering with the temp relay?


something else i noticed: when i kick the throttle fast the engine hesitates and nearly cuts out. ( https://goo.gl/photos/S7DpD1TpfGmDST3M7 ) not sure if it just needs to run or what.

my LT has never had heated grips. and yes im sure the meltdown problems were unrelated as that wire harness was the original, had been modified, and was starting to look a bit stiff... my new wiring harness on the other hand is looking great, BUT WHERE IS THAT GREMLIN?

also took apart the starter, cleaned the brushes. looks good.

As far as I can see from the wiring schematics, the power for the fan (which is switched inside the temp controller) comes from the load shed relay along with the headlight power. If your h/lights are 'always-on" as they are here in Oz then this would indicate that the contacts for the fan inside the temp controller are stuck on and the fan spins whenever the power is on. Someone else may be able to give you some advice about pulling the controller apart to see if you can repair the contacts if that's the case but I'd also suggest if you can get a spare, try swapping the temp controller with a good one.

Another suggestion would be to check the temperature sensor. 
A question for the Krew here.... Can resistance on the temp sensor for the controller be assessed in the same way as the sensor for the FICU?  or being the one sensor with two outputs, does the measurement at the FICU relate also to what's being sent to the temp controller?
If the sensor is indicating hotter than normal, the temp controller may be switching the fan on from the get-go. Just a thought.

All this is assuming there's nothing wrong with the new wiring harness as CF points out above.

As for the poor throttle response. Most probably a mixture issue. Could be any number of problems. For anyone to help with that, more information would be needed.
Have your checked the air filter?
Have you replaced the fuel filter?
How well does it start?
What do the spark plugs look like? This tells a lot about what's happening with the fuel and ignition.
Poor throttle response is one thing but what's the response like higher up the power band? Does it pull well above 4k rpm?
Have the valve clearances been checked?

You could have an air leak in the air intake. This is very common. Crankcase breather, throttle body rubbers, oil filler cap o-ring, injector o-rings.

If the timing has been fiddled with, that could be out. That should not need touching generally.

Take your pick. You just need to work your way thru these till you get her running sweet. Just ask for help with any of this.
Cheers

Time to own up: I built that loom - see https://www.k100-forum.com/t10428-comberjohn-s-ghost. The right-hand switch is European, so the lights aren't on permanently. It was well-tested here, so in theory there's nothing wrong with it. In theory. The only deviation from standard is that it has two separate relays fitted for the headlight; the power for the headlight now comes from the normally unused fuse 4. The wiring diagram is in the thread. At the end of the day, the only thing I couldn't test thoroughly was the temperature sensing relay so KH may have something there.

Those brushes look worn to me. Especially the one connected to the terminal. 6mm is the service limit.
As they wear down the spring pressure behind them decreases until electrical contact becomes intermitant.

Confirms my thoughts...

Carbon brush set rear, 12 41 1 459 567 is $15.48. Carbon brush set forward, 12 41 1 459 297 is $13.58 from US dealers, unless you can locate an auto electrician supplying them. It's a very common type of ND starter motor.

.... or you can buy the complete Starter Repair Kit bearing, o-rings and brush set.

Holister (KH) wrote:.... or you can buy the complete Starter Repair Kit bearing, o-rings and brush set.

yea i just got that!

i will post results