Hey everyone in Brick Land

Just a ( very) random thought - has anyone fitted a K1200/R1100 front brake cylinder to a K100RS? can it be done?

I like the look of the newer brake cylinder - all in one with the switches. No plastic sticking out on top

Anyway just a thought. Any advice / thoughts greatly appreciated

Cheers
gary

They have a 20mm bore as against a 13mm for an 8V k100 and stopping will feel like you are squeezing a brick (no pun intended)

thanks rick

I just knew someone would have an answer ............... oh well never mind 

Cheers

twb used them with the later series 4 pot callipers ...and some other mods ...never tried how they felt in comparison

as rick says, with standard 2 pot callipers  you might find a big difference in feel ....

good idea for some

You will find, upon looking on ETK, that R1100GS/R/RS/RT series use a 20mm bore MC while K1200GT/LT/RS use a 16mm MC. Is using the K1200 version it'll do you well on the RH side if you wish to convert the multipin plug to your K100 multipin plug because the switches don't 'interface', but the LH side is an hydraulic, not cable, clutch. Too many complications.

R1100 & K1100 MC look just about like a K75/100 MC. It's the R1150 & K1200 MC that have the more 'rounded' design. The switches will screw right on interchangably between the former, not the latter, two models.

I'm using the 20mm R1100 MC, throttle tube, throttle cable and TBs with four piston Brembos from an R1100GS/K1100RS over 292mm Suzuki brake discs with 8mm aluminium offsets on a three spoke K75S front wheel, on my '87 K100RS.

It works, nothin' wooden about it. I can almost do a stoppy. I say almost because my arse pinches the seat cover and won't let me slide forward.

RicK G wrote:They have a 20mm bore as against a 13mm for an 8V k100 and stopping will feel like you are squeezing a brick (no pun intended)

You can apply that statement/sentiment to fitting a 16mm m/c too . Something else to undo when I get the time...