I tried pulling the plug off the lamp, but it is either stuck, or I am not seeing some clip or something. I know on H4's there is usually a spring clip affair to hold the lamp in it's mooring, but the lamp connector has always come off everything else I have ever changed one on. The clip usually looks like a springy U which locks into a couple slides on the lamps reflector. What am I missing? Oh, and do the knobs near both right and left adjust the headlamps alignment? If so which is which?

It's stuck. Doosh it w/WD40 or the like and give it a spell to soak in.

Kyle10 wrote:It's stuck. Doosh it w/WD40 or the like and give it a spell to soak in.

Will do, so it removes as normal?

Top Left: Vertical
Lower Right: Horizontal


Ah, there is a locking clip that needs to be removed. Rotate the clip and it will come out. You've taken off the rubber boot/protector, right?

Kyle10 wrote:Top Left: Vertical
Lower Right: Horizontal


Ah, there is a locking clip that needs to be removed. Rotate the clip and it will come out. You've taken off the rubber boot/protector, right?

No because I can't get the plug off the back of the lamp yet....it's soaking in WD though as we speak.......

Kyle10 wrote:Ah, there is a PITA locking clip that needs to be removed. Rotate the clip and it will come out. You've taken off the rubber boot/protector, right?

Just thought I'd correct that

Said offending clip:

You've bought a K. I hope you have patience and like to sip beer. 

Kyle10 wrote:Said offending clip:

That whole big white thing is the locking clip? Hard to tell from the photo. And do I rotate it left to off then back right to lock?

On early Ks, there's a locking ring to hold the H4 in place.  Turn it counterclockwise. Later ones have a clip.

If the plug won't come off of the back of the H4 then it is probably due to corrosion.  It will come off, eventually.

The white plastic holds the retainer spring, which is metal.  
I can't tell you for certain which way to rotate it, as it's been some time for me and it's buried beneath a heluva lot of plastic, etc.

Duck to the rescue. Thanks, D.

duck wrote:On early Ks, there's a locking ring to hold the H4 in place.  Turn it counterclockwise. Later ones have a clip.

If the plug won't come off of the back of the H4 then it is probably due to corrosion.  It will come off, eventually.

got the plug off, a and the boot, stand by......

SniperX wrote:

duck wrote:On early Ks, there's a locking ring to hold the H4 in place.  Turn it counterclockwise. Later ones have a clip.

If the plug won't come off of the back of the H4 then it is probably due to corrosion.  It will come off, eventually.

got the plug off, a and the boot, stand by......

Success! Thanks! Oh, best to wear gloves....

Wow, nice pure white! WAY brighter than the stock H4 Halogen. We shall see how it works tonight when it is dark and I can get a real feel for the pattern and brightness. Cheers!

Picture comparo, please. Been contemplating this for awhile.

I run 100/55W or 100/90W Xenon cheapos from Fleabay.  Very white and the high beam is good enough to do at least 85mph at night.

The "worst" one I had lasted about 15K before burning out but at $8/pair I can afford a spare in the tail cowl.

(DO NOT use higher than 60W bulbs without headlight relays and beefed up wiring.)

Kyle10 wrote:Picture comparo, please. Been contemplating this for awhile.

Well, I can't do a before because I had to do this while the take was off or so I thought. So, I would have to swap the stock one back in to do a before and after shot. BUT I can do pics of what it looks like when I finish the stuff I am doing now. I will say it is much better white light, and it is very noticeably brighter, and the beam pattern is a lot better. Somewhat like having a set of LED fogs on that have the same cutoff as the low beam. Much wider light pattern. Plus on high beam it looks like both high and low beam stay on. Much more light than the Sylvania 55/60 that was in there. I'll also say, one of the reason the stock hi low switch degrades is people want more light so install a 90/130 or much higher draw halogen and it burns up the switch. These draw about 1/4 what a stock 55/60 does. So my new switch should last another thirty years.

duck wrote:I run 100/55W or 100/90W Xenon cheapos from Fleabay.  Very white and the high beam is good enough to do at least 85mph at night.

The "worst" one I had lasted about 15K before burning out but at $8/pair I can afford a spare in the tail cowl.

(DO NOT use higher than 60W bulbs without headlight relays and beefed up wiring.)

Yes, a relay is the main point to keeping your headlight switch from going thermo nuclear due to way too much amperage when using those lamps.

I'm also thinking of doing this upgrade , one question if I may , there is a metal shield inside the reflector that sits in front of the bulb , does this stay in ?

John Re

JR_K100RS wrote:I'm also thinking of doing this upgrade , one question if I may , there is a metal shield inside the reflector that sits in front of the bulb , does this stay in ?

John Re

No there isn't a reflector in the stock housing.

OK a bit off topic, butnwherebisnthe flasher relay on the k100rt?

Its in the electrical box under the back of the tank

This link is on the Portal tab. You'll find the electrical relay box diagram there.
EFI/Electronic ignition troubleshooting