Hey!

So before I begin my build thread I wanted to clear out some questions around this.


Since its possible, Ill undertake this challenge. I was planning to drop the engine and do all sorts of fun stuff to it, but I think I'll save that for another time and place.

I just want to get it running.

Anyway, my questions were:

I noticed on schematics that some parts have gaskets (Crankshaft cover, Valve covers [inner and outer], and the Cylinder head). What about the sump cover (as id like to take a look-see to see that everything is good) and timing-cover? Do I RTV these?


Any tips for this modification?


I was planning on buying new k75 pistons @ 60$ ea. (240$) with rings installed and a Main-Bearing set (142$).


Just wondering if I should take into account anything else? Tips? Chain-Timing?

Thanks for any wisdom provided 

The only real Gaskets are the head and small cover on the Hall sensors.  The crank and cam covers have neoprene reuseable seals and as for the rest BMW recommend 3 Bond but I use Permatex RTV Blue and have never had trouble.
BMW also recommend replacing the guides and tensioner on the timing chain but I have seen some engines with near 200K and the guides were OK. I would replace the guides and tensioner with what you intend to do as they do seem to get a bit brittle with age.

RicK G wrote:The only real Gaskets are the head and small cover on the Hall sensors.  The crank and cam covers have neoprene reuseable seals and as for the rest BMW recommend 3 Bond but I use Permatex RTV Blue and have never had trouble.
BMW also recommend replacing the guides and tensioner on the timing chain but I have seen some engines with near 200K and the guides were OK. I would replace the guides and tensioner with what you intend to do as they do seem to get a bit brittle with age.

Ya know whats crazy?

The tensioners alone are more expensive than the entire kit with the tensioners!!

I think I got Permatex Black. Any difference with the colors? 



Cool! Thanks for the advice. 

Im currently looking for info on how to re-align the Camshaft and the crankshaft. I plan on marking them with something white but... yeah.

The Black is OK and would probably do the job but the Blue will cop a lot more heat and has similar specs to the 3 Bond.

Best to put the whole kit in then.
Have you got a manual?

I think I've used the Permatex Ultra Grey for the water pump and sump cover. No issues.

Wow thought black was better... Well I got the receipt so I'll just exchange it.

As far as the manual goes, I've read one and it was the OEM manual. Didn't mention how to get it aligned though.

Just my opinion but "best" is a relative term.  I think it's more binary - it either works or it doesn't. Your bike will not go faster with one or the other.

jjs1234 wrote:Wow thought black was better... Well I got the receipt so I'll just exchange it.

As far as the manual goes, I've read one and it was the OEM manual. Didn't mention how to get it aligned though.

Have a look at your PM there is a link

I have seen 2 versions  of the permatex black

one was cheaper than the other

the dearer one "ultra black " was qualified as very resistant to oil  ...in some places this would be an advantage

but generaly almost all the products will "do the job " ,,,if you don't over plaster the sealing surfaces ...making sure that they seem to seal well almost before any rtv is installed at all

Here's some of the products and techniques I used for my bike's successful resuscitation: 

Products: 
- BMW K100RS STAINLESS STEEL FASTENER KIT
- Battery Cable Kit (4 Gauge) - BMW K
- Premium Silicone Spark Plug Wire Set
- Clymer Manuals BMW K-Series 1985-1997 M500-3 (the best unless you're into forking out the dough for a mechanic's manual) 
- GIBBS® penetrant: this is a restorer's best friend, ever. Will actually make castings look brand new. Amazing shtuff. Ebay or Amazon. 

Techniques/notes:
- Electrikery: check/replace every wire and ground. I swear the majority of elec. problems are simply poor grounds and rotten wires. 
- Mix 10% acetone with Marvel Mystery Oil for rejuvenating salvageable rubber pieces. A quick soak in a ziplock will amaze you. 
- Mix 50% ATF (automatic transmission fluid) with 50% acetone for the best penetrating oil you can obtain. Will get under rust and lift it from the surfaces, where you can wipe/lightly SOS-pad it away. 
- Inspect the rubber boots between the throttle bodies and the intake ports. If they're cracked you must replace them. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200 until you've done this, as your bike will never run properly with shite throttle boots. 
- Euro Motorelectrics is a great company; use them w/confidence.
- http://www.kbikeparts.com/ Seek the wisdom of the Duck; you'll never go wrong w/him. Pore through his many writings and be amazed at how granular this bast...guy gets in making things very, very Kool. 


A lot more to list and suggest, of course. Have fun; you have one of the most underrated bikes, ever. They really shine once they've been given some TLC.

My .02: Spend your money on radial tires. If you like to ride hard this is the best money you can spend.

Perhaps it's a bit of an exaggeration but radials will turn a Volkswagen into a Porsche.

duck wrote:My .02: Spend your money on radial tires. If you like to ride hard this is the best money you can spend.

Perhaps it's a bit of an exaggeration but radials will turn a Volkswagen into a Porsche.

agree ...on an rs version




the seating and geometrics of an lt - rt are very different ...still love the good- best aggressive   versions of crossply tyres on an rt-lt  type narrow rim situation ...unless you can upgrade to wider rims and paralever rear end on the rt- lt 8valves  then you will see a vast difference

duck wrote:My .02: Spend your money on radial tires. If you like to ride hard this is the best money you can spend.

Perhaps it's a bit of an exaggeration but radials will turn a Volkswagen into a Porsche.

I'd love to try radials on my '85 K100, but it seems they are like rocking horse poo.

My then fiancé's VW 1200 with cross ply tyres used to do instant lane changes on the Harbour Bridge with a bit of breeze. Even retread radials made a massive difference. Didn't help the power output though.

Bill

Didn't help the power output though. huh

duck wrote:My .02: Spend your money on radial tires. If you like to ride hard this is the best money you can spend.

Perhaps it's a bit of an exaggeration but radials will turn a Volkswagen into a Porsche.

Isn't a Porsche a Beetle on steroids, just 2 extra pots in the back but underneath the same principle?

On the tyres I think of the CB500-4 and the tyres available at the time meant it took work to pull it down into corners on rural roads. It was a pleasure but it took concentration and it always felt like the bike was drifting sideways off line as if the tyres were creeping a little, even with the then Avon Roadrunners.

The K100RT and K100LT however by comparison seem to fall into corners much better and in my case the RT is better on this than the LT. I had the opportunity of a ride on a stock CB500-4 not so long back and it was still the same and not a case of memory nostalgia. I have tried both RT and LT on BT45 after removing the tyres they came on and even that showed an improvement on tyre change alone

charlie99 wrote:

duck wrote:My .02: Spend your money on radial tires. If you like to ride hard this is the best money you can spend.

Perhaps it's a bit of an exaggeration but radials will turn a Volkswagen into a Porsche.

agree ...on an rs version




the seating and geometrics of an lt - rt are very different ...still love the good- best aggressive   versions of crossply tyres on an rt-lt  type narrow rim situation ...unless you can upgrade to wider rims and paralever rear end on the rt- lt 8valves  then you will see a vast difference

On my 93 K1100LT switching from bias ply to radials made a WORLD of difference, no more of the wandering feeling on 90 MPH sweepers, MUCH more planted. Also much better handling when really leaned over.

I wouldn't put awider rim on the front of a 2V K, would make the front end less responsive. Not to mention that the extra weight would slow the bike down, both to spin up heavier rims and overall weight.

Greater flexibility in a radial which takes up the unevenness of the road surface better than a cross-ply. Larger contact patch also gives better grip and greater stability giving more control to the rider. Pity there are no more decent radials available for the snow-flake rear wheel.

duck wrote:My .02: Spend your money on radial tires. If you like to ride hard this is the best money you can spend.

Perhaps it's a bit of an exaggeration but radials will turn a Volkswagen into a Porsche.

Hey Duck, 
I know it's somewhere, but can you post your radial 'table' or point the way?

k 1100 lt had rear 3 inch already  and they defiantly feel different than a 8 valve In many respects,  front shocks to start with and paralever rear  but I take your point on that one .