Hello all,
I tried new shock from Aliexpress. All together 72 euros, shipment more expencive than shock.
Its 360 mm from eye to eye, spring 12 mm, shaft 14 mm, 800 lbs capacity.
I need a litle modification and drilled lower and upper eye from 10 mm originaly to 12 mm needed for K 100.
Its on the bike, I drive it few days now. Impressions: little stiff but bike got much better steering. Shock absorbs very well.
Here is a link
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32946165352.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.33cb6eb2dEhO2K&algo_pvid=10e55dc5-18b3-41b4-9aca-7aac8ca71e1a&algo_expid=10e55dc5-18b3-41b4-9aca-7aac8ca71e1a-2&btsid=051d09eb-28ab-4fc3-b304-50f1cece3cdc&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10,searchweb201603_53

That price is shocking!    Do let us know how it performs.

So far so good. There is a possibility to order 325 mm shock with 10 mm spring which is lower and softer but Im happy with stronger version. 
I ll report any problem.

nino wrote:Hello all,
I tried new shock from Aliexpress. All together 72 euros, shipment more expencive than shock.
Its 360 mm from eye to eye, spring 12 mm, shaft 14 mm, 800 lbs capacity. . . .

What is the outside diameter of the spring, nino?

Outer diameter 76 mm compared to 68 of original Koni shock. It doesnt disturb right hand panier.

The longer one will be for Paralever, the shorter one for Monolever.....good price too.

A few years ago, a friend of mine bought such a cheap asian shock for his BMW Monolever. He was very happy to show us its good bargain to the annual meeting to persuade us it was a very good idea to save  50% on the price of a shock.
He never attended it.
Ths shock broke when he was riding.
He's still alive, yet. Doctors saved 50% of its brain.
Good bargain.

100% with you jbt , buy it cheap buy it twice ( or three times ) , no such thing as good quality cheap shocks , they are either good or cheap , no way I'd trust this on my bike . My shock story is : 1st replacement was a White Power , expensive and really poor quality , next : fat body Koni , good but way too hard , then an Ikon chrome body ( don't remember the model ) not too bad surprisingly : next another Icon ( searching for something better ) this was the alloy body unit , garbage . Finally bit the bullet and got the shock that I should have bought 25 years earlier instead of the crap WP , an OHLIN , if I listened to my own advice I'd have saved years of screwing around and lots of cash

may the flaming begin

John Re Melbourne Australia

You guys are raining on Nino's damper thread. Keep us posted on performance Dovidenja

Stock OE Damper length

K100 4V, K1100 (paralever)- 390mm 15.375"

K75, K100 2V (monolever)- 360mm 14.2"

For lowering K75- Progressive Suspensions #412-4016B  13.2"

YSS Suspensions offers many lengths in something like a Z-366 TR

http://www.yssusa.com/series-z.html

I have few chinese items on my old K. 

Handlebar risers 20 US dolars - perform as it should

Intank fuel pump  22 USD - 1 year in place perform better than old original

Now shock absorber - craftmanship looks very well, drive feeling rock solid. Will it break and kill me? I dont believe it looks overconstructed

Cross your fingers for me

Nino you need to get a Chinese rear master cylinder $15.00 Au. And I've happily been running a Chinese OEM copy fuel pump since July 2017. And I'm in the process of upgrading my 4.5" Chinese Fodsports GPS now 4 years old and can't get map updates as it runs on Windows CE 6.0 easily. Upgrading to the new 5" Fodsports running Android. I run RAD rebuilt OEM shocks which are upgraded from OE.
Regards Martin.

Hello Martin, do you have any reccomendation for rear brake cylinder? Link maybe?

This looks like the one a bunch of us have been using.  Looks like you can get powder coated in black which saves you the time of painting it black to match the original.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323868836265

I’ve been using one like this about 5k miles. Very pleased. NB. You need the one with slotted mounting holes.

I also got a barbed reducer to splice the hoses and reuse oem reservoir.

How did you connect to foot pedal?

Nino There are a few threads on here called chinese master cylinder or similar and a few different ways to do it. Here’s mine.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t15108-replacing-rear-master-cylinder-with-a-chineese-one#176855

In order to get the correct amount of travel on the push rod the double locknut was a bad idea. It needed too long a pushrod which then ended up binding the brake. I now use a single nut, the oem adjustor bolt, and a depression drilled in the push rod end.

It was super easy, but you must get the push rod length right, and have freeplay at the pedal as per the manual.

Do not use the Chinese supplied reservoir hose, it is not rated for brake fluid. I was doing a check over before a long ride, I saw that the supply hose was moist on the surface. As I gently wiped it the supply hose disintegrated dumping fluid over the floor. If it had done so while I was on my ride,it would have dumped the fluid over my back tyre, with dire consequences.
Regards Martin.
 
Regards Martin

Good catch Martin Thanks

Absolutely clear. Thanks.
Few words about new chinese shock. What I like most is much improved steering. By the way in front fork are Wurth Progressive spring. With New shock on the rear bike is much better in every way. No shimmie at 80 kmh and faster in curves.
Its only ten days experience but I am very content.
Best regards

Rear master cylinder link.http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9364.msg116179.html#msg116179 
AliExpress linkhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-Rear-Foot-Hydraulic-Brake-Pump-Refit-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Pump-For-Suzuki-Kawasaki-Honda/32922240225.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.75174c4dGRfhcr
Regards Martin.

Reply #32 of this thread starts a sequence of posts that show how I put the ChiCom master cylinder on my K75RT. Since then I have put them on three more bikes.  That K75T now has well over 20,000 totally trouble free miles on the master cylinder shown in the thread.

BTW, The modification of the ChiCom cylinder is a lot easier than trying to clean up the bore of the crap Magura master cylinder that came with the bike.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9364.25.html

Boy, I wish I knew about the black powder coat sooner.

Because of the location of the rear master cylinder it is subjected to a lot of water spray and crap, as well as salt in countries where they salt roads in winter. Even though I am running a Chicom master cylinder I still have my OEM one in still great condition. In order to keep the cylinder from corroding under the boot, I pack the area under the boot with heavy silicon grease. It stops the ingress of water and crap and prolongs the life of the boot. Even in Qld I've seen rear master cylinders corroded, some with split boots and some with intact boots. Checking the condition of your boot should be part of your service procedures.
Regards Martin.

forget the shit its very poor :S