BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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6strings

6strings
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I've been wondering. My rear brakes have always squealed, sometimes worse than others but almost alway squeal, often when not applying the brake. I've changed the pads several times. So is it just mine or is this a K 100 quirk.


The springs are in place, I'll have to check on a rebuild kit or something for the cylinder, maybe. I have always just ignored the noise and occaisionally would try new brake pads to try and eliminate the noise. BMW pads seem to be the worst for noise, I've tried other types, ceramic, non metal, etc, but still they make noise. I'll look at the cyclinders and try and see if the pads are returning properly.



Last edited by 6strings on Tue Dec 08, 2015 12:25 pm; edited 1 time in total

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

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Do you have the little spring in place, the one you put in when you put the pins back?


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

charlie99

charlie99
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are you using the sintered pads ?   that in it self might answer your question

a regular issue is that the rear pads don't return properly ...and all the time

sometimes this is because the one of the two tubes inside the rear brake master cylinder (equalizer tube ) has become blocked effecting retract

another reason could be that the rear pistons have become corroded inside the cylinders ..same effect  ..

good luck


__________________________________________________
cheezy grin whilst riding, kinda bloke ....oh the joy !!!! ...... ( brick aviator )

'86 K100 RT..#0090401 ..."Gerty" ( Gertrude Von Clickandshift ) --------O%O
'86 k100 rs.. #######..  "Fred " (f(rame) red ) ( Fredrick leichtundschnell ) - -
bits and pieces from many kind friends across the k100 world ...with many thanks ..
1987 k100rs ########   "Red"  - (red sports rs TWB style )
1989 K100rt #009637   "Black Betty"  (naked rt ala Nigel , now sporting an rs main fairing )
    

sidecar paul

sidecar paul
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To cure squealing on my first disc braked bike, a new 1972 Norton Commando Interstate, the wisdom was to apply a high temperature grease to the back of the brake pad. I used Coppaslip and never had squealy brakes again; I've continued using this process on all my subsequent disc brakes.

Paul.


__________________________________________________
'84 K100RS (0014643) (owned since '85), 86 K100RS (0018891) with Martello sidecar (built as an outfit in '88),
'51 Vincent (since '67),'72 Montesa Cota (from new), '87 Honda RS125R NF4 (bought 2015) 
....No CARS never ever!
    

Motorbike Mike

Motorbike Mike
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sidecar paul wrote:To cure squealing on my first disc braked bike, a new 1972 Norton Commando Interstate, the wisdom was to apply a high temperature grease to the back of the brake pad. I used Coppaslip and never had squealy brakes again; I've continued using this process on all my subsequent disc brakes.

Paul.
I also use copperslip if I touch my brakes and that's exactly what I'd do first because it normally works and it's cheap!
If that fails, I've heard of people using anti squeal shims that are used on car brakes. A trip to the motor factors with a pattern could help.

    

indian036

indian036
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sidecar paul wrote:To cure squealing on my first disc braked bike, a new 1972 Norton Commando Interstate, the wisdom was to apply a high temperature grease to the back of the brake pad. I used Coppaslip and never had squealy brakes again; I've continued using this process on all my subsequent disc brakes.

Paul.
I'm not familiar with Coppalsip as a brand, but have used equivalents over many years. 

It can be a good idea to put a little smear wherever the pad back plate touches the caliper as well as where it contacts the piston. The noise is all about transmitting a vibration from the pad to something else, and the lubricant limits/dampens this transmission. 

Bill


__________________________________________________
1985 K100RT  VIN 0028991  My original Very Happy ROB the Red Old Bike   (Historic rego)
1985 K100RT  VIN 0029036  BOB the Blue Old Bike  (Historic rego)
1990 K100LT  VIN 0190452  Work in progress
1984 K100RT  VIN 0023022  Work needing lots of progress

1986 K100RT  VIN 0090542  Work needing lots and lots of progress
1993 K1100LT  VIN 0183046  Work in progress
1993 K75S  VIN 0213045  Tom the Triple (now on Historic rego too.)
    

6strings

6strings
Silver member
Silver member
Got it, have to pick some up.

    

rawdonball

rawdonball
Gold member
Gold member
Hcharlie99 wrote:are you using the sintered pads ?   that in it self might answer your question

a regular issue is that the rear pads don't return properly ...and all the time

sometimes this is because the one of the two tubes inside the rear brake master cylinder (equalizer tube ) has become blocked effecting retract

another reason could be that the rear pistons have become corroded inside the cylinders ..same effect  ..

good luck
hi Charlie
I've encountered the rear brake drag problem. I did everything (I thought) and failed. 
I'm not familiar with the 'balance tube' of which you speak?


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'88 K100RT, '86 K75C, '05 Yamaha TTR250
    

blaKey

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All will be revealed in this post!

38 onwards.



Last edited by blaKey on Mon Dec 28, 2015 11:30 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : more specific info.)


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Neil
K100RS 1986 RED!

Dress for the ride and the potential slide.
    

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