still waiting for rear brake pads, in the mean time when I hit the left blinker it kicks on thr right blinker too. now the right blinker doesn't do that Idea why. thanks..

Check fuse #7 it may be blown or Open so check it with a meter, don't rely on a visual for those blade type fuses.
Then again you may need to replace the blinker fluid http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22

I don't believe there's any benefit to synthetic blinker fluid over dino blinker fluid.  I'll stick with dino blinker fluid.

I'm thinking your blinking blinker relay is on the blink.

One other thing that I have seen cause blinker problems is bad brushes in the starter. Yes I know that sounds crazy but the earth for the load shedding relay goes through the starter and a bad earth there will cause the blinkers to play up.

I have a hyper flash on the r/h side... been making me go epileptic the last few weeks. Bulbs and wiring test ok. I swapped out with another unit and new blinker fluid. Problem persists so I'll take a look at the starter brushes. Thanks Rick.

Nige if its hyper flashing perhaps you also have some H/R in one of your connectors and the bulb relay is not seeing all the wattage it requires to blink slower. You might need thicker fluid mate, have you tried 5 weight?

Someone, somewhere in the world is sitting at their computer wondering about this blinker fluid we're going on about...

Great isn't it!

10W is good. Suits the warmer climates.

Bike shops and Auto parts stores must love us

The inventors name was Henry Hokes I believe, assists the smooth transition of electrical smoke from one end to the other of an electrical circuit, aint that right?

It all comes down to the co-efficient of dynamic viscosity of the blinker fluid you're using. Its easy to calculate the required viscosity by dividing the dynamic viscosity by the current draw for each bulb, multiplied by the inverse square of the flash rate.... 

I've read that, reminded me of the wet bulb temperature readings. The coefficient of friction increases with the flash rate and the temperature differential improves with the wattage used.
Bloody good stuff that blinker fluid.

RicK G wrote:Check fuse #7 it may be blown or Open so check it with a meter, don't rely on a visual for those blade type fuses.
Then again you may need to replace the blinker fluid http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22

regarding the blinker fluid, i cant seem to find a tutorial in the HOW TO section, for example , how much is needed , and where do i put it , anyone

k-rider

K75cster wrote:Nige if its hyper flashing perhaps you also have some H/R in one of your connectors and the bulb relay is not seeing all the wattage it requires to blink slower. You might need thicker fluid mate, have you tried 5 weight?

I am really confused.
Does the 'W' refer to the weight or the wattage?
And how does that relate to volts? And temperature?

Your not alone Rossco, Watt Weight is also a denialist's statement. But as the Kaptain states above, its all to do with fluid dynamics, Electron flow can be hindered by old flasher units amounst other things like unlubricated wiring and dry connectors, as you know these units are sealed units and don't usually need any maintenance, (hence K Bike not tutorial) But you know how BMW shed mechanics must find a way to improve everything, Sealed Shockies for example being rebuilt etc. I think we could buy flash lube once from Morleys?. So Blinker Fluid has become available in different Watt weights to the average shedder who wants his Watts to flow better or more fluidly. Tis good stuff. All blinker parts are sealed from the factory, but that wont stop us busying ourselves with things like this.

Oh No what did I start Poor Ken will think he has got the real funny farm instead of the K forum

RicK G wrote:Oh No what did I start Poor Ken will think he has got the real funny farm instead of the K forum

Hmmmm... Is there a difference then ?!

I hope Ken has found a solution to that blinker issue, Its gone very quiet.

Ken52 wrote:still waiting for rear brake pads, in the mean time when I hit the left blinker it kicks on the right blinker too. now the right blinker doesn't do that Idea why. thanks..

still having the issue with the blinkers ,left side switch turns into flasher. after system is warm could it be low brake pad warning, unable to check recently. fingers are too stiff. but got the brake pads from Amazon witch was good.  take care fellows.

There is no sensor for low brake pads so it certainly wont be that.
The blinker unit has 2 wires that supply 12 volts and when one isn't working then that is the type of problems that present themselves. I haven't got all my circuits with me but the interactive circuit via the portal page will give you that info. Also check the earth points under the tank on the left side of the top tube and the gearbox above the coils for corrosion and dirt to ensure good connections.  Bad earths can play havoc with any electrical system.

k-rider wrote:

RicK G wrote:Check fuse #7 it may be blown or Open so check it with a meter, don't rely on a visual for those blade type fuses.
Then again you may need to replace the blinker fluid http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22

regarding the blinker fluid, i cant seem to find a tutorial in the HOW TO section, for example , how much is needed , and where do i put it , anyone

k-rider

This brand is highly recommended:

blinker still turning to flasher of left side,but found the problem with the brake warning light. got that fixed.

RicK G wrote:Oh No what did I start Poor Ken will think he has got the real funny farm instead of the K forum

must be similar to DEF fluid witch I sell at work, maybe..

Ken52 wrote:still waiting for rear brake pads, in the mean time when I hit the left blinker it kicks on thr right blinker too. now the right blinker doesn't do that Idea why. thanks..

Found out it has new brake pads,had to readjust all the brake cable linkages.

Working on all associated issues, never owned a BMW before. Will take apart switches next day off, getting into winter now, colder and wetter. you fellows take care.. -o:

RicK G wrote:There is no sensor for low brake pads so it certainly wont be that.
The blinker unit has 2 wires that supply 12 volts and when one isn't working then that is the type of problems that present themselves. I haven't got all my circuits with me but the interactive circuit via the portal page will give you that info. Also check the earth points under the tank on the left side of the top tube and the gearbox above the coils for corrosion and dirt to ensure good connections.  Bad earths can play havoc with any electrical system.

it seems to be the ground ,wiggle the wire and they will work somewhat. thankyou.

Ken52 wrote: Will take apart switches next day off, getting into winter now:

Put them in a plastic bag and unscrew them in there. Especially with cold winter fingers.
Lot of bits that want their freedom in those switches and 30 years of confinement only makes them hungrier for the darkest corner of your garage floor.
And look at the 'how to's' on the forum. Lots of good info and photos.

Welcome. Don't think I have said that yet.

rosskk(kk)o