I was lucky enough to win this on Ebay, at a very good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391229391908?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What looks like a crack in the picture, isn't - perhaps that misled potential bidders?

If anyone has fitted a later type centre stand to a 2v K100 (1989 K100/2), please would you let me know:

Did you find it necessary to fit a spacer under the main bracket?  If so, how thick?

If you fitted a spacer, did you also need to fit longer bolts?

I was also wondering if anyone has seen a side stand like the one in the picture before?  The end is flattened and looks like it was made that way at the factory.  Presumably my original side stand won't work in conjunction with the later centre stand?

should fit up ok without modification ,,, given it has the base section that mounts to the gearbox

just make sure that the pivot bushings on the centre strand are good and not too "out of round " if so replace them

you may just find that the bike doesn't lean as much when on the sidestand as well

cheers

Howard64180 wrote:I was lucky enough to win this on Ebay, at a very good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391229391908?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What looks like a crack in the picture, isn't - perhaps that misled potential bidders?

If anyone has fitted a later type centre stand to a 2v K100 (1989 K100/2), please would you let me know:

Did you find it necessary to fit a spacer under the main bracket?  If so, how thick?

If you fitted a spacer, did you also need to fit longer bolts?

I was also wondering if anyone has seen a side stand like the one in the picture before?  The end is flattened and looks like it was made that way at the factory.  Presumably my original side stand won't work in conjunction with the later centre stand?

Your link doesn't seem to work, so can't see what you won...or your side stand

With respect to centre stands....Have a look at this post from a year or so back:
https://www.k100-forum.com/t8174-centre-stand#95612

I remove the original stand and fitted the more sturdy variant without needing any additional spacers etc. Definitely worth your while getting new bushes for the centre stand and a new bolt for the side stand though.

I fitted a new style centerstand to my 94 K75RT.  Simply removed the old legs and put the "new" ones on with the old bushings and springs.  Did it that way because I wanted to keep the autoretract side stand function. 

No issues at all.  It's a simple plug and play swap.

Thanks for the replies, I'll certainly check the centre stand bushes before I fit it.  I've checked for play in the side stand, which seems good.  The whole thing needs cleaning up and painting as well.

Let's see if I can make the link work:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391229391908?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I am hoping to retain the autoretract side stand function also, which is why I wondered about using the original sidestand.  My original stands have no or very little play, as this is a low mileage bike.

I have my stand off now too and will do the vise shake test before bike reassembly. Great question, good luck fitting it.

K11 centre stands fit the K75/K100, ideal when using the later three spoke wheel on a formerly Y spoke set up. As well, K12RS/GT stands fit the K75/K100 & K11 mount, but will not fit with their original mount to the earlier gearboxes due to their bolt pattern dimensions being off.

Howard64180 wrote:I was lucky enough to win this on Ebay, at a very good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391229391908?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What looks like a crack in the picture, isn't - perhaps that misled potential bidders?

If anyone has fitted a later type centre stand to a 2v K100 (1989 K100/2), please would you let me know:

Did you find it necessary to fit a spacer under the main bracket?  If so, how thick?

If you fitted a spacer, did you also need to fit longer bolts?

I have a similar question as I've fitted an 1100 centrestand/sidestand to my K1100RT along with the paralever gearbox.

First the centrestand does work, but.  When on the centrestand both wheels are in contact with the ground.

On my K100RS-16v with exactly the same centrestand the rear wheel is off the ground.

The only answer i can think of is that there should be some spacers between the centrestand mount and the gearbox to lift the bike further.  This will probably make the bike harder to lift onto the centrestand.

Al

The stand comes with spacers and on a K1100 RS the spacers are under the bolt head but on the LT they are between the plate and gearbox. That is on both the K1100s I have but the regular ride, the Pink Red Rocket, they are under the head of the bolt because I have RS wheels.
Spacers are about 10mm

I haven't done mine yet so the spacer length may be useful to me, thanks Rick.  I may not need them but would prefer to have them in hand just in case. 

The BMW part number is 46522312703.  Item 20 on here: http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51711&catID=&catname=&bindName=Center%20stand&bindCat=46_0114

Thanks Rick, I obviously didn't pay enough attention when removing it from the K11 in the first place.  Shouldnt be too hard to find something suitable.

Al

AL-58 wrote:

Howard64180 wrote:I was lucky enough to win this on Ebay, at a very good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391229391908?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What looks like a crack in the picture, isn't - perhaps that misled potential bidders?

If anyone has fitted a later type centre stand to a 2v K100 (1989 K100/2), please would you let me know:

Did you find it necessary to fit a spacer under the main bracket?  If so, how thick?

If you fitted a spacer, did you also need to fit longer bolts?

I have a similar question as I've fitted an 1100 centrestand/sidestand to my K1100RT along with the paralever gearbox.

First the centrestand does work, but.  When on the centrestand both wheels are in contact with the ground.

On my K100RS-16v with exactly the same centrestand the rear wheel is off the ground.

The only answer i can think of is that there should be some spacers between the centrestand mount and the gearbox to lift the bike further.  This will probably make the bike harder to lift onto the centrestand.

Al

It seems strange Al, I fitted the K1100 centre stand on both my 8v bikes without spaces and have plenty of clearance, the rear wheel is off the ground a good 1/2 inch.
Is the casting on the K1100 gearbox slightly different?

smithy wrote:

AL-58 wrote:

Howard64180 wrote:I was lucky enough to win this on Ebay, at a very good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391229391908?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

What looks like a crack in the picture, isn't - perhaps that misled potential bidders?

If anyone has fitted a later type centre stand to a 2v K100 (1989 K100/2), please would you let me know:

Did you find it necessary to fit a spacer under the main bracket?  If so, how thick?

If you fitted a spacer, did you also need to fit longer bolts?

I have a similar question as I've fitted an 1100 centrestand/sidestand to my K1100RT along with the paralever gearbox.

First the centrestand does work, but.  When on the centrestand both wheels are in contact with the ground.

On my K100RS-16v with exactly the same centrestand the rear wheel is off the ground.

The only answer i can think of is that there should be some spacers between the centrestand mount and the gearbox to lift the bike further.  This will probably make the bike harder to lift onto the centrestand.

Al

It seems strange Al, I fitted the K1100 centre stand on both my 8v bikes without spaces and have plenty of clearance, the rear wheel is off the ground a good 1/2 inch.
Is the casting on the K1100 gearbox slightly different?

Don't know, It's running the 1100 gearbox and Paralever, the 1100LT Showa rear shock. Now also fitted with the 1100LT front end.  1100LT front and rear wheels. Both tyres sit in contact with Terra Firma.

I'm probably going to push the fork tubes through the triple clamps a bit anyway ( I prefer more responsive steering over stability at all costs and the slow steering that comes with it) That will make a little difference.

Al

I have an 1100 centre/side stand assembly on my 100 gearbox. 

I use the spacers as Im also using an 18" front wheel and find the extra lift to be worthwhile. 

My side stand must be bent (but does not look like it) as I have a new pivot bolt but the bike leans over way to far - especially with full luggage on. Ill either need to straighten the factory bend out of it or weld an extension in.

Floyd,

An option for the side stand is to place a lump of steel underneath the foot.  Make it half and inch or so and it will raise the height of the side stand instead of lengthening it. A couple of bolt holes drilled in the foot will secure it. 

There will be a clearance problem which will require grinding/filing.  This requires fitting and then checking the clearance.  If I remember the clearance problem was with the lump of steel and the main stand.  It may have restricted side stand use if the centre stand was up.  i.e. when you decide to get off and use the side stand first. 

If you bolt it on as against welding it then you can change sizes/thickness at your leisure. You could also have a series of plates if you cannot get hold off a thick enough piece of steel.  You could also use alloy.

I helped carry out this mod to a Kanadian registered 75RT in Germany last year.  Lots of filing!  Big improvement as the bike does not lean over with all the gear. Similar options are available for other mainly dirt bikes which have wider bolt on feet for soft surfaces. 

Will 88KE lent me a plastic foot with a lanyard attached for use with the side stand on soft ground but it does not raise the height which you are after.  I think it was a freebie from Carol Nash Insurance. 

Cheers, Dave.

Floyd its not always the bolt that is the issue  (just make sure that its not loose, so then it wears on the inside of the bush ) , its the bush ....they wear quite noticeably .
the bolt holds tension on the bush from both sides as it passes through the tang of the sidestand bracket 
try fitting the bush through the tang and see if there is any movement ....just slight movement means lots of sidestand play
good luck with it

I've slid the forks through the clamps by 10mm, the rear wheel now clears the ground by around 5mm. I'll eventually put some spacers between the stand and the gearbox, but good for the moment.

On another subject:
To complete the K1100 front end transplant I now just need a brake hose to run from the M/C to the junction on the fork bridge.  There's a local guy that can do it, easiest way is to take the bike down on a trailer so he can make sure it fits correctly.

Have to take the new tyre off and refit it the right way round as well. Oops.

Al

TacKler wrote:An option for the side stand is to place a lump of steel underneath the foot. 

Hockey puck! And no, I'm not swearing by proxy. Quick shape with a hacksaw and trim with a craft knife. I countersunk two 4mm screws into the puck underneath and drilled the corresponding holes in the sidestand foot. I can't lay authorship to the idea because I stole it from someone else on here, but it works a treat!

AL-58 wrote:
To complete the K1100 front end transplant I now just need a brake hose to run from the M/C to the junction on the fork bridge.  There's a local guy that can do it, easiest way is to take the bike down on a trailer so he can make sure it fits correctly.

That shouldn't be necessary. Use a piece of solid wire and bend it until you've determined a routing from the MC to the bridge that works. Then, measure the wire and ask the guy to build the brake line that long.

robmack wrote:

AL-58 wrote:
To complete the K1100 front end transplant I now just need a brake hose to run from the M/C to the junction on the fork bridge.  There's a local guy that can do it, easiest way is to take the bike down on a trailer so he can make sure it fits correctly.

That shouldn't be necessary.  Use a piece of solid wire and bend it until you've determined a routing from the MC to the bridge that works.  Then, measure the wire and ask the guy to build the brake line that long.

Its not just the length. There's a banjo at each end, I need to make sure they are orientated correctly on the hose so there's no twist in the line when fitted also.  

Al

Many (if not most) aftermarket brake line fittings are able to be rotated after assembly, allowing for proper untwisted installation.

I recall Gaz said he bought HEL lines for the K75X and was told to do that to align them.
The lines on my K1100 will do the same without any problems.