I have balanced my air intakes with one of these today,

1. turned the first cyclinders screw in fully
2. screwed it out 1 and a half turns
3. balance all the others to that one
4. adjust the idle screw

it is now starting with the "choke" and ticking over when cold so running better.

The only thing is the needles were all in the red at the 200 ish mark about where shown in the following picture, I have heard that when using the carbtune II models, the ones with the stainless bars, that you have to hang them upside down to get them to read correctly with the k100's.

Am i right in presuming this is why they go the other way on this type of gauge or is there a problem somewhere?



The bike wasnt running properly at low revs and was using a lot of fuel, about 30 miles to the gallon.
As a couple of the screws only went in just about a turn im presuming it wasnt giving enough air and mostly fuel, so might be better on the juice now.

Anyone have any advice as if this is normal etc

You've balanced your throttle bodies for the idle rpm range. This will/should have a negligible effect on your miles per gallon as you ride the bike.
Are the valves clearances within spec and is the ignition timing correct? If you don't know the history of the bike, or if it's been a slow degradation, give it a compression test for good measure as well.
Those should be the first things done and dusted in an attempt to sort out a 'state of tune' issue. It's a matter of getting some of the basics out of the way and answered before you delve too deeply elsewhere.

Take a close look at the little brass butterfly adjuster lock screws to see if they look like they have been disturbed. They are supposed never to be adjusted but sadly they just sit there almost saying adjust me, adjust me. Sadly some people do and mess up the running.
Regards,
K-BIKE

If you are worried about the fuel use or fuel/air ratio; that is adjusted on the Air Mass Meter. The fuel injected gets adjusted for the opening of the vane in the air intake duct. The by-pass screw allows the mixture to be set leaner or richer. You'll need a exhaust gas analyser to set it properly.
Did you release the idle screw and the TPS completely before you tried? If the rack is stopped by the idle screw or the endstop of the TPS the butterflys will not close completely, which will be noticeable in your measurements.

Renez, i did release the idle screw a bit but didnt release the TPS, can you explain the TSP screw, where it is etc so i can redo it to check.

The TPS is the little black box at the end of the rack. It is fitted with two screws and signals the ECU when the throttle is closed or completely open (on your bike, on later models its a potmeter). It is fitted over the end of the rack, but also has an end position, to do with the initial switch action. This creates the little click that you no doubt by now have read about.
Do you have a manual?

Yes i have the manual but cant seem to find much about the TPS. it shows it but i cannot see how to adjust it etc. will have a good look later in the week when im off work.

The 'adjustment' is basically slightly loosening the two screws and turn it until it just clicks when you open the throttle. Then secure the two screws. When you do adjustments to the rack you need to make sure the TPS is completely free to move otherwise it might not allow the rack to close properly. Does that clarify?

hello i to used the exact style sync. set and got very odd readings.
so took it to a local cycle shop not bmw rode it 12 miles home
now it is running lean and idles at 1500 . what is proper sequece for syncing throttle bodys?