1 Heated Grips Sun May 03, 2015 7:45 am
pseudotonal
New member
How can I tell if my 1987 K100RT has heated grips?
1989 K100RT VIN 0097367 (naked) 1996 K1100RS VIN 0451808 | Fuel: 95 Octane Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50 Gear Box Oil: Nulon Synthetic 75W90 |
pseudotonal wrote:How can I tell if my 1987 K100RT has heated grips?
KPilot wrote:I suspect the Oxford controller is simply a PWM (pulse width modulator) circuit. I would look to purchase a PWM controller like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pulse-Width-PWM-12V-24V-36V-DC-Motor-Speed-Regulator-Controller-Switch-3A-/181539908750?hash=item2a449f2c8e
The controller looks like a potentiometer. Find two settings on the potentiometer that provide the two levels of heat you want. Hard wire two resistors in place of the potentiometer that are selected with the OEM switch.
I think I probably did not explain myself clearly enough. In the PWM system you have shown us in your post above, you have a potentiometer controlling your PWM unit (looks similar to the unit I linked to as well). My point is that you can use the potentiometer to set the pulse width and have a continuously variable temperature control, or you can keep the OEM look and use the OEM switch to control the PWM circuit. If you do this, you will lose the continuously variable temperature control and have to live with off/med/high. The switch would be connected to a fixed resistor array to set the pulse width in place of the variable resistor.duck wrote:KPilot wrote:I suspect the Oxford controller is simply a PWM (pulse width modulator) circuit. I would look to purchase a PWM controller like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pulse-Width-PWM-12V-24V-36V-DC-Motor-Speed-Regulator-Controller-Switch-3A-/181539908750?hash=item2a449f2c8e
The controller looks like a potentiometer. Find two settings on the potentiometer that provide the two levels of heat you want. Hard wire two resistors in place of the potentiometer that are selected with the OEM switch.
Why would you want to put resistors in a PWM circuit? This makes no sense.
I disagree. It's just two wires and two resistors. On the OEM switch the middle contact is wired to the potentiometer wiper pad on the PWM. One resistor is soldered to one side of the OEM switch and the other resistor to the other side. The 'loose' ends of the resistors are soldered together with the second wire. This wire then goes to the other potentiometer pad on the OEM board.KPilot wrote:As I think about this some more, an easier solution to keep the OEM look and OEM switch would be to purchase two of the PWM controllers, they are only a few dollars each, and have the switch select one PWM or the other. This would be easier to wire and design than working the switch to control a resistor array.
Dai wrote:I disagree. It's just two wires and two resistors. On the OEM switch the middle contact is wired to the potentiometer wiper pad on the PWM. One resistor is soldered to one side of the OEM switch and the other resistor to the other side. The 'loose' ends of the resistors are soldered together with the second wire. This wire then goes to the other potentiometer pad on the OEM board.KPilot wrote:As I think about this some more, an easier solution to keep the OEM look and OEM switch would be to purchase two of the PWM controllers, they are only a few dollars each, and have the switch select one PWM or the other. This would be easier to wire and design than working the switch to control a resistor array.
Downside? You still need an on-off switch somewhere else for the PWM board. You could use an OEM hazard switch for this job.
If you really are going to re-use the OEM switches then I'd advise taking them to pieces and checking the sliding contacts for corrosion. Just do it in a bucket as I can guarantee that the spring and plunger will make a dash for freedom.
[Edit] Also, looking at the controller you link to, I suspect that R1 (the big yellow resistor) is being used to dump unwanted power as heat. If so, it's a poorly-designed circuit.
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