Hi all I have the method down I think but having trouble finding a reasonable priced version of the tool that removes the ring with the 4 indents on the input side of the final drive

The problem with getting a tool for that is that you cant buy cheap ones. Only the manufacturers of high end tools make them and in small quantities so you just have to wear the price.
I bought a 3/4 drive socket the right external diameter and cut it back so there was 4 tangs, it works quite well but even the ordinary socket was about $40.
When you do go to undo the nut use some heat as the factory used red loctite and it needs heat to melt it.

Thanks Rick guess I'm going socket shopping

is there anything i have to setup mesurement wise when i remove that to replace the seal ?

there will be some shims so take note of where they came from and replace them in the same place

Ok so trying to change the seal on the bevel drive/final drive the input side so small seal and for the life of me cannot get the nut undone I have secured it all in a jig but have tried heat, big bar rattle gun etc and still no joy any ideas

Hi mate, someone will know for sure but I'm thinking that's the one that gets torque of around 200 ftlb when done up, so won't be too easy. Wait til an expert comes on though.

Hmm might be worth taking to bmw mechanic and just paying them to do it prob only take them an hour with the proper tools

You wont get that big 4 prong nut of with a 1/2 in rattle gun. They are tough real tough.

Not worried about the 4 prong one it's the nut on the spline I can't undo wonder how much a mech would charge

Not worried about the 4 prong one it's the nut on the spline I can't undo wonder how much a mech would charge

I have not had any trouble with them but I think I have used the 3/4 rattler on it. It would be marginal with a 1/2 inch rattler.
Wouldn't cost much as it should only be a very quick job.