Is there a way to test the sender unit in the fuel tank is working?
Sometimes when i turn the ignition light on the fuel lights both come on, i have to turn the ignition off and on again to get them to go off and be able to start the bike, so at least i know the bulbs are working.

But i drained the tank to clean all electrical connections and only put 5 litres in and the 7 litre light didnt come on, i presumed it should have to say i had below 7 litres in the tank.

Even the manual does not say much about it and i can only find info on fitting gauges, which seems an expensive conversion.

Because theres no actual gauge i would like the lights working.
Any help or suggestions appreciated.

The second light was troublesome and that may be one reason they did away with it.
Regards,
K-BIKE

I would be interesting to know if the problem is with the sender unit or with the instrument cluster itself.
There is some electronic (transistor) on the fuel light circuit inside the instrument cluster.
You can test the functionality of the sender right at the plug of the instrument cluster.

According to the following information on the cluster plugs, pin #7 and probably #8 are the connections to the sender. This schematic is certainly for a newer model having only one fuel light. The second bulb still exist on some newer models, and people use it for other purposes (it may be used to let you know when the fan is starting).

Will it be safe to connect a 12v supply to the lights from the battery to test?
on mine the plug off the fuel tank has a brown/black and a brown/white wire which goes to the fuel low lights and a green/black wire coming from the battery, if i unplug it and jump across the green/white to one of the two lights wires will it be ok.

I dont want to damage anything so will wait for a reply.

The color of the wires is right.
I don't know if the fuel sender is sending the instrument cluster a positive or negative voltage. (I assume that it send a negative)
What I would do is unplug the instrument cluster, put a multimeter on the plug and manually move the fuel sender to see what kind of signal you get.

Before knowing if the signal is negative or Positive, I would not play with the instrument cluster. It could be a $900 mistake