I've dragged the K75c out of storage to start on it. The steering has always had a stiff spot and dry grease in the damper is suspected. Since these things fail a bit and it isn't on other moderls my question is can it be removed altogether without drama?

Hi 88, mine has always performed faultlessly so can't give an answer to your question really.

I suspect that the Mini Brick is not prone to head shaking anyway and the fluid block is just... there.

Maybe works really really well and at 29 years mine is up to spec? Na, unlikely even for BMW, don't worry 

about it, Just my humble.

First thing is to disconnect or remove it and try the steering movement while stationary. That should confirm whether it is the damper or the steering head bearings.

Bill

Thanks guys. I removed the grub screws and looking into the space it appears to be a the later type (Aluminium covered block.) the steering is stiff with the screws in place and moreso to the right. Without the screws the bloc turns with the steering. I can detect no play of other stiffness in the steering bearings. Does that confirm it's dried up grease? Maybe a strip and regrease with Moly will cure that.?

What happens if I run it without the grub screws and blank the holes. Is it just to prevent headshake? and if there is none I should be able to do that. 

I can't test ride it till the tank repair is cured and refitted!

isn't it supposed to be some kind of silicon lubricant - gell ? which would mean keep the molly away from it I guess

I would be thinking that given some exercise if could start to work better

robmac or trapper  opps meant tackler might have some ideas  as I haven't played with one yet

Will,

When I had my front end off the S last year, I was in two minds regarding the FluidBloc.  I was a bit concerned I might damage it if I attempted to remove it.  I believe the grub screws are just to stabilise or lock the damper in position.  I forget what type of moly grease goes in it.  I ended up leaving it alone. 

I replaced the steering head bearings and think it may have been on this bike that they were worn.  If worn, they will give the notchy feel, more prevalent when placed on main stand.  As you live in a fairly wet environment, I would expect that if there is any water ingress to the steering head system, then it is just a matter of time before it gets to the bearings and causes the notchiness which is essentially corrosion on the bearing race/bearing rollers.  Unless of course you can completely seal the steering head stem. 

I found that with the FuidBloc fitted you cannot get a true indication of steering head tightness or the bearing notchiness because there is a damper in the system.  Technology has since moved on.....

Good to see you TacKling the 75C, in anticipation of the summer riding season.

Dave.

Mine never had one when I bought it and still hasn't got one, and I don't know why it would need one. Just pull it out and pack it someplace safe, you can bet someone will want one someday.

Marg's K75 does not have a damper and certainly don't need one and AFAIK none of the K75RTs had one.

Rick I believe the fluid block was designed to resolve a steering issue with the 18inch rears that the C models had, I admit mine had a vagueness about it nothing to whinge about but something that the testers of that time had pointed a finger at, when the 17inch wheel went on the back the issue went away, so I'd plumb for it being only for the 18inchers and not really needed anyway. what with the tyre sensitivity the fronts exhibit no doubt just upping the tyre pressure from standard would have resolved it for the testers of the day and the fluid block may well have never been invented.

I changed the front end on my K75 from standard to a K1004V/K1100 to get wider tires.  The fluidblok device is still in the headset but no longer in use because the stem of the K1100 triple tree is smaller diameter than the K75.  I've fitted radials and the handling is perfect. There is no hint of front end instability at any speed although Duck does report that the front end can be twitchy at very low speeds on bikes to which he has made the same conversion.  If it was my motorcycle , I'd probably remove the fluidblok.  That operation will need you to replace one of the head bearings (and replace the pair since you're in there) to gain access so keep that in mind when deciding.