How do I get rid of stale fuel in the system right down to the injectors ? Gertie ( 1984 K100RT ) has been standing for about 2 years & now she won't start. The petrol doesn't smell right.

If the gas is not completely shot, I would just siphon out all you can from the tank, and fill it back up with new. the pump will circulate the new gas to the injectors. I change the fuel in my tank at least once during the winter.

ouch ...sad to hear ken
do you hear the pump running after the start button is pressed ? and do you hear fuel retuning to the tank (with lid open )
if you do
I would suggest
tank off ( lets hope you installed the slightly longer fuel hoses to get at them without having to pull the lower left fairing outer
drain the fuel  and get some new fuel and slosh it about in the tank and drain again (about 1/2  a litre )
install a new fuel filter ...(used to be able to buy one for about 20 or under at supercheap )
if you have a power supply or spare battery ...connect up to the fuel pump connections and run the fuel pump directly to flush the whole system for a little while a few minutes at lest ,  then drain the contents again , this might clean out the fuel lines to the injectors and the high pressure lines  + fuel pressure regulator .

test that you have a good charge in the battery ...12.25volts  or more
if not, charge it for a good few hours and don't try to start it again till you do .

just to start with, to make sure things are good and clean on the injection system  .

I used a 1inch bore syringe to flush out the lines past the injectors without trying to start it beforehand, I used the smallest drill I had (the back end) to act as a little roller and once I soaked the fuel pump in Kero I then used the drill to turn the rollers and create movement for the kero to flood the rollers in the pump once cleaned up that way, it went back in to be used again

SIL & me (supervising ) discovered the pump wasn't working after opening the tank to smell the foul aroma (?) of rotten fuel. Drained the tank, removed the pump & the saddle it sits in. The saddle had turned to a black gooey mush. The pump is seized solid. Filled it the best we could with WD40 & after an hour, still solid.
Haven't got any kero, but I'll try soaking it overnight in fresh petrol & hope for the best.

Keith, the rollers you mentioned, are they in the small curved slot in the bottom of the pump ?

I priced a new pump on the 'net, with the pump, saddle & filter, over $500. If we can get the pump going, it'll still cost about $150 for a new pump saddle.

Oh well, we'll see what tomorrow brings.

SIL quickly learning the intricacies of owning a K.

Thanks everybody for your replies.

ken ...price a pump out of a vl commodore ...they fit straight in
sorry don't have a replacement for the rubber damper that turned to goo

This one will do the job just use the filter that comes with the pump and double it over with a zip tie and that makes it easy to get into the hole. Leave the original BMW basket type filter on the bench or bin it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EFI-Electric-Fuel-Pump-NEW-Commodore-VL-TURBO-070-Bosch-Skyline-Falcon-V6-V8-BMW-/271807646624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f48ff8ba0

Old fuel can get sticky and turn to varnish on parts like valve stems if run and allowed to cool. Wouldn't hurt to use something like injector cleaner in half a tank and/or spray some carby cleaner into the intakes and give it a good run.

K7oaks wrote:SIL & me (supervising ) discovered the pump wasn't working after opening the tank to smell the foul aroma (?) of rotten fuel. Drained the tank, removed the pump & the saddle it sits in. The saddle had turned to a black gooey mush. The pump is seized solid. Filled it the best we could with WD40 & after an hour, still solid.
Haven't got any kero, but I'll try soaking it overnight in fresh petrol & hope for the best.

Keith, the rollers you mentioned, are they in the small curved slot in the bottom of the pump ?

I priced a new pump on the 'net, with the pump, saddle & filter, over $500. If we can get the pump going, it'll still cost about $150 for a new pump saddle.

Oh well, we'll see what tomorrow brings.

SIL quickly learning the intricacies of owning a K.

Thanks everybody for your replies.

Yep in under all that goop is the rollers in that curved bit, the brill bit bottom was being used to remove the gunk after being soaked for a day and I found out i could slide it down into the gap between two rollers and the bore and after just trying to clean the gunk out one of the rollers moved and I just kept going till it all loosened and the rollers rolled. Might pay you to take the injectors off and give them a dose of injection carby cleaner via one of those pressure pack cans just make a little connector to hook a torch batt (9v) up so you can just bad it on the injector wires and so pop the printle into action, you cant just leave power to the injector as it will burn the electric bit, good luck, its just fiddly to do.

Hi, Since we are in the Tank, may i ask - Having recently acquired a tank [86 model] that has had fuel left in it for over 2yrs & all rubber components turn to Tar, What will clean this goo of? as illustrated



The intake of the fuel pump has this accumulation of Redish, Putty like material, what will clean this of?



I have not tried to start the pump, don't want to till i've cleaned it. After cleaning it will reversing the polarity cause the pump to work in reverse and flush any gunk out?

Cheers Dale

G'day Dale. Lovely stuff that black goo, ain't it ? We found the only way to get most of it off was with mineral turpentine & a hell of a lot of elbow grease.
Looking at your photos is exactly what I found in our tank !

I'm going to give up on the pump after trying all day to get it to work, I'm going with the VL Commodore option, now if I can find a 2nd hand rubber saddle we'll have her running again.

Good luck with your problem !

Don't know about the reverse polarity bit.

Ken

I believe the pump may be same as the Peugeot 205GTI. Its also in some models 405 which have the same engine. If you have the old one out it will be easy to check against a replacement.

There are posts about simply reversing the polarity to clear stuff back out.

G'day Olaf, I'm taking the old pump with me tomorrow to make sure I get the right unit.

Trust that all's well at your end of the world.

DaleRT wrote:Hi, Since we are in the Tank, may i ask - Having recently acquired a tank [86 model] that has had fuel left in it for over 2yrs & all rubber components turn to Tar, What will clean this goo of? as illustrated

Best stuff is the carby and throttle body cleaner Nulon make a good one. It was $13 for a can but it is worth it for the time it saves.

Personally I would not even bother to clean or fix a fuel pump as you can get them so cheap. Most of the pumps for everyday fuel injection will do the job well the major thing is getting them to fit in the vibration damper and stay there. The one I have in my K1100 is for an ED Falcon sedan and is held in with two big zip ties and has been there for near 4 years. From memory it cost $45 from fleabay including postage. A wagon pump is different and does not fit as easily.

RicK G wrote:

DaleRT wrote:Hi, Since we are in the Tank, may i ask - Having recently acquired a tank [86 model] that has had fuel left in it for over 2yrs & all rubber components turn to Tar, What will clean this goo of? as illustrated

Best stuff is the carby and throttle body cleaner Nulon make a good one. It was $13 for a can but it is worth it for the time it saves.

Personally I would not even bother to clean or fix a fuel pump as you can get them so cheap. Most of the pumps for everyday fuel injection will do the job well the major thing is getting them to fit in the vibration damper and stay there. The one I have in my K1100 is for an ED Falcon sedan and is held in with two big zip ties and has been there for near 4 years. From memory it cost $45 from fleabay including postage. A wagon pump is different and does not fit as easily.

If that's an option go for it, you wont beat the cost and its a new pump and its not worth the hassle trying to sort the old one when you factor in the time and the cost of the beer cleaner......

Last year or the year before I went to see what a pump was worth in the auto parts store, A original unit was worth $415 and the unit for Charlies Toyota Corolla 51mm was worth $250, and a camira or Ford unit from the wreckers was worth $65.

the Toyota unit I bought cost me $20 and 3.5 years use ...so far ...(my Toyota is now 519,000 and still running ...although using water ...a new head gasket  is going in soon (cooked it a couple of years ago with wrong heat range plugs ....doh !!)
I just bought a ford FUEL PUMP unit, including sender and the whole lot for 45  the other day... yes second hand but good (for the injector test machine )

are you pricing these items at "auto one" keith ? 

is so... drop the price by 50%  to any real fairdinkum auto parts store ...they love buyers that specify non generic parts and take advantage at every step even their headlight globes ARE MORE THAN 40 % dearer than the same item at supercheap

it pays to shop around

just what I think

I walked into Global Auto yesterday to price one (Bosch) and they wanted $175.  No thanks, I'll use the fleabay option provided by Rick.  

I am guessing that the fleabay and every other one is made by one of our northern neighbours.  So no disrespect to some of the suppliers that we use here but putting their "badge" on it does not double the price.

Charlie it was like 2 years ago and just over at Kurri Kurri a place called lightfoots auto, was just checking whilst fixing the k100 one as the K75 one broke when I was playing with it oops as in tap tap tap oops the side broke away where we open the pump, just too far gone I'd guess.

Prices in Gladstone for the pump I wanted ranged from $190 to $297 for the same pump over six shops, how do they get their prices is beyond me. Guess who bought off fleabay for much less than half of the lowest local price. I like to support the local businesses, but there is a limit !

Found time to clean the tank, tried a number of products and the best was Nulon carby cleaner [thanks Rick] Had another brand of carby cleaner but Nulon was the better. Just have to source a fuel pump, the original is cactus, and maybe, check the fuel level sender unit.

K7oaks wrote:Prices in Gladstone for the pump I wanted ranged from $190 to $297 for the same pump over six shops, how do they get their prices is beyond me.  I like to support the local businesses, but there is a limit !

Yep hard to fathom, but for most "just in time provisioning" orders its 100% of the landed cost. That accounts for the shop to run and keep up with the discounted stuff like oil etc that they have to sell, at the same prices as from places like super cheep flogging discount oil, so your local bloke will cringe but has to stick to his business plan and hope you really want it. I'd expect fleabit has no gst to worry about.

K7oaks wrote:G'day Olaf, I'm taking the old pump with me tomorrow to make sure I get the right unit.

Trust that all's well at your end of the world.

Hi Ken

Just spotted this post and I hope this pump is further along the way to being sorted. Looking forward to seeing Gerty back on the road.

Its great to see you staying on the forum, some people just make it special.

All is good up here and we are looking forward to our next visitor from down under: Tackler, who I believe 'may be carrying some interesting hold baggage'. Indian036 has finally headed back down your way.....temporarily as he will be back up in July.

I still cant get over the lovely woodwork in the photos you had a few months back.