Hi All,
 Looks like the hex head is rounded.

Any ideas how I might extract it
Failing that I guess it's remove the whole hand grip ;-(

doesn't the pivot pin - bolt have a nut on the under side of the "perch"    which is a continuation of the bolt to the threaded section  the nut being a locking mechanism for the pin ....I don't recall a head being on that "bolt " ...more a pivot pin  have seen a slotted top section ...but usually the nut is removed first ...then its easy to unwind the pin - bolt from the perch ...must admit I tried turning my pin before finding the nut under once .

good luck rod

oh if only there was a nut.
as you can see in the photo....just a rather worn hex socket.
I'll have a longer look and maybe I can get to it from above somehow

more anon

Rod

is that top side view rod ?  bit hard with the close up pic .... what size allen head ?

you can undo the through bolt on the underside of the clutch lever assembly  to turn the lever around the handle bars to get better access ....might have to undo the clutch cable though to achieve this

oh just saw that its a k1100 ,,,,  not a k100 .... good luck

No, very much underside.
I removed the brake fluid union bolt & pipe to make it clearer.
Pivot bolt goes up from that worn hex head , thru the lever
and into a recess under the fluid reservoir.
I knew when I saw the layout in the manual I was going to be in trouble
if the damn thing was worn.
Probably not been off in a long time.
I only have the bike a couple of years and it was lying up sine 2002.
before I bought it.

here's a different view

When a problem like this arises the only solution is to drill out the bolt, as the
only visible part is the recessed head.
Beware that the bolt changes diameter inside the lever, where also the threads
for the bolt is.

I had hoped you would'nt say that...

CAn I swivel the whole grip or will I have to remove it completely from the bike ?

In my opinion the master must be removed from the bike and a drill stand must
be used as it gonna difficult to drill out the bolt due to different diameters along the length.


Or you can do as this guy and bring it to a engineering shop.

So far so good
just one last thing....electric grips.
I see the wire runs down the handle bar tube.
I guess it comes out at the center switch
or is there a plug at the center ?

The Connector for the heated grips you find on the left side under the tank,
it's a white four pole connector.....ie grips to both sides in one connector.

To disconnect you most use a small screwdriver and bend back the retaining
tang at the single contacts you need to remove.

Picture a great help
Is the tang on back of clip ?
They are tight and small aren't they

Push a small screwdriver in the direction of the arrow to bend down the retaining
tang inside the circle, then withdraw the contact in the same direction.

Thanks Inge,

I'll let you know how I got on


Parts ordered from Motorworks
32722310753 Bolt
32722310754 Bush

I was attempting to remove it last night,
and I found trying to turn the bolt is turning the lever slightly
so I guess the the bush or bolt are fused.

R

DeRodster wrote:
I was attempting to remove it last night,
and I found trying to turn the bolt is turning the lever slightly

This is normal since the female threads is in the lever and not the throttle housing.
(mentioned both earlier in this thread, and in the link).

You did indeed, but I only saw it now.
My internet is very slow and I was not able to access the link before.
I now see the problem as you mention re bolt/bush seizing  in the lever.

I guess an engineering firm may be the way to go


R

DeRodster wrote:I guess an engineering firm may be the way to go

Bring the bolt and sleeve also, then they can measure how deep they can
drill before going down on the drill bit dia.
Then you can probably save the threads inside the lever, so you don't end up
as in the link.....less modification, less work.

I guess you have started this work because you want to overhaul the leaky
master (quite common that the 20 mm masters leak, unlucky design).
If so it is a good idea to change the boot as it swells when it's contaminated
with brake fluid....and then don't keep the water and dirt out anymore.

Hello,
Well I finally broke the extractor bit having tried unsuccessfully to loosen the pivot bolt,
having used heat, cold and lots of penetrating oil to no avail.

So now it's off to an engineering workshop (not found one yet) to see if they can complete the job..

Before I got the handgrip off I had to cut the wiring to the heated grip connector...so that's another part to look for,
and god alone knows how I'm going to get the cable back down the handlebar tube....


Going from bad to worse ;-(

Rod,
Bicycle gear change cable threads easily through handlebars (even RS bars with the right angle bends) to fish the cables through.

Paul.

Shimano Dura-ace of course! 

Thanks Paul,
That I hadn't thought of
I was going to try a piece of stiff nylon tube and then try fish some
heavier chord or light rope.

inner bike cable sonds like a much better idea

Ta
Rod
and I found Motorworks.UK sell the 4way electric connector for the heated grips
so there's light at the end of the tunnel

DeRodster wrote:and I found Motorworks.UK sell the 4way electric connector for the heated grips
so there's light at the end of the tunnel

This is only the plastic housing, you still have to poke loose the single contacts
as described earlier in this thread.

I ma beginning to think Inge K needs to come visit some Eccentrics....and bring his toolkit!!

At least a few days with a few Eccentrics would make up for having to fly with Ryanair....

Easiest way to fish a wire through a complicated conduit is to block all the openings except for where the wire enters and exits.  Take a string and blow it through with compressed air.  Only takes a second.

Then use the string to pull the wire through.

So it currently looks like I'm stuffed

not able to drill out tip of hardened steel extractor.
Have managed with Dremel to remove excess head of old pivot bolt.
Am going to try with small burr to dig out the remaining bit of
the extractor.
Then i should be able to get the old bolt drilled out

Failing that it's off to Motorworks for a secondhand brake fluid reservoir
and brake lever etc

Onwards and upwards ;-)

R

sad to hear rod

but good luck ...fingers crossed for you

 What a bu€€er!

well it's improving my engineering skills that's for sure ;-)

DeRodster wrote:
Failing that it's off to Motorworks for a secondhand brake fluid reservoir
and brake lever etc

Quite common that the 20mm masters leaks due to corrosion in the outer end of the bore,
could maybe be a better idea to buy a new one.

You might be right Inge, but @ 336euro I think I'll give the old one a second chance first !

Not to hijack this thread, but I have a corroded rear master cylinder from a 75 and the 20mm front on my 100 weeps slightly. 

I am very tempted to go in there with some JB Weld to fill in the pitting.  Has anyone ever tried this?

Best thing to do is put a stainless sleeve in and take the bore back to 19mm (3/4in) and cut the piston back to suit then if you need to fix it again the seals are about $2 each and available from any auto shop. You may need to make a new piston depending whether you have the hard anodized or straight alloy piston because once the anodizing comes off and the surface is finished it about 0.1 mm too small.
Also do the same to the rear and take it back to 1/2in.
From what I can find BMW is the only manufacturer that uses metric seals like 12mm, 13mm and 20mm.
I borrowed all the brake part books from the local auto shop and I could not find a matching seal for front or rear M/C all the cars use imperial sized brake and clutch seals in the hydraulics.
If they are fixed like this then you will probably never have to touch them again and if you do it will cost peanuts to fix.