I had a coolant dump so now want to get at the rad cap. 
Tank hoses are too short to allow me to just pull it back so will have to disconnect.
Clymer says i must depressurize fuel system (P229) so I look for pressure regulator vacuum hose (fig 2) but I'm looking at RHS and can't see it. Is this on RHS?
So consider option 2, which is to disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector fr the main wiring harness (fig 4)
but can't see it either !!!!!!!!.

Under the tank LHS is a pipe (just behind the tank sender connecton),which drops down about 150mm on to the top of the injector rail,  Looks like B in Fig 126 on p 263 but he refers to this as the fuel FEED hose.

In front of the T S connector is another hose but in fig 125 he calls this the fuel return hose . I can't see where it goes to but it seems that it will be difficult to get off the tank without pulling the whole LHS fairing outer off).

Am i looking at removing only two hoses plus the TS unit connector. 

What i can't understand is how there's not going to be a gush of fuel when i remove the fuel feed hose or will this be almost zero because the pump is de activated?.

All this to get at a radiator cap !!!!!!. I'm glad my ute isn't built like this.

Any knowledge, clever ideas, get well messages, or drinks welcome -probably best in that order.

All of this may not be necessary, apart fr the fact that I want to lengthen the hoses so i can get the tank back next time, because the rad cap may now not need checking.
After the coolant dump, I refilled the reservoir, rode it for 40kms and checked the level. Didn't suck coolant fr the reservoir to rad when the engine cooled. Inferred fr this that the dump was fr reservoir only and nothing fr the radiator.
Topped up reservoir to slightly overfill before going to Grafton. Engine seemed fine and not overheating. Now 450kms later the level of reservoir seems much the same. 
So seems almost certain that rad is full ??

It is easier if you remove the left lower fairing section and fit hoses that are 40mm longer which means that you will only have to remove it rarely.

I would lift the tank without undoing any hoses.
It will come up a bit and with assistance can be balanced on the left side of the centre bar on the frame.
This will give you very limited access to the radiator cap. However, it is held to the frame with two small nuts screwed onto bolts attached to the frame.
Undo the nuts. 
The upper hose should give enough for you to pull the fill point out enough to get the cap off and re-fill as necessary.
To de-pressurise the system I undo the radiator cap.

Tks Rossko,
First of all the hose that runs down to the injector rail has no slack in it. I cannot lift the tank sufficiently to get to the cap. This hose will have to come off. I want to replace it with a longer one so that this sort of problem doesn't recurr. No good taking the Bottom piece of fairing off when the connections are obstructed by the TOP fairing. Sure you can get a screwdriver in there to slacken off the clamps but you can't get in there to pull the hose or push a new one on ( or carefully pull the TS plug).
I can undo the line running to the rail, at the bottom if need be and with the tank off, can then put the longer hose on. BUT there is still the other hose (in front of the TS plug), that i need to get off.

Because the FUEL system needs to be depressurized first (according to Clymer) I don't want to start pulling hoses before doing this. In the post above I pointed out that i couldn't even get this done.



.

All I have ever done to de-pressurize is to remove a fuel line on the fuel rail that feeds onto the top of the injectors, the front line going to the tank is the best. Front line on the fuel rail is the one not front line on the tank as it is the return line and wont be pressurized.

I undid the line going to the injector rail, at the bottom and this allowed me to lift the tank and cant it over to the left. I could then get to the rad cap (but had to undo the 2 holding bolts in order to twist the cap.)

Coolant is right up to cap so this confirms belief that dump was of reservoir only. Next time this happens, I will stop and pull off side cover and lift reservoir cap to release pressure (or syphonic action.) Will stick finger over end of outlet pipe to stop fluid dump. It has only happened once but unlike overheating of coil was not a partic hot day

So I need as you say to lengthen the fuel delivery line by 40mm so that i can repeat check of rad cap without having to disconnect lines.

There is a fairly rigid piece of material (fibre stuff) which last owner put in to insulate tank from heat. Can i add a piece of foil blanket to this and make it so sides drop down to try and stop some of the heat getting to my legs - or is this detrimentally reducing the engines ability to dump heat?

Can see that there are two vent (drain) pipes under the tank. Obviously one is the top overflow. What is the other . Clymer illustration on p 264 does not show.

The other tube is connected to the water drain next, left side top of tank next to the filler cap.

and insulation blanket.........??

If you go to motobrick.com and have a look for jonny blanket it will give you some ideas of what can be done

good one tks Rick.  found heap of stuff but i didn't know that they were called that.