I don't know whether I should be mad or excited, that some 'young?' idiots decided to take my old Beamer without consent and cause a fair bit of damage. Fortunately (if there is any fortune in finding it in such a state) I used a bit of Sherlock-icity and found it - all covered over with branches and stuff to camouflage it (either to come back and have more fun on it or lift it in a van). You can probably imagine how I felt when I first saw it lying there - it looked wrecked. One pannier was missing (it had my helmet & leather gloves in it), both mirrors were gone, as was the screen - apart from some small fragments left in the screws  :pale:

After foraging around, I found one mirror, then later on in the day, I found the remains of the screen, complete with perfect footprint right in the centre (police told me it would be of no use as they don't record footprints - they are genuinely not interested in bringing anyone to justice). After a restless night, I went back, in the daylight,  to where I found the bike and found the pannier, still locked, and the other mirror - I was SO happy to find the pannier, since it was in value about £300 including the contents.

All in all, I suppose I am relieved that the damage will be repairable at minimal cost, but it has made me hesitant to take my bike to certain places until I get proper anti theft devices - any advice on this matter would be much appreciated. I bought an Oxford Screamer, only to find that the 7mm pin would not fit into the smaller slots on my front wheel brake disk. I'm hesitant to buy a chain until I'm sure it will not be possible to cut it with bolt cutters (as I've been told some can - and I can't afford a titanium one right now). Alarms which are triggered when the bike is moved sounded good to me, until I was told that a windy day will set it off - whew, what a nightmare!!


Screenless


OUCH!!

Abandoned pannier - whew, relieved!!


Well camouflaged and nearly missed it.

Sorry to hear about your bike being 'borrowed' without your consent.
Usually, thieve don't bother about a K100 because the market for stolen parts is almost nonexistent.
It's very easy (and dirt cheap) to make a device preventing the bike to be started.
One of the security feature of the EFI is that it is disabled if the water temperature is too high.
Just have a hidden switch somewhere grounding the water temperature sensor. The EFI will receive a false signal that the engine is overheated and the injection will be disabled.
(The engine will not stop if the water temp is too high, but if you shut it off, it will not restart until the temp comes down under 100 degrees(Celsius)).

CF

That's a shame.
If you were in NZ idd give you the top fairing.
I couldn't even sell mine on a dollar reserve auction.
Maybe you will find parts cheap.

Sorry to see what has happened too.

Sagi over here had an attempt on his K75 not so long ago and it seems the Ks are becoming targets.

Both instances seem to be the urban cowboys that just take them and wreck them joyriding.

The top fairing is your biggest trouble as it takes a bit of work to get it off. However getting one is not too hard. But, a big but, its possible to put a metal plate behind the fairing and use countersunk fixings and fibreglass to reinforce it from behind, without taking the fairing off. A professional repaint [or a diy repair and using a well designed vinyl sticker/go faster stripe to cover the area] and all might well be ok and that route is not silly money. This time of year you might need a reasonable indoor temperature to do a fibreglass repair. A new screen to me is a treat as it always makes a bike look great, about £85 I think.

The grounding of the temperature sensor is a darn good idea and maybe a tip for more of us.

Crazy Frog wrote:Sorry to hear about your bike being 'borrowed' without your consent.
Usually, thieve don't bother about a K100 because the market for stolen parts is almost nonexistent.
It's very easy (and dirt cheap) to make a device preventing the bike to be started.
One of the security feature of the EFI is that it is disabled if the water temperature is too high.
Just have a hidden switch somewhere grounding the water temperature sensor. The EFI will receive a false signal that the engine is overheated and the injection will be disabled.
(The engine will not stop if the water temp is too high, but if you shut it off, it will not restart until the temp comes down under 100 degrees(Celsius)).

CF

a great idea bert .... maybe add another keyed type switch for this and mount it above the coils .....well in that area in any case

good to hear that you got it back ali ....
phew !!!!

I'm very sorry to hear of your loss. The b*stards will likely never be caught and any idea of punishment for the crime comes a distant last place in the judicial system. But happy about the recovery of the bike and the ancillaries. It makes one feel sick to the stomach that their personal items are vulnerable and so easily wrecked by what appears to be pranksters.

Not that it would make a whole heap of diff to an illegal panel shop but how about scribing the bike's VIN into all of the major panels? I bought a pin-type lock for the front brake discs (Abus brand) which does not squeal but is at least a deterrent for rollaways, though I hear a coupla strong kids and two skateboards in the dead of night and she's gone. With it I use a cable that stretches from the device up to the 'bars as a reminder to not just think I can climb aboard, start up and away!

I will look into Bert's idea of a (well hidden) on/off switch to the thermo sensor.

Cheers from Fife, Washington state.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune Alibear. Totally senseless b'strds.

It is a sad state of affairs when the police don't seem to give a damn and you just become another crime statistic - although that is probably driven by the fact that even when they do get enough evidence to support a prosecution, the courts are pretty soft on the perps - so why bother? Quick enough to prosecute speeding bikers though!!

Hope you manage to get her back in shape without too much cost and effort. 

A cautionary lesson to us all though - I have a heavy chain & lock, but seldom use it as I think "who would nick a K100?". The only exception is if I am staying somewhere overnight without secure parking, or somewhere unfamiliar, and then I'll chain her up. Maybe I need to rethink that strategy.

My Dad used to say mine would never be stolen as 'its not like its desirable!' show him this just to prove a point. Mine would be pretty easy as it starts with Snods K key, lock must be pretty worn....

Hi sorry to hear. Have a complete RT/LT fairing with screen etc of a 1989 bike, yours for £50 John

Having had two Moto Guzzis stolen in Belfast I know exactly how you feel. Being parked under a streetlight didn't stop the first pair of b*stards, although in that case the police did fingerprint it in case they got a match (they didn't). I got my Cali 1100 back again and the insurance company paid for the damage but they classed it as my fault for allowing it to be stolen because the police didn't get a conviction. It never ran right after that.

No.2 - my V1000G5 - was parked right outside the Royal Courts of Justice and within in range of 13 (yes - thirteen) security cameras, yet somehow the theft didn't show up on even one of them (I have my doubts but who am I to argue?). The bike was torched after the theft and the police simply weren't interested because effectively all of the easily-available forensic evidence had been destroyed. Again, the insurance company classed it as my fault blah, blah, blah.
 
LFB is secured with an Oxford Products Magnum D-Lock (the proper motorcycle one, not the cheaper bicycle one of the same name). It's hardened steel and comes with a £1000 payout if your bike is stolen as a result of the lock being destroyed/picked. The nice bright yellow cable is a must; I've ridden off twice with the shackle still in the front wheel... last time was just two nights ago!

Crazy Frog wrote:Just have a hidden switch somewhere grounding the water temperature sensor. The EFI will receive a false signal that the engine is overheated and the injection will be disabled.
(The engine will not stop if the water temp is too high, but if you shut it off, it will not restart until the temp comes down under 100 degrees(Celsius)).

CF, please spell this out to a techotard (me). Really interested.

Kyle10 wrote:CF, please spell this out to a techotard (me). Really interested.

This is very easy. You have to connect the side of the temperature sensor feeding the EFI to one side of a switch, and the other side of the switch to a good ground.
If you want to be a bit fancy, you can use a double pole double throw switch and ground both temperature sensors (Both sensors are in the same unit).
This way, if the Anti theft switch is turned ON, the red light for the water temperature will glow to remind you that the EFI is disabled (when you turn the ignition ON).

Thanks, Bert. Printed and cracking knuckles presently. 

Appreciated tons.

There are some %$£(*&^'s about,   but glad you've retrieved most of the bits.

Here's another option to stop your bike being wheeled away.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t3290-centre-stand-lock?highlight=centre+stand+lock

Good luck with the repair,

Paul.

sidecar paul wrote:Here's another option to stop your bike being wheeled away.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t3290-centre-stand-lock?highlight=centre+stand+lock

Good luck with the repair,

Paul.

Thanks Paul, I forgot about this post. That was a cleaver cheap solution (and we like cheap).

CF

sidecar paul wrote:There are some %$£(*&^'s about,   but glad you've retrieved most of the bits.

Here's another option to stop your bike being wheeled away.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t3290-centre-stand-lock?highlight=centre+stand+lock

Good luck with the repair,

Paul.

Here are some photos. Of that locking mechanism.  I will likely take it off over the winter to replicate if for my KafeRacer build.  When I do I will take some more detailed photos and measurements.

Thanks Dave.

Yes PLEASE take detailed pictures as this system was very cleaver (maybe not for anti theft, but for every day use).
It could be used as an anti theft by simply being able to lock the lifting handle (a pad lock may do the trick).

Hi all you guys and gals, thanks for your kind comments and advice. Just like CF and Becky's dad (along with a few other non-complimentary folk I've spoken to), I too thought a K100 would not be a 'desirable' steal. Even the two policemen, who said they knew several 'regular' bike thieves in the area (another sad reflection on our judicial inadequacies) didn't think it was the 'type of bike' they would want to steal (cheeky gits). I spoke to another local 'biker' who disagreed with that statement, making the comment that some of these nutters will take anything with an engine, as long as they can have a bit of fun at someone else's expense - to them, a thousand pound well cared-for bike and a fifty quid run-around have no difference in value.

I've looked at all the options on here (and there's a LOT of great ideas), for security, but practically every one has a weak point - from bolt cutters to skateboards - it appears that a time-delay is all that can be expected. The switch under the seat is a good idea to prevent the bike starting, but because the switch mechanism is invisible, it wouldn't stop them ripping the dash off to try and hot-wire it first (I know, at least they wouldn't be able to drive it away). I think a flashing LED in the dash somewhere would be a worthwhile addition since, it would be a visible indication that there was SOME sort of protection on the bike, which might make them think twice about attempting anything. 

The centre-stand locking idea, is one I am definitely going to be considering with the slight difference of a disk lock, rather than a padlock (both for ease of use and prevention of bolt cutters).

As a temporary measure right now, I have purchased a device which clamps onto the throttle and locks the front brake which will stop them wheeling the bike away. The thing is made of plastic (which bothered me) but the guy in the shop said it was steel re-enforced. It also wouldn't stop the skateboard or 'bundle into a van' methods and I've heard of guys going about with pocket grinders which make short work of just about anything. I've seen ones since, which are made completely of metal and cheaper than the £50 I paid at the local bike shop.

The whole incident has really knocked the stuffing out of me because I realise now that, no matter what methods are used, if they are determined they will either steal the bike or wreck it in the process - there is virtually NO deterrent to discourage them from doing it, barring a hand grenade attached to a hidden wire running to a pin in the ground - oops, who said that? -

Would be great to hear anybody else's experiences of theft (attempted or actual), vandalism and methods of prevention.


Thanks for the offer of the screen John, that would have been great if I had been a bit closer to Peterborough. The damage to the fairing is fairly minor, so I'm just going to attempt a self-repair. As for the screen, I've been looking at video clips regarding the pro's and cons of acrylic and polycarbonate, so looking for a sheet of poly to cut, shape and fit myself.

Screen is easy to do as a singe curvature. Use thick card or plastic or damp hardboard to make a template, including the holes. Test it for height because you can make this to suit your height! Laid flat you have a perfect template. B&Q sell perspex/polycarbonate/Lexan and that's all you need, apart from a fine hacksaw to cut it. Don't take off the surface protection until all cutting is done, it scratches eaily. It bends easily too but don't concentrate heat in one spot. Don't bend it far without some heat as it will craze.

An abra file is possibly better than a fine hacksaw (unless you meant a coping saw Olaf?) because they will cut any curve you like. In either case, the watch word is 'cut slowly' to prevent heat buildup and clogging of the cutting teeth.

Dai

As you suggest a much better option for the curve. The hacksaw frame is not the easiest to work around and worth buying the right saw. I have a very small neat fine tooth saw which I use to cut Formica etc, it also has no frame but doing curves is a little tricky with it.

Masking tape over the protective film can be marked to the correct line and helps protect the screen. Slow work is very important as otherwise the plastic will melt and it goes all wrong.

I found B&Q had small sheets that are actually enough to make 2 screens! Because of the way they scratch they are not great if they get too old but I have found that a new screen that you actually look through is fantastic in wet weather, at least where I live. Getting the right top line is important. If you make a good template make sure to keep it and even copy it on to a plain white sheet of paper....that way you have one for the forum....!!! Entitles you to a free beer plus postage..!

Sorry about your siutaiton.  I have an extra faring and windscreen from a 1985 K100RT (I've removed headlight, turn signals, mirrors, etc--so its just the fairing and windscreen.  I'd send you both for free if you pay shipping.  I'm on the West Coast of the USA, so it might not be worth ithe cost of shipping if you can find something local, but I thought I'd exend the offer just in case. You'd have to repaint (or live with a multi-colored bike) as mine are green.  Best of luck getting this fixed up!

Thanks KJustin, Mossy1200 & John for your offers of fairings and screens, I really appreciate that, unfortunately, postage IS the killer with this kind of stuff. I've discovered an unexpected bonus with attempting it myself, as I'll explain. I was following the instructions and warnings about cutting, and was looking online for the best place to buy a sheet of the stuff. I remembered a chap, locally to me, who is a glazier and also dabbles in picture framing. I asked if he was able to get 4mm Polycarbonate sheets and he said "not a problem". I then went on to ask if he had the facilities to cut it (not really knowing if this was asking too much) - again, he said it was all part of his price "BUT...", he said, "it's quite expensive" - aha, I thought, here we go, he'll be asking for £100 for this service. You can guess my happy surprise (I didn't show it in case he decided to change his mind) - he said "that would be about £16, cut to any shape you want" - I had already made a template of the screen (tracing round the bit I found and filling in the broken bits by guesswork & logic) - so I can pick it up on Monday, all I have to do then is bend it into shape with a heat gun.

Just thought I would mention all this in case anyone else is in the unfortunate situation of needing a screen, worth asking a glazier if they can supply and cut for you.



On a slightly different matter - I noticed a thread about a problem with the speed of the forum - I had never noticed anything before, but on posting this reply, I checked and it took a full two minutes to load the reply panel, the bottom of the screen said "waiting on illiweb.com" if that means anything to the moderators.

get the same here ali ....but not from the same provider

This will make you laugh and I should have thought of it since someone tried to take Sagi's K75 not so long ago.

In areas prone to vandalism a lot of windows in buildings and car fly windows are prone to being broken by vandalism or stone throwing. Glaziers then often use Makrolon or some other polycarbonate sheet as replacement.......so yes, they would be used to working with the material and buy it in big sheets.

Two minutes? That's just the time needed to enjoy a beer. Sounds like the forum is working just right. 

'Press send once, sit back and have a beer while the forum does the work'

I'm also in the club of having a nice BMW bike stolen before, so when upgrading and investing in my current machine I do think about this issue. 

A basic carbon fiber bike lock just looped around the back rim and not attached to anything else is the most basic and visual form of deterrence. Also about the cheapest.

My bike is wired for the OEM alarm system, and I found an alarm box on e-Bay last year. If your bike is so wired, this may be another solution since the alarm system also locks out the ignition.

Some on this site have said that anything that interrupts the ignition system should be avoided, but if the system integrity can be verified I don't see why the OEM system shouldn't be used. Still, I'm a bit concerned since the alarm box has tamper-resistant screws and I need to get a good look inside to be sure every thing in good working order before installing it. It's another winter project.

AJ.Valente wrote:My bike is wired for the OEM alarm system, and I found an alarm box on e-Bay last year. If your bike is so wired, this may be another solution since the alarm system also locks out the ignition.

The way that the BMW alarm system locks the ignition is by ........... grounding the water temperature sensor.

CF

Crazy Frog wrote:

AJ.Valente wrote:My bike is wired for the OEM alarm system, and I found an alarm box on e-Bay last year. If your bike is so wired, this may be another solution since the alarm system also locks out the ignition.

The way that the BMW alarm system locks the ignition is by ........... grounding the water temperature sensor.

CF

The early version OEM alarm which is used on the K100 models (and others)
does not cut the ignition.

It is connected to the heat management relay, but that is just the wires that is
spliced/branched to get ground (31) and switched power (15) to the alarm box.
The water temp sensor ( terminal E at the heat m. relay) have no connection
to the alarm system.

This is based on BMW's own wiring diagrams.