Bike is in pretty good condition overall, though I have no title or key. Abandoned by the PO who has since relocated from CO to MI. After speaking with him he will work on getting me the title. As for the key, I removed the ignition cylinder and brought it to a locksmith who was able to cut a key. When I reconnected the cylinder and turned the key, only the brake light and front parking light came on... that said the key only turns the cylinder 45 degrees. Based on pictures of others bikes, the key needs to rotate a full 90 degrees to go from "off" to "on", with a "P" in between (which I assume means parking?)... So Im wondering if the key that was cut is only turning the cylinder 45 degrees to the "P" location... can anyone confirm the 90 degree movement from off to on?

Does the bike have a steering lock?  When it is stuck it can make it very hard to turn the key.

Yep 45 for parking, 90 to the on position.

the steering is not locked tho...

Apparently you can get a key cut from the Vin number, in the meantime you could jump the ignition switch to see if it goes. The ignition switch plug is under the tank.

Yeah I've heard i can do that through a bmw dealership tho need to show proof of ownership... I see four wires at the disconnect. how would I arrange those to bypass the switch?

A jumper between the red and green wires.

don't I need to ground something

No, it only supplies power further on, then you need to push the green start button.

hey it turns over and all lights work! you're amazing!

The coloured wiring diagrams are good, a bit overwhelming at first, but looking at one area at a time, gradually a picture emerges.

If you put a bit of pressure on the key, towards the centre of the lock, or the opposite, or something else like that, you might be able to turn the key 90 degrees. Some of my keys are like that.

It might be easier to just get another lock, than a key that fits.

Sounds like the key is close but not perfect. There might still be wafers sticking out that prevent the cylinder from rotating to the second position. Inser the key into the ignition. You can disassemble the lock to expose the lock cylinder. Then you can release the "locking wafer" at the bottom of the lock which releases just the lock cylinder. See Duck's guide: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/rekey/rekey.htm Then file down any protruding wafers. Test the lock cylinder in the lock periodically to see your progress. Once that is done, the ignition can be reassembled.

Ok made some decent progress. Was able to get the ignition key cut appropriately and the cylinder now turns all the way, but unfortunately that key didn't work for the tank so I had to bring my tank to the locksmiths. Spent a few days doing a lot of driving for all that bs. Drained the gas/filled up with fresh, charged the battery, replaced the oil and spark plugs, but unfortunately she wont fire. Turns over, but not sputtering or anything. Would the engine still turn over if the starter relay was bad? Will check fuses

Shoot some starter fluid into the air intake.  See if it fires.  That will help identify if you have a fuel or spark problem. 

If the engine has sat for an extended time, you should shoot a teaspoon of oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes.  That will help bring up the compression if the rings are stuck.

Could I use carb cleaner as a substitute? I see others have used that but mostly on lawn equipment. Also the rings wouldn't be stuck if Ive already turned over? So arent I past the point of that preventative lubricating.

Starting fluid is guaranteed to burn... easily.    Carb cleaner, I don't know.

Oil helps fill the space between the rings and the cylinder walls, also as the piston moves up, the oil it is pushing helps seal the gap.  It can take a couple hundred miles to free up a badly stuck piston ring.  For that job, I use Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in the first couple tankfuls after I put a bike back on the road after a long storage.

arbr0972 wrote: So arent I past the point of that preventative lubricating.

That lubrication .75 recommended isn't preventative; it's remedial.

For example:

ok threw some oil on top of the cylinders and didn't get anything... did some starting fluid got a little sputter which was amazing, thought my battery then died. I couldn't hear the fuel pump when listening at the gas cap as that gentleman in the video.. though not sure what I wpuld hear?

arbr0972 wrote:I couldn't hear the fuel pump when listening at the gas cap as that gentleman in the video.. though not sure what I wpuld hear?

You should hear a buzz from within the tank for a second or two after you release the starter button. You can hear it at around 2:10 of this video.

Another easy place to check for power to the pump is fuse 6, which will show if the problem is upstream or downstream of the fuse. If there's only power on one side of the fuse with the start button pressed, it's a bad fuse.

this is where I'm at... any thoughts?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FCiRe5f95qI?feature=share

I can hear the fuel pump btw..

What happens when you use the starting speed increase lever (choke) instead of the throttle? 

Have you replaced the fuel filter, inspected the condition of the tank's interior fuel lines, checked the condition of the fuel pump electrical connections, verified that fuel line connections are tight and inspected the tank for floaters and gunk? If you haven't, you should. If you have, how is it in there?

The gas cap has been installed 180º out of rotation. That allows moisture to infiltrate the fuel in the tank.

there does appear to be some black particulate in the tank... does that necessarily mean the filter is clogged?

fuel lines are nice and secure though, fuel pump connectors are good, electrical connections inside the tank are good... could it be the injectors?

arbr0972 wrote:there does appear to be some black  particulate in the tank... does that necessarily mean the filter is clogged?

It means the fuel filter has as much black particulate as its hours operating within that tank could provide. It also might mean that the fuel injector screens have their own collections of finer black particulate clogging the injectors and the injectors should be serviced. Replace the filter. Many here have used NAPA 3032 filters, just don't use the hose that comes with them; you must use SAE30R10 submersible fuel injection hose.

How about my question concerning what happens when using the choke instead of the throttle when starting the Brick? Bricks often don't respond well to use of a throttle when starting.

I'll look for that filter.... and when using the choke I there doesn't seem the be any difference

Replaced the fuel filter and no dice.. I called the local bmw dealership and their service tech said maybe to check that the injectors are getting an electrical signal?
either way I appreciate all the advice from everyone. it has been very helpful and reassuring

daveyson wrote:Apparently you can get a key cut from the Vin number, in the meantime you could jump the ignition switch to see if it goes. The ignition switch plug is under the tank.

BMW can supply a key from the VIN but it might take a little while.

We had two keys (two separate bikes) supplied that way after losing the keys in a housefire.  We were able to push the bikes out of the garage and save them.

Al