Thanks for pointing it out Inge. 

I'll check the side stand switch, then learn how to test a relay. Duck, when you say put a vacuum hose over the tang, I'm trying to imagine this, do you mean just cut a piece of hose and wrap it to restrict it?

I should add I need a multimeter that works, returned my good one to HomeDepot which was too expensive, I'm now left with this made-in-China crap that does't show 12V on the dial, it's a bit confusing, I'm not even sure it'll work. Then again I'm not a multimeter expert.



I initially tested the tank plug to see if was getting power with one of those pins with the red light on top, with alligator clip to the frame. To get a correct reading off the plug with a multimeter (assuming the one I have will work) is it red pin to (+) and the (-) to frame/battery, then I press the ignition for a reading?

If it showed 12V on the dial then that would be up to 12 volts. If you connect it to the bike battery while the engine is running it would read MAX as 13.8 volts is over 12 volts. Put it on 20V and it will show you 13.8 volts.

that one should work out ok chris

go forth and measure away

hope you read "kbikes " amps volts and measuring stuff thread

a good insight for beginners and multi meters

cheers

Thanks for all the tips you guys, the KBIKE article is a great refresher thanks Charlie99. So I fired up the MM and all the fuses are getting 13.8V when I press the ignition - #1 #2 and #6 however register zero without the key in the on positon, which I think is normal.

Then I hooked up the MM to the tank plug...




...put the key in pressed the ignition and got this reading...



clearly not 13.8v so I wonder where the power loss is. Switched out the fuel pump relay with matching relay beside it so see if it was shot, got the same reading. Then I moved the pins around on the male connector for better contact, plugged it in tried it again, no dice. Wondering, where too next.

Measure the fuses with the meter on the 200 ohm scale, don't just do a visual check. I have seen quite a few fuses that look OK but have corroded inside and wont conduct
The digital MMs take a bit of time to respond and because the fuel pump is only supplied with power for 1.5 seconds and then turns off unless the computer is receiving a signal from the ignition that the engine is running or still turning.
So the meter probably isn't responding quickly enough to give a reading before the 12v stops.
I would suggest a small 12v light bulb connected between the 12v wire for the pump and the ground on the frame, the light should flash.
Put your finger on the relay and feel the relay click is a good check for the relay operating.
If it does not flash go to the relay socket and put the red probe into each slot till you get 12v, If you don't get 12v at any of the slots then go to the fuse and make sure you are getting 12v at both sides of the fuse. If you don't get 12v at both sides of the fuse the fuse is bad.