Hi everyone,
I’ve got a bit of an odd problem with the rear brake on my K1100RS fitted with ABS1.
Recent the brake stopped working, the brake pedal just pushed down with very little resistance, it felt like the seals in the master cylinder were passing. I’ve just bought a brand new cylinder and the problem is the same.
The only other thing it can be is a valve in the rear ABS modulator bleeding off the pressure !!
The ABS system shows no errors, the lamp goes off when I ride a few meters.
Has anyone seen a modulator fail in this manor ?

I’ve bled the system really well, there was no sign of air coming out of either nipple, is there a chance there is air in the modulator causing the problem ? How could I be 100% its out ??

If it is the modulator then I may get rid of the ABS.. Is there any reason why I shouldn’t leave the front
ABS operational and plumb directly from the cylinder to caliper ?

Has anyone took the ABS off a K with the paralever, do you have any suggestions for the type of fitting and route for the pipes and hoses ???

Thanks in advance
Malcolm Moorhouse
Joburg,
South Africa.

I don't know how the ABS1 system works , i've the ABS 2 on my bike but if you want to get rid of the ABS system, it seems to be easy to do. Her in France i've some friends who own motobikes on which the ABS system has been removed and they have no problem to ride on. For example, all the bikes used by television networks to work on bicycle races have no ABS , because they use much more large batteries to provide power to the tv material .

Renaud

I removed the entire ABS system from a written-off (pranged, crashed) '96 R1100RS that I was rebuilding. It was a simple, surgical procedure. I replaced all of the rubber hydraulic lines with the appropriate length braided steel lines as in a normal, non-linked braking system. I plumbed them as a non-ABS motorbike is plumbed. You would be quite surprised what the early ABS systems weigh.

I would not plug the rear ABS hydraulic line and leave the front portion of the ABS working. If you want fault codes and warning lights flashing you'll have it, not to mention irregular brake operation. There is likely, after definitively eliminating a problem with the seals on your rear master cylinder, a circuit in the ABS that's
karked it. Have you priced one of those units lately?

Here's that old R1100RS and me at PIR, Portland Oregon in 2003.

Hi all,
Here is what I’ve done to the rear brake.
I’ve fitted a 2.5cm longer brake pipe from the master cylinder to the caliper. The extra length gives me a nice vertical loop too allow for swingarm movement.
The modulator ports are plugged.
The brake bled easily and works well, the ABS light still goes out when ridden a couple of meters.
I expect the ABS is still functional on the front wheel.
Malcolm