BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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xpc316e

xpc316e
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I need to replace a fork seal on my freshly-acquired K1100LT.  I have removed the stanchions, and successfully undone the 8mm allen bolt that holds the slider onto the stanchion.  Having done that, I expected to be able to just pull the slider off, but although it does slide off a long way there still seems to be something holding it on.

Do I just gently apply a bit of force, or is there something I am missing?  I have checked my Clymer manual, and the works manual, but they both seem to imply that having removed the allen bolt, the slider can be slid off.


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VIN 0191428, 1991 K100LT, formerly owned by Lancashire Constabulary. This old warhorse is now 'out to grass' and living in retirement in Suffolk, where it will be showered with appropriate love and care.

VIN 6459609, 1992 K1100LT, another ex-Police machine, even though she now looks like she is a former fire engine.
    

Guest

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Not sure what you mean, but I just took the front wheel off, removed the forks from the bike and removed the old seal and fitted the new over the shiny part. Has not leaked for a year now.

    

mike d

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Near the base of each fork tube there is a removable bushing. It may have got caught and opened up, thus preventing removal of the tube from the fork leg.

Mike

    

xpc316e

xpc316e
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Thanks chaps; all it needed was a bit more confidence, a tug, and a twist.  The sliders are now off, and will soon have new seals.


__________________________________________________
VIN 0191428, 1991 K100LT, formerly owned by Lancashire Constabulary. This old warhorse is now 'out to grass' and living in retirement in Suffolk, where it will be showered with appropriate love and care.

VIN 6459609, 1992 K1100LT, another ex-Police machine, even though she now looks like she is a former fire engine.
    

MikeP

MikeP
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Just in case you have an old service manual:

The new seals have to go on over the stanchion top. Then pressed home into the slider once it is back on.

If you fit the seals to the sliders then reverse the removal procedure, the bushing will damage the seal's inner lip and it will fail.


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1992 K1
1993 K1100R (used to be an LT)
    

xpc316e

xpc316e
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Thanks for that tip Mike.  I have not yet got round to that bit of the job (interrupted by some emergency plumbing), so that was most timely.


__________________________________________________
VIN 0191428, 1991 K100LT, formerly owned by Lancashire Constabulary. This old warhorse is now 'out to grass' and living in retirement in Suffolk, where it will be showered with appropriate love and care.

VIN 6459609, 1992 K1100LT, another ex-Police machine, even though she now looks like she is a former fire engine.
    

MikeP

MikeP
Life time member
Life time member
As you've mentioned plumbing:

To seat the seal once it has been slipped over the stanchion, BMW have a split special tool. A push fit UPVC pipe fitting will do the same job:

Trying to disassemble K1100 front forks K1%20BMW%20%28396%29-M

You may need to remove that inner "stop" moulding. Then I slip an old headstock bearing shell over the stanchion as it's a perfect match for the seal face and then press down the pipe (alternatively, tap it gently with a small soft faced mallet):

Trying to disassemble K1100 front forks K1%20BMW%20%28405%29-L

If the seal is lubricated with red rubber grease it will just press home:

Trying to disassemble K1100 front forks K1%20BMW%20%28407%29-M

I only found out that the manual had been updated with the 'over the top' method of fitting courtesy of Inge after a couple of failed attempts to replace one.


__________________________________________________
1992 K1
1993 K1100R (used to be an LT)
    

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