looking good there rob !!

Nice

Cheers Guys, but not done yet, there's a lot of fluid to change out

More pics.

really nice Work   

k-rider

Hey Robin, I bet it felt good to get it out in the sunlight. Is that a different seat or have you re-worked the one that was on it?

I got the tail and seat from Ghosty. The original was a reproduction of an early type with no handles, which is why the panniers don't fit anymore. I think the seat has been recovered but without rego I can't ride it to try it out. I should get it all sorted and back on the road this month. Rear tyre is over 10 years old so there's another couple of hundred straight up 

good result Rob. I like the coloured screen deck. I presume it matches the pannier colour which ill tie the two end niely together. If you are youing a k1100 top box and rack the grab handles have to come off anyway that might allow the panniers to go on without adjustment to the rack.

The original plan was for the screen deck/motor mount and panniers to be the same and at one point they where  Panniers ended up with a red flake finish instead of red pearl but they both look black in the shade. I have just ordered a rear rack off ebay. It's coming from the UK so I expect 3 weeks till it arrives, then I can tinker with this non BMW top box and the krauser panniers and try to get them all to fit. In the mean time, the R-RT is in the workshop for a little TLC before someone answers the bikessales.com add and wants to inspect it  

Still plugging away at the K1100 and have checked the chain and swapped a couple of shims. No issues, all looks good, everything is back in and torqued, just need to get the covers back on.



I have most of the fluids etc here to change everything, just need an air filter, fork oil and spark plugs.

Where are you buying plugs? Had a look on ebay and they all come from outside Oz?

just go to the local guys rob ...if you cant buy ngks for under $4.00  there is something wrong

do not believe the iridium bs and pay 20 +
if you really want a good plug look at platinums ...if your the lazy type and don't need to go back there every 30,000 k ...still $20 +unfortunately

Hey Charlie, if you think this will be in my garage 30K Kms from now, your dreaming   

I did search supercheap for NGK DR7EA but got a not found?

forget about the dr7ea for the moment

measure your leads

if there is 5k or more along the length you don't need the internal resistor  ...if so ... d7ea are the go

I have a local (read old and sensible supplier of all auto parts ...and shall remain a secret) that gets them in at a days notice in not on hand ...but he usually does

the extra resistance was a design enforcement by federal administrators to reduce radio interference from copper leads ...but you have to remember that this was back in the day before carbon (shudder ) or silicon leads made their way into commonplace use ..

did a search also sc only commonly carry d8ea ...so give them a miss

there are other parts suppliers rob ...you should really have a serious look around ....these are the types of guys that if you show some enthusiasm and loyalty will bend over back wards  to offer alternatives on both price and availability ....but you have to be able to pick the good from the junk ...I guess

Reading here got me worried so I had a look at my K, plugs were NGK D7EA but the leads were 8mm silicon with no resistor, unable to use a spare set that I have as one lead is faulty so searched good old E'bay for NGK DR7EA plugs. found some in the UK, $13.24 plus $8.60 postage. Bought and waiting for their arrival.
See the link below.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321057778674?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Have read somewhere on here that running with no resistor can permanently damage the ignition module.

Regards Bushy

Bugger all automotive shops round here Charlie, closest is Capalaba or Coorparoo but I'll see if the repco round the corner are interested in ordering for me, they have never been able to do anything for me before. If it's not a holden/ford they are not interested. I can always do what Bushy did and get em off shore but it's a long wait. 

I'll measure the leads but they look like the real deal and I expect them to be ok.

I was thinking the guys down at capalaba rob ....  they have a long reputation ...but they moved ..over the last 10 years ...haven't caught up with them yet ......used to be a good source of bits when I lived around wynumm area

maybe I could get you some locally ...give me a yell after measuring the leads ... and maybe I could drop them off ?

Try a Honda Dealer

RicK G wrote:Try a Honda Dealer

nods, one search I did showed them as honda outboard plug  :suspect:

The Suzuki VN800 use them
http://www.onlineautomotive.com.au/DR7EA-NGK-Spark-Plug

Cheers Rick, $22.75 for 4 delivered.

Those plugs arrived quick, they attempted delivery yesterday, I picked them up this morning. They are in and she's running again. I don't want to run it for too long, the gasket goo on the chain cover hasn't gone off 100% yet, tomorrow it should be good to go.

I went to see how hard it will be to pull out the water temp sensor to flush the cooling system. I was expecting to see a sensor where the plug normally is on a K100 but I see 2 sensors. What am I looking at here. I have a factory manual for this one and it shows a plug so it's way wrong. Here's a pic.

Top is temp lower is oil pressure

Ahh, cheers, best not pull the wrong one

RicK G wrote:Top is temp lower is oil pressure

Hm, it's opposite on this side of the globe............coolant temp. is the lower one.

Oh schmidt I'm getting as bad at that as my left/right thing

I found this pic of a K100, if Red is oil, then Yellow is water.
This factory manual is useless in this area.

hmmm tell tale oil leak out the breather tube to the water - oil pump too
you can see it gathering just in front of the oil filter cover plate

gotta love them old 8 valve gals eh ?

Twas just a random pic google found for me Charlie.

On the topic of water temp sensors, the one in the pump runs the gauge, the other one in behind the airbox goes to the computer and also triggers the temp lamp in the instruments. Does that one have 2 outputs or are the instruments triggering the lamp at a preset level?

the one at the pump is for the accessory instruments

the sensor at the water stub is different on the 16 valve- motronic units and is a single sensor ....with both positive and negative terminals at the connector ....which differs from the earlier systems

the motronic drives all the bits after that ...I believe there is a relay for the fan though

does that help ?

So the computer triggers the over temp lamp in the instruments. Just good to know how it all works

On the 8v engines it is a 2 part sensor ,one side for computer and light the other for the fan trigger with the gauge sensor on the pump.
On the 16v engines it is just one sensor for computer, fan and light with the gauge sensor still on the pump.

Cheers rick, I thought there was a 2 part sensor in the mix someplace. I'll see if the fan works tomorrow, I'm going to make it hot and change engine/gearbox/drive fluids and water. Getting close now. 

Got some fork oil organised today as well. Any idea why it wants 350mm in one leg and 400mm in the other?

rick the temp light is driven by the temp sensing relay

over temp engine management is done in the computers and does not have any output display 

on the 8 valve jobbies

16 valve ...its all onboard the 'puter

my override  switch brings the measuring of the temp sensing relay really low ...which also brings on the lamp

nothing to do with the computer stuff

well what happens for me

just for clarification

RobinW wrote:Cheers rick, I thought there was a 2 part sensor in the mix someplace. I'll see if the fan works tomorrow, I'm going to make it hot and change engine/gearbox/drive fluids and water. Getting close now. 

Got some fork oil organised today as well. Any idea why it wants 350mm in one leg and 400mm in the other?

If you disassemble both legs they take 400 each but because one side doesn't drain completely only 350 is required.

There must be an open piston in one leg. The fische on maxbmw doesn't show it. That leaves 50ml of old oil in one leg. 
Ducati's idea of turning the legs upside down to drain them is looking better and better  

Ducati's idea of turning the legs upside down to drain them is looking better and better  
BMW insist it is better to remove them from the bike before attempting such a difficult maneuver.

don't think it was ducati's idea
there has always been a strive to remove "unsprung weight " and by moving the forks ....erm upside down achieved this ...hands down, no arguments

I think that along with developments   one leg for damping and one leg for rebound was a great idea in its time ...and the showa forks seemed to do this well after they bound the whole lot  with a forks cross brace on the sliding parts ...

charlie99 wrote:don't think it was ducati's idea

I was jocking, it has Showa type GD081 forks on it. I'm sure it's their idea

RobinW wrote: Any idea why it wants 350mm in one leg and 400mm in the other?

It's a hole in the bottom of the cartridge on one side, which is missing on the other side.
This is also mentioned in the OEM shop manual (and a drawing).

Don't see that in this manual Inge but it is huge, prolly didn't look hard enough.

I'm all done, all fluids are renewed. Motor oil and left fork leg oil looked black and well used, everything else looked recent including the right fork leg? I even got the carbtune out and gave the BBScrews a tweek. Just need a new back tyre and we're ready for rego.

woohoo

I've been tooling about with a Ducati for the last week or so, got a new clutch slave into it, fitted a new front tyre that I got off TWB some months ago and fixed some issues in the fuel tank so it will be coming out of the garage and going back on the road. Even though that tyre is 2 years old, Wooo Hooo, what a difference, you can think it round corners. I still have a set of timing belts to go into it but I am waiting for a fairing screw kit to arrive before pulling it apart again and that's maybe 4 weeks away.

So the KBike is going back into the garage. There is a slight knocking noise coming out of the clutch/ alternator area and I haven't pulled the gearbox out of it yet so it's time to get in there for a look. After finding all those issues with the Duke after getting rego on it, I want this one to be ready for rego. I have managed to get the pannier brackets spaced away from the tail handles and the panniers are back on. I'm now not sure on their colour, maybe they do need to be the same colour as the bike. Here's a night time pic, I'll try and get one under sunlight before it goes into the garage. Right now they are red metal flake over black with a hint of bronze pearl. What do you think?

Because they aren't original panniers they do look OK but they would look really good if they were the same colour.
Gotta get it on the road Nindigully is fast approaching.

I do have a little red left, there might just be enough, but I would definately need more clear coat.

I doubt I can get away over the Mothers day week-end Rick although I was thinking of surprising her with cheap plane tickets to Sydney for that week-end so she can get away with friends. Thinking outside the box   

I won't have rego on the KBike till June. The money tree out back is dying and the LT needs tyres as well.

I do have a Ducati that's working and the panniers are back on the bike. 

The k is really looking good.
in my opinion the panniers should be same color as the bike ,
but hey , its your bike , and besides it would be a shame covering all the good work you have allready done on the panniers ,


k-rider

You guys are right, I'll take my red paint left overs back and get them to match another 300Mls for the panniers. I want a bit left in the pot for touch ups with a brush.

K-rider, I used these as practice before painting the rest of the bike. The paint is so thick I had to slice it away from the latches so they would turn again   I'll just sand it off and  have another go

I'm also going to bring forward the rego on this bike to get it on the road. That means a new back tyre as well. Total will be over $600 to get it on the road for a measly 6 months.

Unfortunately the ergonomics on the ducati do not suit my frame and it will be sold.

Unfortunately the ergonomics on the ducati do not suit my frame and it will be sold.

Sorry to hear it didnt work out with the duc.
But hopefully you will make a buck or two ,to pay for the rego and new tyre

k-rider