Anyone dealt w/this before?

I used PB Blaster on it overnight when I saw it was taking more effort that the two truly visible allen head screws but to no avail.

Had a long proper-sized allen head bit in my ratchet and it just flat stripped it inside.

Verified by taking out the starter to see and get more room.

Anyone dealt w/this before?

Any solution other than dropping the engine/tranny to get it out w/bolt extractor on an impact wrench?

Any experiences shared would be appreciated.

TIA,

Brad

Get a 5/16in drill and drill the head of the bolt, remove the alternator and the stub will probably come out by hand.
A torx bit will often hammer into the hole and give you one more go.

That's one of the bolts where there always ends up being a fair amount of corrosion in the threads. That, and the fact that the last time it was turned was probably when it was torqued on the assembly line.

Because of this, I usually remove the coils and use the really good 6mm Allen wrench from the factory toolkit with a piece of "persuader" pipe on the end.

PB blaster isn't that great for stuff like this.  Usually heating the bolt up with a small torch works better on stubborn bolts.

I agree on drilling the head off. If the stub doesn't come out by hand then crank down on it with some Vise-Grips to break it free.

You might want to consider putting anti-seize on the threads when re-installing.  I always do.

I'll break out my mini-torch and heat it up, then try using my easy-outs first -if I can figure a way to keep pressure on it while turning w/a breaker bar...

I always use anti-seize when I put bolts into aluminum.  Goes along w/being anal...

Thanks guys.  If I can't get it w/the rear wheel/tire and front part of the fender on the bike will remove them to get at it - don't have a right angle drill.

Will be a good opportunity to pull the tranny back and lube the clutch splines...

Of course, I also have a 4V engine & tranny that I could put in...but I don't want to do that until I'm ready to Micro-Squirt it...