Morning,
Yesterday during a 100 mile jolly I noticed that my voltmeter was steadily dropping value and not picking up at all regardless of revs. The charge light was flickering at 1k rpm and below but went out above that. Turned off all lights and accessories and got home with an indicated 9 and a bit V. Put the battery on charge. Drank beer.

Did a leakage test this a.m.

- Key out
- Disconnected -ve lead
- Voltmeter across -ve battery terminal and lead 13+v (same as across battery terminals)
- Switched off +ve isolator, leakage dropped to a few mV
- Isolator back on turned key on, leakage dropped by under 1v to 12 something
- Turned key off and started pulling fuses 1 at a time
- The clock/indicator fuse reduced leakage to a few mV
- I use the clock power from the fuse box to run my sat nav instead of the clock with the Earth lead connected to the starter relay -ve. Disconnected sat nav wiring, no change to leakage numbers
- Disconnected the +ve leads from alternator and eliminated all but the heavier of the two reds that feed into the relay box which continued to show the leakage when connected to the +ve battery lead
- Disconnected the starter relay terminals, leakage unchanged
- Disconnected the flasher unit and leakage dropped to a few mV
- Inspected flasher internals, no obvious heat or other damage, Reconnected unit, removed all indicator bulbs and leads, still leaking.

My lock down projects have all mostly been electrical, including fairing off and wiring up 3 accessory rockers, re wiring my aux fuse box (disconnected for these tests), seat unit and rear lights / indicators off and unplugged. Plus installed a used 50 amp alternator.

Thoughts please on my diagnostic process, sound or rabbit hole?

I’m assuming its a short in the flasher unit. Even though all the flashers work.

I’ve looked at the testing vid in the download section, but would rather spend the money replacing the unit than on the 200 mini croc clips needed to do the testing.
Are there any quick flasher unit tests?

Have I isolated the problem, or have I missed an entire section of ‘obvious’?

Thanks as always folks.

Dead simple, your alternator is not charging. You are complicating the whole thing, the battery only exists to start the bike and then is redundant. The alternator supplies all the volts to charge the battery and supply the power when the engine is running.
Things like GPS and clock use hardly anything.

Thanks Bob, would have been my first thought too but I had reason to believe that wasn’t the case. So went by the book (clymer) which starts with a leakage test.

Oh shit.

Check the blue wire on the alternator. If that's not the problem, PM me and I'll send you a new regulator.

"Drank beer.

Did a leakage test this a.m."

I have the same problem 

From here it looks like I have some missing posts, so if you’ve seen this before, apologies.

Ringfad, thanks. I needed a grin as I think I have blown the EFI unit setting up the alternator output test.

Dai, no sweat. Can’t tell yet (see above) but I am getting an exciter field as the glow light comes on below 1k rpm and goes out above (as per yesterday).

BobT has cut to the chase but I am still intrigued by the leakage test results, irrelevant or not. Chasing the ghosts. Anyone have a view on what I’m seeing/measuring?

Will continue with the alt test tomorrow. atm it seems I have no fuel pumping although the pump is running, I have sparks so assume HES and ECU ok. Tank has been on its side all day as I was playing with relays so may be connected.

If I needed to be anywhere I’d be pissed off.

I have a spare FICU...? If you're still running (!!) what's the voltage on the big red wire on the alternator when revved? Do NOT disconnect the battery - it acts as a partial excess voltage sink.

Thanks Dai. I have what was a working spare. Tomorrow should see it running again once I can get some fuel moving. Not sure if Ive blown the FICU or not. Just got to work thru the diagnostic.

Ringfad wrote:"Drank beer.

Did a leakage test this a.m."

I have the same problem 

If you are stuck a hose clamp is a good fix.

Anyone know if the hose from the fuel pump should be connected to the filter?

So, anyway, bike is running again and the alternator is not charging. Dai dont worry about the regulator unless you have them coming out your ears. I’ll check out the brushes and sort it out from there.

Glad that I installed that voltmeter.

Thanks all.

PS. While I was working in the relay box chasing the original fault I had the fuel tank   on its side against the fairing. I reckon I kinked the output line and pump pressure forced the filter hose off.