Hi all out there. I have been reading the latest post re the non-start with interest but it is not solving my problem. I think my issue is a little more basic.

Background is that I have previously owned a K75 and assorted other bikes. I have been bikeless for 4 years and it hurt a little too much!

I got hold of a 1986 K100 RS 2V and have spent the last 4 months pottering and fixing it up It was a bit sad cosmetically. It ran well on the only trip I made from sellers home to my home. I started stripping it right away thinking it would only take a couple of weeks.... I have replaced filters, plugs, oils, serviced alternatr, starrter motor switches, spline regrease etc etc etc. I live in a place called Broome in northern Western Australia. The nearest BMW mechanic is 2200kms in one direction (Perth) and 1900kms in the other direction (Darwin). There are no other K100 bikes in town I can compare this with...

I also recently had it repainted. The tank had some fine traces of dirt etc in it so I washed it out thoroughly (with water) and rinsed with petrol prior to painting. It had been stored inside a garage with fuel in it prior to this. Put it all back together last weekend (new fuel filter)and tried to fire it up yesterday (Saturday in Australia)

It cranks over strongly but will not fire up! Now for the questions:

Q1. Have I got the fuel lines replaced correctly? On the front LHS of the tank there is a fuel line that goes into the inards of the bike. Next is the 4 cable plug and behind that is the second fuel line whic has a thick foam protection piece on it and goes into the fuel rail. ARE THESE CORRECT?

Q2. When the above fuel lines are disconnected: a) fuel freely flows from the front pipe. b) nothing comes out of the second pipe. If I blow really hard on this second line I can hear a little air going back into the tank???

Q3. Is the fuel pump working? I have checked the fuse. In the "other" article it states you should be able to hear the fuel pump operating when you hit the ignition switch. I don't "think" I can...How loud and noticible should it be? When I disconnect the second rear fuel line and hit the starter button should fuel pump from this line?

Q4. Can I check the fuel pump in some way without removing it from my freshly painted tank? i.e. can I apply voltage directly to the electrical plug on the tank? If so, which pins are they? In the schematic diagram the two wires from the fuel pump go to the four wired plug and change colours...

Regards

Mal WELLS

Hey Mal

Ok I am a bit further than your closest mechanic, but I will try with the basic.
When you push the starter switch (1/2 second), you should hear the fuel pump going. The noise of the pump should last for a short while after you release the starter switch.
The 2 lines coming out of the tank are in fact one in one out.
The front one is the return and if the gas is leaking it must be a 1985 bike where the one way valve has been removed. The one way valve was very noisy and a lot of people removed it (me first). In the later models, the return line goes from the bottom to the top of the tank. This way BMW avoided to install the one way valve.
the tank line closer to you knees is the pressure line. Just remove it and push the starter. It should squirt gas.
If not, your pump is not running.
On the 1985 models, the round electrical plug going to the tank has the tendency to get loose. Just unplug it and with a pair of long nose pliers re-tight the connectors.
The Green/white wire should be the positive for the fuel pump.

Bert

Hi Mal,
First check is all fuses are conducting OK. Don't think your model had the side stand fuel pump running inhibit but that can catch one out engine spins like a top but no running.

A safe(ish) spot to test the fuel pump is to take the pipe off the fuel rail and crank it over. fuel shout squirt out. If fuel squirts out you know the pump is running.

If the pump will not run use a test light to see if the fuel pump is powered when you go to start. If it is powered but will not run and the earth is also OK at the same time then I suspect the pump has jammed.

You can try direct application of power as suggested by Bert to see if it will run without the starter motor cranking if it does then the supply or earth is faulty. Annoyingly the pumps are known to fail after sitting for a time in stale fuel.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Thanks to both of you.

I sat pondering this morning and came up with the answer.

Unfortunately the answer was not completely simply. I think that is why I posted the request. That part in the back of my brain that said "Remove the fairing that you have so carefully just put on, take off the fuel tank, remove the fuel pump and see what is happening" was fighting the other part of my brain that said "It can't be anything major - you won't have to remove anything..."

The hard part of the brain won! I have just removed the fuel pump and it was not working. Had seized while in situ. It was making a loud single click sound obviously trying to turn. An hour later of WD40, contact cleaner, reversing the polarity on the motor part, gentle tapping has got it working. Just put it all back and returned the tank to bike.

You info re the fuel lines was helpful. Thanks. Now the battery ha gone flat so I will need other alternative power! It cranked over with a little contact cleaner sprayed in the air intake. It is running a little fast but I think that may be the contact cleaner and the throttle and/or choke cables.

Will let you know how I get on.

Regards

Mal

PS the fuel pump came out easier than I thought. THe only pain was the undoing of the wire connectors. On re-installing the wires reach far enough to allow you to connect then before you place the pump back into the holder. Next time(???) I would
a) remove the fuel line
b) remove the pump from the holder and then
c) undo the wires

Just a thought.

Hi Bert & K-Bike and other readers

The fuel pump is going fine but still no start...

Reading the "Other" no start I am at the fuel injection voltage stage:

K-BIKE wrote:Hi Folks,
I went and measured the voltage on the fuel injection rail on my K100 RS 4V which has a slightly different FI set-up in that the power is not on all the time but is only on whilst the pump runs which is about 1 1/2 seconds when you turn on the ignition. The crunch is the voltage is only 0.4 volts below the voltage measured off the battery so with a 2 volt drop I begin to suspect that Roy has a bad joint or a duff relay contact, especially as his circuit diagram shows two relay contacts only one of which supplies the fuel pump and the other the injectors. Roy can I suggest you whip the tank off (easier said than done and take out the relay and check for any poor connections with its socket and its base.
Regards,
K-BIKE

I likewise seem to have Nil volts from either pin on two leads I checked until I hit the start button. I then have approx 12 volts (very sad multimeter) from both pins.

Do I have to check the relay? (Please say no as I am becoming bored with taking the tank on and of...) or should I look elsewhere?

Regards

Mal

PS I didn't know which post to send this to so will continue on my little own way...

Hi Mal,
All injectors are all in parallel, that is all the positives are commoned with the other positives and all earths are commoned with the other injector earths. The +12 volts comes via the relay down to a plug and socket on the injector. The earth comes via the above earth common from pin 12 on the EFI unit. Same as roy I am afraid you need to diagnose with the meter and clean earth connections on the spine under the tank and down by the footrest. Only when the earth are all clean can you be sre all volts will do their job. With the contact cleaner be aware some of them are fire extinguishing liqids not combustible. Use carb cleaner into the air intake to give it a pep in combustion but honestly you should not need that the bike used to start and run without that. Have you tested petrol sprays out when you undo the hose on the fuel rail? That would prove the pump is pumping not at what pressure but pumping.
Regards,
K-Bike

Hi Mal,

Sorry K-Bike I was sending this at the same time and I don't think I have contradicted anything you said. Can't say we aren't keen to help

Firstly I am in the same country but just as far away as Bert or your nearest mechanic. I think we are all getting sick of taking the tanks off but K-Bike had the suggestion of propping up the tank far enough to get at the relay box which I tried successfully tonight while looking for some information for Roy who has a similar problem.

If your pump runs and you are getting 12V on the injector plug it means the relay is working. The injector will fire when the FI controller switches the 12V to ground, so I would first check the large connector under the tool tray then double check all the earths, the main one being under the tank....

Next question are you getting a spark??

Also worth checking while you have the tank off is the ignition switch as it is worth removing, carefully dismantling and cleaning and it made a huge difference with my bike both in the way it starts and now runs as it appears to supply power, in series with the kill switch, to the ignition control unit. In my case the switch contacts had to be lightly filed as cleaning on its own had no effect. If you don't wont to dismantle the switch just check the resistance at the connection as you operate the switch and so long as it is consistently low it should be ok.

Regards,

Phil

Hi Phil

Just posted on the end of the other "Won't run" post and saw yours...

I have just proped up the tank as you suggested and fiddled with the relays as per "other" post.

Again repeating, I don't get 12V until I hit the start button - which makes me think it may be the relay. Hence the "other" post re the interchanging of relays from Bert etc...

Have re-checked and sandpapered the contacts on the fuses, relays etc. I had already rebuilt the starter switch and the starter motor. These both work well and strongly...

Have had enough as I am working in Broome and the humidity is appaling at present! So will pack up and have a beer and think about it (yet) again.

Thanks to all on both posts for not only coming up with ideas and knowledge but for also acting as sounding boards when people really can work it out but aren't 100% aware they know more thann they think!

Regards

Mal

Mal beer sounds good and will probably work wonders in solving the problem or at least making it forgettable for a while.

Now according to the circuit diagram I have, with ignition on and kill switch on (they are in series) you will have 12V to one side of the relay coil but it will not go on until it gets a signal from the Ignition control unit which is when the pump and therefore the injector should get 12V which only happens when the starter is pressed. So that sounds ok to me.

I must admit it is quite bizarre to have two bikes having essentially the same fault at the same time so if we can just fix one....

Regards,

Phil

Hi Guys,
The other thing I noted on the BMW circuit diagram for Roy's year is one diagram showed a double pole relay with the common to +12 volts and the two outputs wired so one powers the injectors and the other powers the pump, so with one dodgy relay contact it is possible to have pump but no injector power or vice versa. The annoying thing was another diagram for the same year showed a 4 pole relay with both injectors and pump fed off the same relay pole. The other crunch when checking supply power is how much current capacity is there? With a high resistance feed the meter could well show 12 volts as the meter draws no current worth worrying about. But when the injector gets an earth pulse the low resistance of the injector effectively pulls the high impedance supply down to earth potential. That is another problem with digital meters they are slow to respond so a stream of pulses won't be seen on them when reading voltage. The old fashioned pointer instrument however gives a waggle on the needle when pulses come through. I feel inclined to pop a decent lamp say 20 watts and feed that off the injector feed and then fuel pump feed in both cases earth the lamp to the chassis NOT the EFI line that fires the injectors. The light should light completely steadily whilst crankin showing that the relay can at least supply the light without a problem not just a meter.

Troubleshooting on an old machine can be frustrating but immensely rewarding because it makes one think things through and test and infer from the results of the tests - brain gymnastics. Keep the faith and we will together solve this for both bikes without doing the PFY (Pimply Faced Youth) throw parts at it till it works method of problem solving.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Amen brother but I have to say I like my digital multimeter and as such could we try the meter on AC (I have not worked out the firing frequency but I suspect too low) and I also have access to a digital meter with a frequency setting on it, which I have not tried but I think I may have to just for research.

In defence of the PFY it is quite often more expedient (and cheaper) to throw parts at a problem rather than to fault find to component level. I agree it is very rewarding but my first option once a problem becomes a little circular is to try different parts to at least change the fault. Unfortunately very few of us live within "cooee" of one another so we will just have to follow the path of salvation and look for that nice cool concrete wall.

Regards,

Phil

Mal, just a quick question from one of your earlier posts. Did you say the bike started and ran after you squirted some contact cleaner in the intake?

Regards,

Phil

Hi Phil

Yes it did fire over but ran for 15-20 seconds at approx 2000rpm so I shut it down. I think it was the contact cleaner that was igniting. It would not restart either with or without the squirt of contact cleaner.

It is now Friday evening. I have ordered a new FI relay and am awaiting that. I now have the added issue of the fuel pump not working again so will have to remove it tomorrow and have a look. Last weekend it wasn't working as it had seized up. I was able to clear it and it was working well. I will investigate tomorrow...

Regards

Mal

PS to all - please don't stress out over this as it is not "life or death". I/we will get this thing going again - soon!

My 1989 K100RS bike will not start either and has the same type problems as Roy's bike. I started on a ride and went about 20 feet when my bike died. When I attempted to restart the bike the engine turned over but there was no firing or misfiring.

1. I have good spark on all four good sparkpugs.
2. I have fuel, fuel flow, and good fuel pump pressure. My fuel pump is about 6 month old puts out about 70psi. I have not checked as yet the fuel pressure regulator but I feel that is not defective.
3. I checked and have approximately 11.8 dc volts at the fuel injector plug positive wire and ground.
4. I have swapped the fuel injector and ignition control units with known good used units.
5. I have cleaned all ground wires.
6. I have checked all fuses and relays.
7. I have visually checked the wiring harnesses also using an OHM meter to check for wiring continunity.
8. I have a good battery with a good charge.
9. The bike is a daily rider and has always runs well.
10. When I attempt to start the engine, I get no fuel from the FI injectors into engine and I do not get any firing or misfiring when attempt to start the bike

I would appreciate any and all suggestions, comments or recommendation. I am looking forward to getting my daily driver back on the road. I will be going back and repeating my checks listed above.


Bill
billhutchsat@hotmail.com
San Antonio, TX

Hi Bill

"Not that I would know" but ...I can't easily think why it won't go. I am sure some of the other gurus who are assisting me will no doubt throw in some good ideas soon.

I can only think FI relay . How do you know there is no fuel coming out the injectors (#10)? Have you removed and had a look?

Mal

Hi all

I have finally got it going today. That's the good news. Now the bad...

I had not replaced the FI relay as per previous post as it is still in the post...

It had been cantankerous on cranking but wanted to go. Over 10 minutes of effort finally got a hit! However it revs to 3,500pm. The throttle will add to that i.e. works as per normal. The choke had no effect either way.

Could this possibly be why it had previously not fired: if it has been on a fuel input that wants to sit at 3,500rpm then it could be have simply been flooding??? It had backfired a few times while I have tried to start it.

I examined the choke and it seems to be working ok. It returns to the normal position and the cable is routed freely. Ditto with throttle. My understanding from my previous K75 was that the injection choke was really only a fast idle setup. This has led me to undo the choke cable at the handgrip. The cable runs smoothly as above. However with the bike running (at 3,55rpm) pulling on the cable manually makes no difference. I assume this is ok.

It has to be something physical doesn't it? I will check the throttle cable again but am a bit stuck...tHe throttle at the engine section returns to the stop but it just sounds like it is something physical. Could it be something ie the fast idle for the choke "stuck" on inside somewhere?

Have typed this, had a cup of coffee and a think. Let the Brick have a little rest. Have just gone outside and it continues to fire up happily but runs straight to 3,500...

Regards

Mal Wells

Hi all.

I just posted a message but again as more of a sounding board...

Hands up who is an idiot? Oh that must be me with my hand up!

Just pulled apart the throttle cable at the handle bar. Seems the current idiot owner (me) had the cable badly adjusted so that the poor old bike wanted to sit on 3,500. Have it all sorted. It is misfiring at idle randomly but I think after allthese months not running it may jest need a bit of a clean out run...

Bill, read the link in Electrical http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/electrical-f8/fuel-injection-1985-k100rt-no-squirt-t196.htm
that refers to non-spurting of injectors. Phil has reminded us that the main injection connector located under the tool tray can come a lit loose causing problems. I read it and looked at mine - it was loose. I wouldn't be surprised it this could have been or added to my problems...

Again, I thank all of you immensly for your time and patience over my issues and ramblings. I have learnt much over this past week or so. It makes me appreciate owning the K75 from new which just ran and ran and ran (hindsight tell me I should never have sold it...)

Have included a picture of my relays FYI. One question though, there is a round white connector in the centre of the picture which has no plug. I am assuming it is just a blank in the wiring harness?

https://i.servimg.com/u/f66/13/56/81/27/dsc00012.jpg


Regards and best wishes to you all

Mal

Firstly Mal I don't think any us will get too stressed out as we are part of a fairly exclusive club and I think our main aim is to keep riding not fixing so we will sort it out one way or another. Anything that keeps the brain ticking over staves off dementia but then we are motorcycle riders so you don't have to be mad to own one but it does help

Secondly Bill I would suggest as per K-Bike you check your side stand switch assuming you have one. I don't know what the model year was when it was implemented but it appears it will allow everything but firing.

Regards,

Phil

Hi Folks,
From looking at my circuit diagram the side stand switch stops the fuel injection hence my bike spins over on the starter but no sign of any firing. The spare connector from memory is for the optional BMW bike alarm system which plugs onto that.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Cablebeacher,

I am looking at the picture of your electrical box and found 2 sockets for extra relays. I am not familiar with the 1986rs, but what are they?
Would it be for an electric windshield? I know that the LT has 2 extra relays.
Maybe the LT and RS have the same electrical box...
Was your bike an ex police bike and this would be for optional equipment?
I am puzzled....

I looked at the picture and noticed a couple of differences and I thought will I or won't I. Then I thought I really don't want to revisit this so I would let sleeping dogs (or relays) lie.

To All...

I got my daily rider riding today from my My Bike won't start either. I am not quite sure why it failed to start but by checking it out, I learned alot about the Kbikes. I must have read and studied every post in the forum as well as my Clymer. Anyway my sincerest thanks To All....

Bill
San Antonio, TX

i fount that the battery ground may appear fine
but can be bad

red green wrote:i fount that the battery ground may appear fine
but can be bad

Hi,

Can you please provide more information on your findings?

Roy

Hi Folks the absolute proof of grounds is to test them and the Fluke article http://us.fluke.com/usen/support/appnotes/default?category=AP_AUTO%28FlukeProducts%29# is well worth reading.

Many of the problems people have with older EFI based vehicles bikes and cars can be traced back to bad earth grounds. This is because with EFI and Engine Management we are dealing with sensors which change current flows by very small amounts compared to the old Kettering ignition with amps at 12 volts punching through things to keep them electrically conducting.
Regards,
K-BIKE
Regards,
K-BIKE

have you tryed to manually fire the injectors. wire them up to a battery to see if the will spay a constant spray, u need to do this while the fuel pressure is applied by the bike, just remove the rail and all from the bike, leaving fuel lines connected, disconect your injector plugs and wire a connection to a battery and turn on your ignition and see if they spray on to the ground, test 1 at a time. sounds to me the injectors are either blocked or fried. if the injectors spay constantly when connected to the battery then the ecu is not switching to earth

Hi, when I worked on my RS it had been laid up for about 4 years and the tank was full of crap and water. The fuel pump wasn't working so I took it out and got water out of it and did my best to clean it up and maybe free up the workings. It did then start working again and makes a lot of noise - you couldn't miss it - like a high-pitched buzzing sound. You can get it out by removing the filler cap and should not damage new paint job I'd say. Check the wires into the tank LHS front are making good contact. This was a bit suspect on my bike.

Best,
Neal

Neal, you have a good point about water in the fuel.
In Roy's case, I believe that we have fuel pressure in the circuit, but nothing at the fuel injectors.
I personally want to get Roy's bike on the road as I think this is the most frustrating think to happen to a new K owner.
Roy is very good at following directions and when his bike will be on the road again, we will all have learned a lot about EFI. I personally learned a lot myself when trying to help him.
Thanks for your comments, and if you have any other idea that could help us to solve his problem please don't be shy to express it.
Sometimes, a simple question could be a solution to a complex problem.

Bert

Hi Guys

Have been watching this post for a couple of days now as my k100 rt wont restart,, Please let me explain,

I have had a problem with it not starting in very cold weather so after reading another forum where it was suggested that the coolant temp sensor may be on the blink, I got a new 1 and started to dismantle the bike, Everything went OK, removed Battery ,fairing , tank and Airbox, Then found the sensor behind the radiator so removed that as well, replaced with new one and started to reassemble, Charged the Bat while it was out, replaced a couple of dodgy looking hoses (fuel and coolant overflow) replaced airbox and radiator ,refilled with new coolant , and put the tank on and tried to start,,

It started fine , allthough the idle was a little low, so increased that,and shut the engine down ,, THEN tried to restart after a few seconds,
It would only go if I cranked it for 20 or 30 seconds,, once it started the exhaust was belching lots of black (fuel ) smoke but then it would clear and run and idle fine , But still wont restart as it did before I parked it in the shed, The only new bit is the Temp sensor, but it was brand new from the BMW dealer,,,Bloody Australia ,Im 400 k from my nearest dealer,, Any suggestions???

Thanks

Skip,,

Hi Skip,
Are you sure all of your earths and contacts are really clean and making good contact? Once you have that absolutely certain then you have to get the meter out and start hunting high resistances or bad contacts and the connections from the EFI computer to the end devices. Check that you get the right resistance on each of the connections when the big multi pin plug is unplugged from the EFI computer, note we are talking the resistances on the cable NOT connecting the meter to the EFI computer module. This means the circuit diagram needs tp be studied and the meter put onto various combinations of cable/plug pins to verify what you read.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Hi Skip,
Both K-Bike and Bert have done an enormous amount of research in this area and there is a nearly finished "My bike won't start" publication that should answer yours and just about everybody's problem in this regard as the whole system turns into a huge minefield.

In addition to K-bikes advise my suggestion is to gradually back track over all you have done to make sure you have not dislodged anything.
I know it sounds obvious but it happens all too often.

In your case you obviously have fuel but probably no or weak spark. Surprisingly bad contacts on the ignition switch can cause huge problems so it would not hurt to check the resistance at the connector under the tank (where else) and if necessary dismantle and clean.

Having said that the worse thing is to introduce another problem so just take some time and recheck everything, e.g. hoses around the right way etc.

Regards,

Phil

Thanks guys ,Ill give it a go, Heres a link to a ride I did a couple of weeks ago,

http://farriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=835.0

Thanks again Ill let you know how it goes,

skip

I just finished the EFI/Motronic troubleshooting page.
I did my best to include the maximum of information and give enough details to understand the way that it works and how to troubleshoot all components. (I spent a lot of time drawing schematics)
I have never found a site where they give you this type of information .
Some of the information come from the course notes of a French BMW technician and theoriginal documents were issued by BMW.
the page could be seen here: troubleshooting EFI/Motronic

Hi Skip off topic but a great forum you belong to and now bookmarked for a bit of light reading and a nice part of the country you live in.

I spent about four years in Sale and spent many an hour on the East Gippsland highway.

Regards,

Phil

Hi Bert,
Absolutely fantastic effort on the troubleshooting diagram, you deserve a medal. There is NOTHING else like this on the web that I have found and I have done a lot of searching. You are a star!
Regards,
K-BIKE

Thanks K-Bike. I am use to troubleshoot computer systems, and I took Micro$oft as a model to build my flow chart.
Here is an example for troubleshooting Windows Vista:

Vista_Error: 001 Vista loaded - Warning your computer is now in danger
Vista_Error: 002 No Error - Check again in 10 seconds
Vista_Error: 003 Dynamic linking error - Your mistake is now in every file
Vista_Error: 004 Erroneous error - Nothing is wrong (just testing)
Vista_Error: 005 Multitasking attempted - System confused
Vista_Error: 006 Kelvin error: Type Mismatch - phone Kevlar
Vista_Error: 007 System price error - Inadequate money spent on hardware
Vista_Error: 008 Broken window. Path not found - phone Glazier
Vista_Error: 009 Horrible bug encountered - Press F13 for more help
Vista_Error: 00A Invalid property assignment. Promotional literature overflow - Mailbox full
Vista_Error: 00B Inadequate disk space - Free at least 50GB
Vista_Error: 00C Memory hog error - More RAM needed. More! More! More!
Vista_Error: 00D Window closed - Do not look outside
Vista_Error: 00E Unexplained error - Please tell us how this happened
Vista_Error: 010 Reserved for future mistakes by our developers
Vista_Error: 013 Unexpected error - Huh ?
Vista_Error: 014 Keyboard locked - Try anything you can think of.
Vista_Error: 018 Unrecoverable error - System has been destroyed. Buy a new one. Old windows licence is not valid anymore.
Vista_Error: 019 User error - Not our fault. Is Not! Is Not!
Vista_Error: 01A Operating system overwritten - Please reinstall all your software. We are terribly sorry.
Vista_Error: 01B Illegal error - You are not allowed to get this error. Next time you will get a penalty for that.
Vista_Error: 01C Uncertainty error - Uncertainty may be inadequate.
Vista_Error: 01D System crash - We are unable to figure out our own code.
Vista_Error: 012 Virus error - A virus has been activated in a dos-box. The virus, however, requires Windows. All tasks will be closed automatically and the virus will be reactivated.
Vista_Error: 01E Timing error - Please wait. And wait. And wait. And wait.
Vista_Error: 01F Reserved for future mistakes of our developers.
Vista_Error: 020 Error recording error codes - Remaining errors will be lost.
Vista_Error: 079 Mouse not found - A mouse driver has not been installed. Please click the left mouse button to continue.
Vista_Error: 103 Error buffer overflow - Too many errors encountered. Next error will not be displayed or recorded.
Vista_Error: 678 This will end your Windows session. Do you want to play another game?
Vista_Error: 683 Time out error - Operator fell asleep while waiting for the system to complete boot procedure.
Vista_Error: 815 Insufficient Memory - Only 5,000 Gigabytes available.

I already have another schematic ready to troubleshoot a non turning starter. It will be posted soon.

Bert

That is HILARIOUS! I must send it to my son who is a software writer and a great Linux fan.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Gents, don't know if the problem of Cablebeacher has been resolved. Strike that, will read better next time!
The orange fitting on the left should have the injection relais. However the other fitting is not one that looks familiar.

Crazy Frog wrote:Cablebeacher,

I am looking at the picture of your electrical box and found 2 sockets for extra relays. I am not familiar with the 1986rs, but what are they?
Would it be for an electric windshield? I know that the LT has 2 extra relays.
Maybe the LT and RS have the same electrical box...
Was your bike an ex police bike and this would be for optional equipment?
I am puzzled....

Those are for the factory fog lights. The one to the right of the fuel relay is 8 and the one in the center is 9.