1987 K75 CR

Rick G · **101** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:10 am

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I should have checked the video out sooner but I only have a small limited download so I just tend to skip any videos.
There is a section on making a do hickey for testing the hall sensors on the portal page.
I haven't worked out how the hall sensors can cause that problem but seeing Ingapedia has said it I would believe that it happens. Worship

When you get that low volts/amps cutting out and back in it is usually a lot faster.

Holister · **102** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:05 am

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escodsm wrote:...... My battery reads 14.8 volts.

I clipped my meter to the battery while cranking....goes from 14.8 to 11.5 then back up to 13.6

If your battery is reading 14.8v it's way over charged. Max should be 14.4v. At 14.6v your battery will start to boil and run dry causing damage. This would be pretty obvious so I think it's more likely that your meter is faulty and if its reading about 1v too high, then your reading under load will not be 11.5v but around 10.5v.... If this is the case, that's too low.
An 18ah battery may work fine when all is running well but under stress it won't hold up. Get it tested properly under load at a battery shop. My guess is you need a new battery.

There was a slightly similar issue posted here a few months back were the OP jumped the battery from a car without result but when the new bat was installed she cranked over just fine.

escodsm · **103** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:54 pm

escodsm

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Your words hit like Thor's hammer. I was just thinking this wanker was acting up, when I tried to measure for resistance at the coils and for either null value or ridiculously random readings.

I have the Kawasaki starter relay recommended earlier coming in soon, will be a good backup should I melt this stock one.
I shall also buy a new battery, install it and report back.

If it doesn't work, I will bench test the hall effect sensor.

I'm also waiting to see if my other electrical nightmare is over: the fancy indigo backlighting for the gauges in my car aren't working, and where I live it's now dark at 430pm... Rolling Eyes

escodsm · **104** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 11, 2015 2:11 pm

escodsm

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Minor update

Did not buy a battery, still wasn't convinced, but I may be now....

:suspect:

escodsm · **105** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:54 pm

escodsm

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Hey guys

Can anyone describe for me, what happens in the following situations with a running bike:

1. Attempting to start with bike in gear and clutch lever not squeezed?

2. Attempting to start with sidestand down, clutch in?

3. Attempting to start with clutch in, but faulty switch so the bike believes it is in gear and clutch is not squeezed?

4. Attempting to start with a bad HES?

5. Attempting to start with wires to the coolant temp sensor cut/sensor missing/sensor bad?

I think my problem is electrical and am trying to replicate these situations. A brand new battery has no effect.

Holister · **106** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:57 pm

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escodsm wrote:Hey guys

Can anyone describe for me, what happens in the following situations with a running bike:

1. Attempting to start with bike in gear and clutch lever not squeezed?
Providing your clutch switch, neutral light and GPS are functioning properly... there will be no power to the starter relay

2. Attempting to start with sidestand down, clutch in?
You should not be able to pull the clutch lever in with the side stand down. But if you could the starter would turn. ~~There was a sidestand switch on the earlier Ks but it was discontinued~~. Edit: correction. Thanks Inge

3. Attempting to start with clutch in, but faulty switch so the bike believes it is in gear and clutch is not squeezed? The clutch sw does not have anything to do with the status of the GB. The 'start interlock circuit' allows the engine to start only if the neutral light is on or, if its in gear, when the clutch lever is pulled in. If the clutch switch has an 'open' fault and the GB is in gear then there will be no power to the starter relay. If the clutch switch has a closed fault and the GB is in gear then it should power the starter relay

4. Attempting to start with a bad HES? It might attempt to start and run rough but more likely it wouldn't fire up

5. Attempting to start with wires to the coolant temp sensor cut/sensor missing/sensor bad? I doubt the sensor is missing but if it was it would have the same effect as removing/cutting the wires (open circuit) and the FICU would think it was extremely cold and inject far too much fuel at startup. If the sensor was faulty and was closed circuit then the engine would not start because the ICU think the engine has overheated. A bad sensor, corrosion preventing a good earth connection or a short or break in the wire or connector can be causes.

I think my problem is electrical and am trying to replicate these situations. A brand new battery has no effect.
If you follow the starter troubleshooting flowchart linked off the Portal tab you'll likely find the problem.

Last edited by Kaptain Holister on Wed Nov 25, 2015 11:23 am; edited 1 time in total

escodsm · **107** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 7:32 pm

escodsm

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Thank you Kap... Yes I have the flowchart printed out on a massive sheet of paper, I just can't seem to make sense of it.
On the one hand, the injectors are squirting fuel so I never make it to the Orange "check EFI" box.
On the other hand, after trying to start, with neutral light jumped (no dash cluster) and clutch lever squeezed, after about five attempts there is now nothing from the starter relay. In this state, if I jump the starter tabs it will turn (but not start).

I will eventually figure it out with help from all of you, of course.
I just wanted to gather some info on what occurs in certain situations, and you've provided this so I thank you.

Rick G · **108** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:20 pm

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Just to add to #5 I think that if the sensor is open circuit or the wires disconected, which is esentially the same the engine will not start.

Inge K. · **109** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:36 am

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Kaptain Holister wrote:

escodsm wrote:
2. Attempting to start with sidestand down, clutch in?
You should not be able to pull the clutch lever in with the side stand down. But if you could the starter would turn. There was a sidestand switch on the earlier Ks but it was discontinued.

The sidestand switch is only present on the Motronic equipped 4V models (all of them).

charlie99 · **110** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:45 am

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good point inge

helps to remember the difference I guess

escodsm · **111** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:26 pm

escodsm

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I am stuck on this box now.

"Is the ground coming from the clutch switch to starter button?"
Is this the small cable up on the clutch lever on the left side handlebar?

What is happening now, is the LOAD SHED RELAY clicks when I press the starter button, and the fuel pump comes on. Zero from the starter relay.
All my little hacks are in place (jumped kill switch because the assembly is missing the brass contacts, pins 5&6 jumped for neutral light)
I used to get some response from this setup but like I said, now there is ZILCH/NADA at the relay. Only the Load Shed bumps, and the fuel pump. And it does this with the clutch pulled, or not. In gear, or not. This is why I wanted to get 'symptoms' of different scenarios in my earlier post above.

1987 K75 CR - Page 3 Wiringdiagrama1a

robmack · **112** Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:23 pm

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Looks like you're following a old version of the flow chart with a mistake. Check the current flowchart at: http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/bike-wont-start1.htm

When you pull in the clutch, you should measure +12V (to ground) at Terminal 6 (Black/Green) at the plug going to the right hand controls.
When you press the start button (assuming you have measured and validated the aforementioned +12V), then you should be able to measure +12V (to ground) on Pin 86 (Black/Yellow) of the starter relay.
If you successfully validate that step, then when you press the start button again, you should be able to measure 0V (GROUND potential) on the corresponding Pin 85 (Brown/Red) of the starter relay, and that ground should be present for up to 1 second after you release the start button.

If you validate all of the above as functioning properly, then you might want to remove the start relay from the relay box and test it on the bench.

escodsm · **113** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 3:21 pm

escodsm

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Can anyone identify this female connector for me?
It comes from the T cover for the Hall Effect Sensor.
I can't find anything on my harness that mates to this.

Also, I just want to apologize for my thread's style....I kind of ramble on incoherently. I went back to the beginning and read everything, I'm a real pain in the ass sorry guys.

We just celebrated thanksgiving here in the US, and I am definitely thankful to have your guys' help. I also realize the irony in having just celebrated an event about pilgrims(refugees) in a country that has problems with accepting refugees in current times.

Anyway here's the unidentified plug now:

1987 K75 CR - Page 3 11271510

robmack · **114** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:12 pm

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I think it is the turn signal cancel if the wire colour is Brown/White. Can you confirm?

Inge K. · **115** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:30 pm

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Looks like the connector to the water temp sensor.

robmack · **116** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:32 pm

robmack

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That makes sense.

Holister · **117** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 5:02 pm

Holister

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The water temp connection is combined in the FI harness on the left. I think that could be the oil pressure wire or turn cancel. I'm on the road right now and don't have my wiring map with me to be sure.

Chocolate · **118** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 5:24 pm

Chocolate

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Just corrected my idea it could be related to ABS, since it is blue.
But this Model is from 87 no ABS :-)

Cheers

robmack · **119** Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 5:51 pm

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Kaptain Holister wrote:The water temp connection is combined in the FI harness on the left. I think that could be the oil pressure wire or turn cancel. I'm on the road right now and don't have my wiring map with me to be sure.

There are two water temp sensors on a K-bike. One sensor is in the stand pipe on the left front of the block and is used to feed the temperature relay and the ECU engine temperature information. That connector is integrated into the injector sub-harness, as you pointed out Kaptain.

The other water sensor is installed on the water/oil pump housing in the drain hole and is used to supply information for the optional water temperature gauge. The single wire is fed through the pump housing, follows the hall sensor lead under the "T" plate and exits the block along with the hall sensor cable on the left front of the block. This connector would attach to the harness for the additional instruments, if installed. Part 4 in the diagram below:

1987 K75 CR - Page 3 Diag_6dx

To verify that this connector is for the optional water temp gauge, do a continuity check between it and the temp sensor on the pump.

escodsm · **120** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:39 am

escodsm

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Yes, that's what it goes to...continuity checked.

Now, is this a problem that it's not connected to anything?

robmack · **121** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:41 am

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No problem if left disconnected.

charlie99 · **122** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 11:22 am

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nods head

all good

escodsm · **123** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 11:25 am

escodsm

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Thanks guys, now....what if I have the wire terminals swapped on those two sensors down there? I tried to drain the coolant as per the book, but was surprised that the drain plug had a sensor in it...

robmack · **124** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:41 pm

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If your question is "Does it matter if I swap the wires on the temperature sensor in the stand pipe?", then the answer is no, I should think. the dual NTC resistors are of the same value each, have the same response curve each, and have a common terminal (being the body of the sensor itself. Swapping wires should not result in any change to the operation of the ECU or temp relay. Why would you contemplate that anyway would be my question to you?

Inge K. · **125** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 3:10 pm

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I would rather guess that swapping the connectors at the sensors on the pump is what OP has in mind Question

.

If so, then all that you would achieve is a dim oil pressure light that doesn't go out when you start the engine (but it would get brighter as the engine temp rises).

robmack · **126** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 3:32 pm

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Damn, I've totally F-ed up.

That blue connector is probably the lead to the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH, not the optional water temp sensor. So sorry to mislead (and surprised that Inge didn't correct me).

There should be a mating connector on the harness attached to a Brown/Green lead on the right side under the tank. That wire leads to Pin 11 on the instrument cluster. It is a pressure switch - open circuit when the engine is running and oil pressure is normal; closed when the engine is off or oil pressure is low. If you leave the connector unconnected, there is no detriment to the engine. You will however have no indication if the oil pressure drops.

Inge K. · **127** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 4:04 pm

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Keep calm, Robert ......nothing been fucked up.

The wire with the blue connector is for the temp sensor to the additional instrument.
The connector for the oil pressure switch wiring have a white housing and a flat pin.

But the connectors at the temp sensor and the pressure switch down at the pump is identical, and can be mixed.

escodsm · **128** UPDATE Mon Dec 28, 2015 3:41 pm

escodsm

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With Robmack's help, I cheated the ground from the HES by splicing into the brown/red at the primary terminals on the starter relay and grounding to frame.

With this modification, I am now able to use the original push button ignition.

However, the bike will not start. Couple observations:

1) getting spark at all plugs. Triple checked the plug wires are correct (in the same order as the coils, front to back).
2) motor is turning. I can hear the air pressure in there. (starter motor is working).
3) unburned fuel building up in exhaust, due to no start condition. (injectors are working, lines to tank are in the right location).
4) does not seem to matter if transmission is in neutral or not. I can hit the start button in gear, and the rear wheel will turn(on center stand).

Still fighting the gremlins....it could be old, varnished gas - but #4 is particularly troubling.....anyone got some tips on next steps to take?

robmack · **129** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:08 pm

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#4 problem: Let's assume that the bike is in gear. That would mean, if the TGPI is working, the gear indicator would display the engaged gear number. To test this theory, observe the gear number displayed on the instrument cluster. Does it correspond with the selected gear? If the gear indicator always shows "0", then the TGPI switch is acting up and that might be the culprit.

If the TGPI is working as expected, that would mean that there would be no power supplied to the start switch through Pin 5 from the instrument cluster. Assuming this is the case, then the only other source of power is from the clutch switch on the clutch perch. That switch must be defective. To prove it, disconnect the clutch switch connector from the harness. If the bike fails to start, you have identified the culprit.

escodsm · **130** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:17 pm

escodsm

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robmack wrote:#4 problem: Let's assume that the bike is in gear. That would mean, if the TGPI is working, the gear indicator would display the engaged gear number. To test this theory, observe the gear number displayed on the instrument cluster. Does it correspond with the selected gear? If the gear indicator always shows "0", then the TGPI switch is acting up and that might be the culprit.

I have no dashboard, no instruments, nothing. My method to test neutral is using my other foot to try and turn the wheel, this bike is on its center stand permanently lol.

- My pin 5 and 6 I have a jumper wire between them both, as I believe you recommended, to cheat the bike into thinking there is a neutral indicator in "N". I ...don't expect you to remember telling me this, lol.

I will try what you said, detach the clutch switch from the perch and see if it does the same thing?

Basically my bike will almost start now - but something is amiss and it is behaving as though it's in gear? Because of a faulty switch at the perch, or, down on the swingarm?

THANK YOU ROB!!!! I owe you pics, video, and a ride next time you're in Rhode Island lol

robmack · **131** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:52 pm

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The clutch switch is not your problem.

If you're jumping 5 and 6, then you are providing a source of switched power to the start switch, available at all times that the ignition is on. So, you are not emulating a neutral condition in the transmission. You're best off building the relay circuit that emulates neutral; search the forums for the schematic.

As for engine not starting, are you sure the firing order is correct (i.e. the correct lead is attached to the correct coil)? Cylinder 1 is attached to the coil with the Black/Blue lead. Cylinder 2 is attached to the coil with Black/Red lead. Cylinder 3 is attached to the coil with the Black/Green lead. Cylinder 1 is closest to the front of the bike, Cylinder 3 nearest the rear of the bike.

escodsm · **132** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:43 pm

escodsm

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Yes, but remember mine is a k75 Like yours. I've got black/blue on coil 1, closest to the motor. Coil 2 has black/red and coil 3 black/green.

I'm getting spark, getting fuel, and air. She just won't kick over.
It's been at least 8 years since she ran last.

In the meantime there's a bitchin' 1969 BSA that now runs great!

charlie99 · **133** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Dec 29, 2015 6:10 am

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might be time to check the injection controller signals

I believe the water temp sensor should be wired the same as the k100

so take an multimeter and measure between pins 10 and 13 on the incoming connector for about 3k of resistance at cold

the diagrams "logical flow chart" for the trouble shooting efi systems should be available to you from the "portal page " in the highlighted section in the middle

of corse it could be lack of fuel pressure through the injectors ...so you are getting a leak rather than a spray from them ....quite common on systems that haven't been running for a long time

many posts on here for injector clean-ups as well

good luck

escodsm · **134** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:47 pm

escodsm

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Update: Got the original instrumentation cluster for this bike, installed.

Off topic: does anyone recognize the headlight configuration shown on this bike?

It doesn't look like any I have seen on K's.....and I like it because I need to shop for a headlight solution that will work with the massive stock speedo/gauges....I like how this one looks.

Gaz · **135** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:00 pm

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That headlight mounting arrangement is the same as was on my 1990 K75 when I first bought it. They were a factory naked bike and mine had the low seat option the same as yours as well as the 'S' forks which I understand were an option at the time. My bike had the 17" rear wheel and rear disk brake - I couldn't see if yours has that configuration from your photo.

I have since removed that headlight surround and made up my own headlight mounts in the process of slimming the bike down. You can see what I have done in my build thread here. It may be of some interest to you.

I used the original instrument set as it saved me a lot of work that would have been involved in changing to a digital set up.

Cheers

Tom G · **136** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Jan 12, 2016 4:45 pm

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G'day All, This is the headlight surround/shroud inherited from Gaz80. It looks great. The headlight has been temporarily borrowed from my R100 and will be returned once a replacement headlight has been found. Cheers Tom

88 · **137** Re: 1987 K75 CR Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:43 pm

88

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Handy little screen that Tom. Coming on nicely I'd say.

escodsm · **138** UPDATE - BIKE STARTS! Sun Mar 13, 2016 7:16 pm

escodsm

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Got the bike to start today. Put in a new fuel filter, NAPA 3032 $4.00

Issue is, the choke needs to be all the way over to the right, (of course - cold start) but the idle just goes higher and higher until I shut it down... I mean fast too, scary fast.

There is a broken rubber hose which I am aware of but haven't fixed, should be easy enough, it is the infamous "Z Hose" and it's completely rotted off. It's not even there.

Would this cause my idle to skyrocket way up, with no coming down? I understand it's unmetered air getting in there at the plenum...so that makes sense. The Z hose needs to be replaced, might as well do it (cheap enough) and report back my findings....thanks everyone for all of your input as usual!

Holister · **139** Re: 1987 K75 CR Sun Mar 13, 2016 8:50 pm

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Sounds like you've worked it out.

Try temporarily blocking the breather inlet to the plenum. That should put it back to normal.

The crank breather pipe is cheap and easy enough to replace. I'd also check the vacuum hose to the FPR, the vacuum plugs, throttle bodies rubbers and injector o-rings. They can all degrade over time and leak air.

escodsm · **140** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Mar 14, 2016 11:46 am

escodsm

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Thanks Kaptain!

I have the "lifetime supply" kit of 25 injector o-rings from McMaster-Carr on the way, here is the link to them for anyone who may need it:

Injector O-Rings - $5.66 US as of March 2016

Now I'm also going this same route for the plugs and other rubber shiz...now the Z Hose I can do the same thing right? Basically just a rubber tube with the same ID and able to withstand heat.

escodsm · **141** UPDATE Mon May 09, 2016 5:19 pm

escodsm

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Bike is now 90% complete, running, starting, the whole nine. I realize it's been a while since my last post and I have to put some pics and video up!

I'm having some difficulty with one of the final things left on the bike: the front brake line. Since I dropped the stock bars and mounted clip ons, I'm about 6" short with the braided steel line that was on here. I've searched Motobrick looking for anyone who had this issue and came across a nice blue K75 someone did, but he never put what I need, which is the bolt size for the fork banjo fitting and the banjo fitting at the controls.

Here are the bolts I need - - don't know about the size/thread pattern though. I have the stock forks and stock controls.

I'll also need brake line - I've found so many online but they are expensive (~$50), and way too long (24" to 48")

Does anyone have suggestions or previous experience with this? I am ready to call it a day, and make my own steel line but I've never done that before. I'm looking for a 12 to 16" length of pre-made brake line with flat banjos on each end.

Thanks!

robmack · **142** Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon May 09, 2016 6:15 pm

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Stock caliper and MC bolts are M10 x 1.00mm. The bolts you linked to are too coarse a thread to use. Don't buy them.

Go to a local hydraulics supply shop and have them made or go online and have Speigler or some other company make them up to your specifications. They will be costlier than a ready made kit. But, remember this is your life. Isn't it worth $50 - $100 to keep it safe?

escodsm · **143** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue May 10, 2016 11:21 am

escodsm

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(Here's the part where I go off on robmack like a lunatic for no reason)

See below for more

Last edited by escodsm on Tue May 10, 2016 10:55 pm; edited 1 time in total

Rick G · **144** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue May 10, 2016 8:42 pm

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escodsm wrote:Here is where I remove what was quoted

All Rob is doing is showing some concern for your safety so maybe just maybe you could actually show some respect and delete your diatribe and applogize.
What you say is not one bit helpful and to be bluntly honest I would not be at all supprised if Rob just does not answer any further requests you make.

Deleted this also

Last edited by RicK G on Tue May 10, 2016 11:37 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Deleted some unnecessary quotes)

K75cster · **145** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue May 10, 2016 9:12 pm

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escodsm wrote:Rob thanks for the proper bolt size, but I'm almost 40 yrs old, I don't need to be lectured like a child. I think paying $68 for a 14" piece of rubber surrounded by steel braid is a bit expensive. This is a DIY project with barely any money to toss at it, one could argue a lot of reasons for me not to get on this bike and ride it:

Should I also change both axlerods and/or wheel bearings since I have no idea what shape they're in?
Should I make sure a professional electrician removes all the work I've done and does it over to factory spec?
Should I not use a bent piece of aluminum to hold my license plate on?
Should I invest in full regalia from head to toe, versus riding in jeans helmet and a hooded sweatshirt?

:suspect:

most importantly - If I had money, why would I even f*k with a piece of sh*t, 29-year old motorcycle? I'd just buy a nice bike and be done with it.

I respect you, I really really do - probably one of the most helpful individuals on this forum. I just don't like being judged because it appears I am cutting corners with my life. I just wanted the bolt size.

You alittle overtired man?
By the by, you may find what you need, at a wreckers yard, be cheaper than employing a bloke to make it for you. Smile

escodsm · **146** Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue May 10, 2016 11:08 pm

escodsm

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I'm a real dickwad.

Sorry for the derogatory comments about these bikes we all love, and the
absurd way I treated robmack mostly.

Take solace knowing this provides infinite proof that I'm a dickwad.

"Hey, dude check out this search on The Wayback Machine, of your dad"

-"yeah my dad's a dickwad."

Hopefully that brought you some laughter

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101 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:10 am

Rick G

102 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:05 am

Holister

103 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:54 pm

escodsm

104 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 11, 2015 2:11 pm

escodsm

105 Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:54 pm

escodsm

106 Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:57 pm

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107 Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 7:32 pm

escodsm

108 Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:20 pm

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109 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:36 am

Inge K.

110 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:45 am

charlie99

111 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 4:26 pm

escodsm

112 Re: 1987 K75 CR Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:23 pm

robmack

113 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 3:21 pm

escodsm

114 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:12 pm

robmack

115 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:30 pm

Inge K.

116 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 4:32 pm

robmack

117 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 5:02 pm

Holister

118 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 5:24 pm

Chocolate

119 Re: 1987 K75 CR Fri Nov 27, 2015 5:51 pm

robmack

120 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:39 am

escodsm

121 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:41 am

robmack

122 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 11:22 am

charlie99

123 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 11:25 am

escodsm

124 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:41 pm

robmack

125 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 3:10 pm

Inge K.

126 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 3:32 pm

robmack

127 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sat Nov 28, 2015 4:04 pm

Inge K.

128 UPDATE Mon Dec 28, 2015 3:41 pm

escodsm

129 Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:08 pm

robmack

130 Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:17 pm

escodsm

131 Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 5:52 pm

robmack

132 Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:43 pm

escodsm

133 Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Dec 29, 2015 6:10 am

charlie99

134 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:47 pm

escodsm

135 Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:00 pm

Gaz

136 Re: 1987 K75 CR Tue Jan 12, 2016 4:45 pm

Tom G

137 Re: 1987 K75 CR Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:43 pm

88

138 UPDATE - BIKE STARTS! Sun Mar 13, 2016 7:16 pm

escodsm

139 Re: 1987 K75 CR Sun Mar 13, 2016 8:50 pm

Holister

140 Re: 1987 K75 CR Mon Mar 14, 2016 11:46 am

escodsm