92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Number of posts : 7955
MXI wrote:Rick, you clearly have loads more knowledge than me. Sorry
What gauge?
How to crimp
What return line
Really sorry.
No need to be apologetic, we all start somewhere.
Far more respect for the man who askes the proper question as you did instead of proceeding blindly into oblivion.
You do have one or two other options but some will say its spending money rather than solving the problem but it avoids the purchase of a gauge if you haven't got one and keeps it simple. You probably are unlikely to need a gauge much after this job is done.
Charlie 99 and Rick G seem to suggest the fuel tank. So would I. The pipes inside the tank if original should probably be replaced anyway. Similarly if you don't know the history of the fuel filter that should be done too. But you need to be sure the inside of the tank is clean so no dirt comes up to block it. When they are done then you will also see the pump is working [or not working] and that should eliminate possibility of the cause being inside the tank. Those two items are very high on the suspect list and are relatively small money but just take a little time. The fuel pump itself is also a possibility and if there is a problem with it that will show up now. Once these are done you should not need to be back at the tank for quite a long time. If you are already fully happy with the tank then you could go straight for the FPR below, but it seems the tank is the more likely source of the problem.
If when they are done and you still have a problem then you have one other item, the fuel pressure regulator [FPR]. You should come back here before doing it. As far as I can see its located between the airfilter box and intake manifolds so its the fiddly one to get at requiring removal of the fuel tank and top of the airfilter box. You need to be careful here as there is a delicate part inside the top of the box, you will see wires on top of the box. If you are replacing the FPR you should replace the fuel lines, the manufacture date is stamped on BMW ones and you should use BMW fuel line. They perish in time and the fiddling around is likely to end their lives. Fuel line is cheap, I have plenty spare here as do most of us. An FPR is also easy to pick up.
If you can you should get a Clymer manual as it is very good.
Just a little word, my 84RT has the power connection to the fuel pump at the front left of the tank, its a 4 pin that goes in underneath. It was dodgy and gave me similar symptoms. Try wriggling it to see if any effect, if it does you can crimp up the connections slightly to resolve it and it will click back into place.
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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles.
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles
Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500