Got the handle bars back in place today so adjusted the clutch cable. While I was there I noticed the center stand had a lot of slop in one side, the side stand side. It looks like the bush is missing, completely gone. I think it would be 5 in this diagram. It says it's a 24mm bush. Any idea what else I can jam in there to remove the slop?

I had to replace my stand.......as it seems that as the bushes wear out, the eyelets they fit in in the stand also grow oblong. I was afraid if I only replaced the bushes that the stand would soon fail under the weight of the machine.

just note the circlip that fits on the end as well ....many times I have seen that the stand has actually bent out wards past the circlip position and obviously the clip has long gone .
perhaps a bit of brass would fit in there

im sure the bm shop would have one ..for you

Definitely something to attend to sooner rather than later.
I'd break a bolt (no. 6 in the diagram) on my centre stand about every 30 to 35,000km (probably an indication of my short stature - rocking the bike at an angle to get it off the stand).
It's a massive pain in the arse when the bolt breaks at a rest stop in the middle of a ride and you can't leave the thing sitting sideways rubbing on the tyre. It's a 15 minute job crawling around in the dirt under the bike trying to undo the other bolt while trying to avoid the hot exhaust pipe.

And then off course, you have a nasty, dirty lump of metal to ockky strap onto your bike somewhere to get it home.

ahhh... memories

I pulled it off for a closer look. It's been repaired/welded, only the spring side has a circlip, the side stand side is just a bolt into a bush. I got that bolt out. The circlip side is rusted in by the looks, I'll let it soak in WD40 overnight and hit it with heat tomorrow if it's still stuck. It's just as sloppy as the other side, was just being tensioned by the springs I think.

I've never found one with two circlips yet, apart from those where I've added a second. The circlip function is to stop the pivot from being drawn into the stand too far, thereby losing the end float. It won't stop it falling out if the screw is lost.

The pivots are meant to wear rather than the stand itself wearing.

The countersunk screws are held with blue loctite so some heat will make things easier when stripping it.

The pivots are relatively cheap.

Cheers Mike, they're not cheap here. Munich wants $10 each for the bush + $3.30 for the screws + $10 Postage = about 23 pound !!!

It's not urgent though and with the jack I can get it off anytime so it's it's looking like another parcel from Britain

The countersunk screws are held with blue loctite so some heat will make things easier when stripping it.

Blue is the weaker one isn't it ? So hit the screw itself with heat to melt it?

Robin, It is.

If you can direct the heat at the open end of the screw thread in the sub-frame, it will make it a lot easier:



The loctite always seems to be down at that end:

Cheers, I had a go earlier with a gas blowtorch and it didn't move
Tomorrow is another day

Just to comment on the prices here
I needed a cam chain kit for the k1100 and priced one from Motobins and it cost $128 landed in my mail box.
I then just for interest checked Munich Motorcycles in Perth who had a price of $440 but Bruce said especially for me $400 (the magnamous prick). I then for a laugh rang Morgan and Wacker the Brisbane big BMW dealer who wanted a paltry $620.
These Idiots and I repeat Idiots still cant figure why we shop overseas.
We so often hear Australian businesses complaining that they are going broke because of people buying overseas but it just doesn't seem to impinge on their tiny minds that they are the problem.
I recently purchased 2 sets of tyres for the K1100 from Rockymountain Motorcycle and ATV and landed then at my local post Office for $600. The best price I could get from my local guy was $400 for 1 pair fitted (Michilin PR2).
After I got the tyres I went to the local bike shop to get them fitted and he cracked up about me buying somewhere else and said $40 each to fit them so I told him where to go and what to do when he got there and went to a local auto store that fits tyres and they did them for $13 the pair and ballanced on the dynamic ballancer. I tried to give him some business but he apparently objected to that so now he gets none and I have picked up some of his K customers.
The ironic thing is that he buys most of his BMW spares from Motobins and charges "real" BMW prices.
I will add one more to the list here.
I use a CPAP machine to help with sleep aopnea and the Machine I use is made in Sydney Australia and costs $1800 from the Resmed dealer here in Brisbane. I can buy the very same made in Sydney Australia machine from a place on Ohio for $600 plus about $70 postage. GE are now making a CPAP machine and selling it in US for under $200.

Australiab Businesses have the idea that they have some God given right to rip off the public to any extent they want to but now that the internet is here the shoe is firmly on the other foot and oh boy arent they naking a noise about it and some have gone so far as to want the government to stop the people from doing this horrible thing of having a fair go.

Rant over
I have nearly got my k1100 back together after what Saxon seems to think was a monumental explosion

I can't budge that bolt. Every time I shoot WD40 in the grease needle hole, red stuff comes out. Heat didn't help at all. I'm guessing it's rusted in. I've also completed the butchering job on the hex head that someone else started, so I'll have to drill it out. Just ordered every bit going for both the center and side stand, it's wobbly too, for about $45 delivered.

Did you heat the bolt until bright red or nearly white with the torch? I had the same problem as you are having and took my stand to a local muffler repair shop.  They heated the bolt nearly white hot with an oxy-acetylene torch before using an hex driver to get the bolt moving. The stand came out unscathed from this treatment but the bolt I had to replace naturally.

Another tip, once you get it really hot, dab it with an old candle and the wax will melt and flow down the threads.

MikeP wrote:Another tip, once you get it really hot, dab it with an old candle and the wax will melt and flow down the threads.

My bike deserves more than just an old candle, I shall use a nice new one.

I don't have an oxy torch, I guess i have a plumbers soldering torch, so it won't get it glowing hot, but it got the swingarm bearings out

I put it back on the bike until the parts arrive next month, then I'll drill it and get an easy out into it and have another go.

I doubt wax will get into the thread, even from a new candle I'm pretty sure it's solid rust in there.

It's a pity I can't get the actual stand bit off to see what's going on in there.

When the parts show up, it might be wise to soak it in some sort of penetrating fluid for a bit before attacking it.

Acetone and automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 is the best penetrating fluid you will get and its cheap to make.

Really ... I got a bottle of acetone and need more trany oil. Just the ticket. Cheers Rick.

Give it a dose of the "mix" every day between now & then. I assume he means Acetone and ATF???

When I did mine I used a small stilson wrench around the head of the screw, I know the head is narrow but it worked for me.:arrow:

I did try a big set of vice grips, trust me, it's stuck

The big problem is that 1mm of steel makes 25mm of rust and that has a habit of making things permanent.
Try peening it with a ball peen hammer all round the external part of the thread you will need to do it for quite a qhile but not too hard. This can expand the metal slightly and give you enough room to move.
You will need an anvil of some type maybe a large hammer held in the vise and a small hammer 12oz to peen it. You might need to spend 1/2 hour doing it just tap tap and go all round it many times.

Anvil,  heheheh, yep got one of those ...
Bit smaller than the ones in the cartoons though ... hehehhe

Just taken mine apart to see why there is a lean to the right. Glad that I have the impact gun. One side the bush is well worn and the other a bit worn. I think that the stand is worn too so I will wait for the new bushes and measure them then decide to ream and bush if needed.

One might use a large dose of caution before reaming out the eylets at the top of a center stand. They're pretty darn thin from the get go & you can't afford having one "part" just as you're rolling a fully loaded machine up onto the stand........If your's is worn it might be better to look around for a gently used one or weld up the missing material before reaming back to size to fit the standard new bush.
Regards, Ibj...

bikerboy wrote:Just taken mine apart to see why there is a lean to the right. Glad that I have the impact gun. One side the bush is well worn and the other a bit worn. I think that the stand is worn too so I will wait for the new bushes and measure them then decide to ream and bush if needed.

i see that too on the one I can get out. There is a good 5mm worn away on one side.

From my measurements the outside of the bearing on the stand is 30mm. I think the bush should be 20 to 21mm so the sidewall is 4.5 to 5mm thick. If I get a bush that is 1mm wall thickness and a H8 fit then I am sure there will be no loss of strength. I just need to get to a dealer on Tuesday and hope that they have the bits in.
For now I will fit the stand bracket back on the bike with just the side stand on it.

The fiche under parts at max bmw calls it a 24mm bush.

RobinW wrote:The fiche under parts at max bmw calls it a 24mm bush.

#

The printout (also from MaxBMW) that I have in front of me reads "SLEEVE from 11/89" and it is about 20mm. Are you looking at an earlier one?

Mines a little older than yours

05 46 52 1 454 038 SLEEVE - 24MM (from 05/84)

Bikerboy are you looking at a 16v side/centre stand, you said from 11/89 and that is about when the first 16v bikes appeared.

ungaas wrote:When I did mine I used a small stilson wrench around the head of the screw, I know the head is narrow but it worked for me.:arrow:

with the help of Mr Klompy's vise grips , mine eventually eased out, thankfully.
Not an easy task when the factory uses all of the hold tite chemicals.
but I suppose it's better than trying to dismantle your undercarriage from the rear wheel, oops!

RicK G wrote:Bikerboy are you looking at a 16v side/centre stand, you said from 11/89 and that is about when the first 16v bikes appeared.

Yes Rick, mine is a 16v. It seems that they made a change but it still wears and goes wobbly!

I bought a second hand one (for a K1100) that's got grease nipples (snort, giggle) fitted.

Is that a factory thing? It wouldn't hurt to fit a couple to a least keep the bushings greased?

Mine has grease nipples on both the centre and the side stand. I would suspect that the PO did not have a grease gun or did not know that they were there.

I've just drilled and tapped a K100 '87 centre-stand for grease nipples as per the later ones.

Looks like early sidestands could be converted with some of the bits from a later model (the longer bolt and special collar) but if you're going to go to that trouble it may just be easier to fit the whole later system.

Cheers

Best thing about the K1100 stand is the ease which the bike goes up. I can get mine on the centre stand while still astride the bike.