This is just for sidecar outfits using the standard rear brake.

Because of the extra weight of a sidecar, it is neccessary to put extra pressure on the brake pedal to get effective stopping power. This causes excessive movement of the pedal.

The piston in the master cylinder is operated via a rubber block which is compressed by the brake pedal. This gives the brake 'feel'.

My first idea to reduce the pedal movement was to replace the rubber block with solid stainless steel, that can be seen at the top of my photo.
Big mistake...it made the brake into an on/off switch with no 'feel' at all.

Not being one to give up, I then decided to restrict the amount of squidge at the rubber by fitting a 3mm spacer over the rubber. This has been very successful, retaining good 'feel' but giving solid pressure at the master cylinder when required, without my right foot moving to an inefficient angle.

The spacer needs a generous countersink to conform to the fillet where the rubber is fixed to the metal thrust plate.





Note, this is not a substitute for a poorly bled hydraulic line and is not neccessary for a solo.

Paul.

You're a clever bloke, methinks! A good mod.

Could you make up a few hundred of those washers for the members???? lol

On the EML, the master cylinder has been replaced by a K1100 one (for the 4 pistons caliper).
This normally allows the sidecar's brake to work concurrently with the motorcycle rear brake. (The sidecar brake was never installed on my chair but I have the full kit.)

I want to install an original K100 master cylinder with a second brake pedal in order to be able to control the sidecar independently of the motorcycle rear brake.
The idea is to control one or the other or both at the same time.
For information to people not familiar with a chair:
When you slow down the bike, the chair has the tendency to turn around the bike.
If you open the throttle, the bike have the tendency to turn around the sidecar.
To avoid opening the throttle, you could slow down the chair and it will have the same effect.
In case of emergency braking, applying the right power to each caliper will insure that the rig will keep a straight path.

With the K1100 MC, the braking power is VERY good on the motorcycle rear wheel. This is an easy upgrade and cheap if you find a used one.

Read this for info about the master cylinder

CF

Are you sure about the K1100 MC. AFAIK the K1100 is the same as the K100 but the R1100 has a 4 piston rear caliper but I dont know if the MC is different.
I have been considering using a R1100 rear caliper on my K1100 because I tow the camper trailer and need all the brakes I can get, does anyone know for sure if they fit the rear drive.

RicK G wrote:Are you sure about the K1100 MC. AFAIK the K1100 is the same as the K100 but the R1100 has a 4 piston rear caliper but I dont know if the MC is different.
I have been considering using a R1100 rear caliper on my K1100 because I tow the camper trailer and need all the brakes I can get, does anyone know for sure if they fit the rear drive.

May not be the K1100
EML had replaced the Magura 12mm bore MC with a 16mm bore.
Why was I thinking of the k1100?

CF