Ive acquired a set of K75 'S' type forks to fit to my K100. Before I resort to drilling out, can anyone tell me if the mudguard mounting bolts are threaded through the fork slider lugs or simply push through?? Ive got the forks separated but can't remove these bolts. There is a fair bit of corrosion sealing them in and despite copious quantities of heat and anti-sieze fluid all Ive suceeded in doing is rounding the internal allen head hex on one of the bolts.

I removed one of the mudguard bolts on the forks currently fitted to my K100 quite easily and they are push fit through the mounting lug. However these are non standard hex head and have clearly been replaced at some point so I don't know if the originals suffered the same fate and were drilled out. In any event I tried replacing the nut to the exposed thread and tentatively thumping, to no avail. If I though they were a push through fit I might try a firmer thump.

Cheers

Fent

I presume you mean the 50 x 6mm bolts just below the seals and not the bolts that hold the fork brace.
There is no thread just a hole so you drill the head off then use a punch and hammer. Dont try to drill all the way as it is very easy to run off and into the alloy of the fork.

Thanks Rick G, you were right I did mean the 50 x 6mm bolts ( Note to self: be more specific in posts) Thats my first job this morning sorted.

Cheers

Fent

Despite my previous optimisim I have not been able to budge these bolts, in trying to punch them out I was using enough force to start worryng about breaking the casting. I even tried to press the bolts out using a vice and spacer, all it did was start to bend the bolt. This all against a background of heat and copious amounts of dismantling fluid.

Im back to drilling out. I have a decent drill press so not overly worried about skewed drilling and what remains of the allen heads will provide a good starter guide.

Cheers

Fent

Try putting some nitric acid on the bolt and get it to soak down the hole into the crud. Nitric wont attack aluminium but will get into the steel and rust. You will need to let it soak in for a couple of days.

Hi Rick
Thanks for that, not sure where I might get nitric acid from though.

On another note, is there an easy way of getting the top plug (not the allen filler plug) out of the stanchions? my Haynes manual shows a picture of the plug resting slightly down the stanchion and a guy easily unpicking the circlip to release the plug.

Im guessing however that picture was done with the internal springs removed and that Im fighting against spring pressure, in which case my two thumbs aren't going to be enough. Is there a trick/tool to getting the plug depressed sufficiently to reach the circlip?

Cheers

George

always found penetrene works well...especially if heat applied after a good soak....but some will never move or ezy out so destruction of the core is the answer....be careful of the castings is all. good luck

Fentible wrote:Hi Rick
Thanks for that, not sure where I might get nitric acid from though.

On another note, is there an easy way of getting the top plug (not the allen filler plug) out of the stanchions? my Haynes manual shows a picture of the plug resting slightly down the stanchion and a guy easily unpicking the circlip to release the plug.

Im guessing however that picture was done with the internal springs removed and that Im fighting against spring pressure, in which case my two thumbs aren't going to be enough. Is there a trick/tool to getting the plug depressed sufficiently to reach the circlip?

Cheers

George

If you pull the fork apart by undoing the 6mm socket head screw from
directly underneath. You need to take the axle out to see it. Once it is
out and the fork apart the cap just pushes down the tube.
The best penetrating oil is to mix acetone ans ATF in equal quantities.

Thats what the manual suggested , I already have the slider and stanchion separated but I can't push the end caps down yet I can rotate them quite easily with a spanner. Do I need to remove the circlip at the other end of the stanchion to release the damper rod first??

Just perused the BMW manual and under the stripping the stanchions down section it notes that I should "Press in the spring bearing using a suitable size screwdriver" It shows this being done single handedly. Ive had my full 13 stones on these and they won't move!!

If it makes any difference they are brembo forks
Cheers

Fent

Try giving them a wack with a block of wood the big O ring that makes the seal may have become stuck to the inside of the leg and lets the plug turn but prevents it moving down. The steady pressure of you pushing may not be breaking the grip the O ring has.

Thanks Rick, that got them!

yay !!!

George, I had the same problem with the sheared off bolts. I had to get them drilled out with a good quality drill.

Good luck.

Ali

Yay indeed Charlie, although there was a brief glorious moment when, having unsuccessfully applied full body weight, I thought I had once again unwittingly attained my 70's sylph like proportions. Unfortunately Ricks simple 'clout with wood' theory put paid to that !!

Thanks Ali, I managed quite nicely with aforementioned drill press and a 6mm HSS drill.

Cheers all

George