When I was taking some bits off an old wiring loom recently, I noticed that the mostly unused connector for the original anti theft equipment is the same 4 pin female as the pump connector. As this lives in the relay box it doesn't get exposed to much corrosion so is probably pristine.

So, if your pump connector is well past it's 'sell by date' and assuming you don't have the anti theft device fitted, it wouldn't be difficult to cut the cables for the anti theft connector, insulating the ends of course, and crimp or solder it in place of the pump connector.

Just a thought, may help someone.

Paul.

That may just help me, I can see someone has done some repairs to my latest K's fuel connector, and now the pump has lost power. The 2 meters of gaffer tape around the connector could have something to do with it.
Tks Paul.

I would like to add that this is valid on models up to 05/85 which have the connector at the left front of the tank.

On later models which have the pigtail connector at the rear of the tank, a connector from the GPI switch, ignition switch or engine/chassi harness connector can be used.

Hello
I refitted my tank yesterday and now fuel pump is not running I suspect a bad connection in the connector I have been reading it can be squeezed but I would like to replace it without robbing it from another part of the wirring, although that is great info for a break down. I would like to replace it. Are there replacements available? Is there an after market connector you know of?

Can you post a photo of the buggered part? Is it the harness or the tank end?

I replaced one for a friend and just used a 4 pin connector from an auto shop. Narva make them in a blister pack.

I do not know if it is any help to anyone with any type of brick, but a few years ago I had a totally malfunctioning joint between the fuel pump and harness to the extent that the bike stopped 6 times in 15 miles. Boy was I pleased!! Try working under there with a full tank!! When I got home I sorted it by removing the old joint completely - extending the cables by 3 inches on both sides (BMW being skimpy) and fitting a 4way 'Superseal' connector - other bikes may require a different connector - E Bay very useful - firm grip and waterproof. Lasted for the next 40k miles until Written Off.. Apparently this joint is a perennial problem. Hope this may help. But if not, as well, Deoxit the connector to the Water Temp sensor on the block.

PS. I found this out from a VW mechanic who stated that the brick system - fuel and ignition - was a direct lift from the Mark1 VW Golf. Strange old world!

Imagine taking a 'K' into a VW Garage to try to get them to fix your problem. Could be cheaper and quicker than BMW Motorrad!!

Well to be correct it's a direct purchase from Bosch who sold them both a jetronic system among many other manufacturers like Kawasaki, Ford etc