No worries mate, we all have those moments of doubt sometimes..... As long as you get her right again!

Still having doubts here, even though I am picturing in my mind how it all fits in, as you say the "Clutch" is only engaged when the starter motor spins up and the bolt can only go into the first of the gears.... Still wondering if I just didn't manage to pull it together....

Will find out tomorrow when I have got my torque wrench in my hand and I can tighten the bugger up! I am all setup ready to go tomorrow so just got to sit back and wait....

Have you removed the driving dog and checked the splines at the shaft....and driving dog?

I would guess that the splines is gone, and when you now thightened the screw a bit more...it's only the pressure from the screw that keep them together.
And when you get some more resistance when the alternator starts to charge it would break loose again.

Hi Inge,

I had a go at taking the driving dog out but i couldn't get the leverage with the gearbox still in place to take it out.

I have added info to my previous post.

The driving dog should be pulled straight backwards, a small bearing puller would do I'll guess.

That makes more sense to me now, i was struggling to remember how they locked into each other. My only thought on possibly having stripped the splines is there should have been a massive loss of power from the drive when the fault occurred.

I shall go back and try a small bearing puller on it tomorrow as being able to look at the splines would be helpful

thats good idea paul and inge

twincarb wrote:My only thought on possibly having stripped the splines is there should have been a massive loss of power from the drive when the fault occurred.

Don't quite understand what you mean......?


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I think it would be a good idea to check the splines, and keep the fingers crossed...
and hope that those in the dog is most worn/destroyed.
Instead of putting it back together and risk more damage.

twincarb wrote:Still having doubts here, even though I am picturing in my mind how it all fits in, as you say the "Clutch" is only engaged when the starter motor spins up and the bolt can only go into the first of the gears....

Hi there, what I see on the Haynes is that the bolt is screwed into gear number 3 of drawing 00001171. That gear they call auxiliary drive shaft and passes through the sprag clutch. Hope this helps.
Best regards
JAP

Inge, I am just trying to work out in my head the symptoms that would have been felt/heard/occurred if the splines had disintegrated I am thinking that cause the alternator is free running that for the splines to have disintegrated something would have had to have seized.

The gears I presume are all good cause the starter operates and that moves all of the gearing in the engine for starting. The only way I can see the splines can get damaged is if the gears behind the alternator are able to move around 10mm back... Or less if at an angle I suppose. Of course if the gears are given a small amount of movement there is nothing stopping them from eating the engine casing and gaining more space! I shudder at the thought of the damage that could be lurking!!!!

I definitely agree I need to get to the splines and check them...

By judging the bolt holding the dog, it looks like it have became loose.
Then the dog have been able to move a thiny bit forth/back on the shaft,
and starting to chew splines.

Yeah that does make sense.... Am thinking of going back to plan A and stripping the bell housing off and see what damage may have been incurred irrespective of damage to the dog

You don't need to remove the bell housing to check the splines on the shaft.

I would first removed the dog and checked.....but if the splines on the shaft is worn/damaged...it would unfortunately be the next step.

That your starter functions as per normal confirms that it's nothing wrong with the gear at the other end of the shaft.

About the M8x22 bolt which go into the aux shaft (and been a bit beaten up).

On later models with 50A alternator, a M8x40 bolt is used...check the depth of the threads on yours.

Inge K. wrote:About the M8x22 bolt which go into the aux shaft (and been a bit beaten up).

On later models with 50A alternator, a M8x40 bolt is used...check the depth of the threads on yours.

Agree with you Inge, the old bolt looks suspiciously short and was probably only holding on by those few threads, a longer bolt is needed.

Most of the 22mm bolt goes into the shaft, but since the bolt threads seems like they got a lot of punishment...I would expect that the threads inside the shaft also have got their share.

Then a longer bolt would have more good threads to grip, if the threads inside the shaft is deep enough.

Thanks for the bolt heads up. I am going to replace all 3 bolts that hold the alternator on so at the same time will pick up a selection of m8 bolts from 22 to 40mm so I have a better choice and will use the one which is the best fit

If needed: drive dog.

Inge K. wrote:If needed: drive dog.

Check out all the other great stuff this guy has....which is for UK sale only....everything you could need .

Not had a chance to look at the bike for a couple of days with work and sorting out the brakes on my VW....

I have finally got the drive dog off after a battle of wills ok I took a firm grip with a set of mole grips and was able to get it off... Good news is that the splines look good on both sides so am now able to put it all back together without and worries.

Going to put the new regulator onto the Alternator and use the new Monkey Nutz then start her up. Just got to pop out and get a selection of M8 bolts and see what length fits best.

Thanks for the advice given one and all

Final report....

Everything has gone back on, the monkey nutz were almost a squeeze to get into place on the alternator and no problems with them falling out like the old one's did!

Started her up and I am sure she is quieter than before the problems which I think is a good sign! I now have that tell tale whine at idle which is characteristic of the old K's.

Will try and get out for a quick blast tomorrow, however my main job tomorrow is stripping the head from my VW engine and see if it's the Tappets that are out of spec or if it is one of the Diesel injectors that is causing the "ticking"

Bit of an anticlimax.....which is good for all...great result

Good job TC.
If by some chance you still find a vibration at higher revs do not despair.
As Mr Klompy will attest. Getting your nuts to sit just right can be a royal pain. If they are slightly crooked the bike will make a horrible noise.
Think Rick G mentioned super glue to hold them.
Fingers crossed you got it right first time

rossco

good result twincarb ....carefull as you go mate ....with all that extra power ....grin

rossco wrote:
As Mr Klompy will attest. Getting your nuts to sit just right can be a royal pain. If they are slightly crooked the bike will make a horrible noise.
Think Rick G mentioned super glue to hold them.


rossco

Ok then to clear something up I do fidget a bit when I ride to get just that comfy position and rarely find myself perched precariously upon my own testicles ( pronounced test a cleese like the greek philospher ) so we must be discussing those strange rubber devices that take up the shock of the alternator turning....and yep must agree glueing nuts is good...not as scary as it first sounded.

congrats TC....sounded like a novel was growing and then it was just a pamphlet..oh well