I am slowly doing elimination tests to try and find a Power Loss from 6000 rpm upwards and on the hills, and trying not to bankrupt the pension fund. up to now have done the following: Valve Settings all OK. Compression all four 150. New fuel filter and Air filter is clean. New Plugs NGK D8EA . (I have used the cooler 8EA for many years due to the higher temp. in South Africa.)
Here is what I need advice on. The spark plug Cables are still the Original ! They look New and do not throw any spark in the dark and there is not any clicking sounds from a jumping spark and the motor idles very smoothly. I removed the cables and tested them with a Multimeter set at Ohm 20K. Lead (N0:1): 8,6 (No:2) 4,7 (No:3) 5,7 and (No:4) 5,7 Are these readings correct ??? A set of originals from BMW S.A cost $250.00 !! If the cables are OK I am going to have to move on to servicing the injectors and removing the intake rubber sleeves to look for cracks as they and the injectors have never been taken out and serviced.
The Forums advice will be greatly appreciated as I am a real old woman when my K is not performing at its best.
Lazyboy

I believe the resistance should be about 5000 Ohms. From your readings, I'm guessing that you have your meter set on a different scale, hence 5.7 instead of 5700?
I'm guessing that the one reading 20,000 is bad.
Your symptom sounds more like a lack of max fuel pressure when needed most....... as opposed to one of the four cylinders cutting out.
Have you had a tee to a pressure gauge installed in the fuel hose so that you can determine the availability of fuel fuel pressure when you momentarily pinch off the return line??

the 8.6 k reading is high for cable 1 .... should be about 6 k

this reading would be affecting 1 and 4 as its a wasted spark system so both plugs fire at the same time

Hi Ronnie When you say its not going well over 6000rpm do you mean every gear or just the higher gears like 4th and 5th.
Is it at full throttle or just edging the revs up.
The plug lead at 8.6 is too high and needs to be replaced. I would go for a new set but not OEM. Either EME http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-K-Parts-s/60.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=60&show=20&page=4
or the Realm engineering ones that 73MOH suggested.

Hi RickG , and all others for your advice. In reply to to RickG , under hard acceleration in gears 1 to 3 she is not too sluggish but in 4th she takes a while to get to max revs and once in 5th gear falls back and and does go over 165kph where as she was always able to get to 205 kph on the clock if needed. Feels as if you are riding with a handbrake on. Fuel usage only 13,6 km per Ltr at a steady 115kph. (Speed Limit in S.A 120Kph on open roads and 60 in town ) I hope my explanation makes sense ! Are the original carbon wires ?
Lazyboy

Lazyboy wrote:Hi RickG , and all others for your advice. In reply to to RickG , under hard acceleration in gears 1 to 3 she is not too sluggish but in 4th she takes a while to get to max revs and once in 5th gear falls back and and does go over 165kph where as she was always able to get to 205 kph on the clock if needed. Feels as if you are riding with a handbrake on. Fuel usage only 13,6 km per Ltr at a steady 115kph. (Speed Limit in S.A 120Kph on open roads and 60 in town ) I hope my explanation makes sense ! Are the original carbon wires ?
Lazyboy

Next question when you are had on the throttle in 5th at say 140 if you back off a bit does it pick up and actually go a bit harder because I suspect it may be running a bit lean.

The OEM carbon leads are good leads but the price sort of makes your eyes water.

I think we need a fuel pressure test to rule out low fuel pressure. Definitely sounds like fuel rather than air leaks at that speed

Thats what I have been thinking more FPR than anything else.

I couldn't guess without the actual fuel pressure test. Both running and stopped off to max. could be the reg, or the pump relief valve as we discussed at length, a leak in the pressure side inside the tank.......I think we need to push for a proper test. all it takes is a Tee fitting, a clamp or 2, a 100 psi gauge and a vise grip to pinch off the return momentarily.
I suppose it could also be intermittent or resistance in the fuel pump power, time will tell if we can talk the owner into doing the tests before he throws parts at it.

just get a cheepie ignition cable ....available almost any where before you do anything could cost maybe 10 bucks worst case
it would eliminate a lot of issues ....make sure its about 3 - 5 k in resistance

then you can do the rest