EDIT: Links are mainly nonfunctional due to my homepage providers decision to end providing.. All pictures can be found here: 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wso2wf0jajx9dju/Us9IpM3PD1

Bike is actually BMW K100RT from 1986, but it went through complete modification process at 2009. Engine was also then completely redone, otherwise stock but some work done to the channels of cylinder head (not sure if that is the right term).

(Mainly copied this from that other discussion:)

All I've done so far are front light and licence plate holder (and light) and that airflow thingy near air intake + some electrical stuff (brakelights didnt work etc.) Here are some pics:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/download.html

My ex bikes pics can be found there also.

Other (project) pics:
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/AF1.jpg
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/AF3.jpg
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/AF5.jpg

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/P1.jpg (just in case I have to do longer trip..)
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/EV2.jpg

Frame, fueltank etc. are coated with teflon. New Michelin tyres are ordered and lots of work still to be done when I get parts (main seal and a dry clutch plate that works in oil too - just in case...), but It will be ready for summer 2013.

It aint that pretty, but it's lot's of fun and it is one of a kind.

EDIT: Bike is back in one piece! Even started without problems.

Edit: Cafe Racer project finished (Pics 9-14).

Still some things to do. Those LED indicators dont work properly so I'm changing them to normal 21W indicators. Not sure yet which kind. Bought another mirror and a horn + it's button etc. today, and coming by mail is a light for that Sigma speedometer. Also changing the back of the bike little. Here in Finland taillight has to be maximum of 30cm from the rearest point of the bike - so I have to move it about 10cm backwards. Also trying to make the instrument panel working fully - it now has only high beam and oil or charge lights. Turn signal indicator light should be easy, but not sure about the neutral light.

Tail brake is bad, must try to get the air out of the system. Hope I get it to work.

After these modifications bike should be fully legal for road use in Finland

Edit: measured that backlight and it is actually only 3cm too front. I think I dont do anything about it until some one (police) orders me to. I like the tail section.

New indicators bought. Cheapest 21W I could get since I could not find anything I really like - and I may be doing some modifications to the bike winter 13-14. Cafe racer back and handlebars maybe?

Edit: Indicators were 2.0W not 21W - got new ones (and even a bit better looking, and cheaper, still much better finish and all). Bike is now ready (tail brake is not done yet, and neutral light is not going to be done at all). Some pics coming soon.

Finally ready for summer 2013!

Same link http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/download.html

Edited this post since edited my homepages.

Impressive polishing!

I am usually against chopping and changing but that is a nice bike

Nice. A blend between cafe and bobber. Has a very aggressive stance.

Are the covers chromed or polished?

Bottom end of engine is chromed everything else polished.

Just bought a Cafe Racer back end.. Maybe some handlebars next.. When will this end?

It doesn't end but keeps gaining momentum like a snow ball.

wow. This thing looks AMAZING!. Your photos are top grade too. EXCELLENT job man, really impressive

Thanks! Although I cant take credit for the creation of this bike. I just bought it and made some little changes on things I did not like. Some changes may be coming still..

Edit: Did some rewiring today (happy now) and changed the location of the horn. It is now installed near radiator on left side of the bike.

Edit: Cafe Racer backend came today. Thinkink of buying these: http://www.louis.de/_10da2eab2cc14ba6ec25dd67056a899a57/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10021601
Edit: Now when I looked the dimensions of those handlebars I think They are not suitable.

Not sure yet will I do these changes before summer or not until winter 13-14.

Some progress maybe. Still gathering motivation for modification. I may leave Goblin the way it is, but since I bought that cafe rear end did some modelling with it. Pics:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe0.jpg and http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe2.jpg

Also bought these http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe4.jpg they should come next week or the week after that.

Cant really figure out where to put the licence plate. Also the front fender looks now too heavy. Well still some time to think about new changes before the spring.

First problem solved and I learned that Finnish laws dont require fender at all so if front looks too heavy after mods I just simply take the fender off. Here is a pic of the new plateholder system: http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe5.jpg

Edit: Translated pages to english and removed some of the pics. New ones coming after the Cafe Racer project is ready.

Edit: Some progress with the tail section:
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe6.jpg
Also redone those leather sidepanels
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe7.jpg

Opinions needed. Now that I have redone the rear, do you think I should paint that roster plate under the tail section to the same colour than the rear itself. Rear will be gray - trying to match it to the tank / frame, but not sure how it is going to go since they could not make a paint like that on my local paint dealer. Had to buy a spray can as close as possible.

So gray or not?

Took the tail to the upholstery shop - they will make the saddle. If it turns out the way I planned, I wont paint that roster section. Also new handlebars came today. If I have the time, I will put it on the bike tonight.

Handlebars installed (3 hours of grinding to get the throttle smooth enough, went to sleep 2 am got up 6am..) and I really really like them. Maybe next winter new grips and bar end mirrors (and new exhaust).

Still mirrors to install.

Update 14.2.2013 - Handlebar section is ready!

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe8.jpg and http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Cafe9.jpg

Update 15.2.2013 - Problems with rear brake..

Update 19.2.2013 - The seat came!
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Seat1.JPG and closer http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Seat2.JPG

And it is READY!

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/download.html

Pictures 9 - 14.

Only thing is that the new (!!!) rear brake switch broke. Since we took it apart to see what is wrong there is no guarantee left... 60 euros (checked on reciep and 52 euros is the correct sum) and it didn't even move with the bike once. Well took the one from the clutch since it is not in use. Tomorrow Cafe Goblin will be ready for the season 2013. As you can see the season is not quite ready for the bike yet.

So I took my wife and son too the hills and did some speeding there. :arrow:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Sledge_n_Hammer.JPG

List of changes I will (may) be making winter 13-14:

- New grips and bar end mirrors

- New "inner" rear fender (so that it wont be visible from the side of the bike)

- Painting most plastic parts to the same colour that the rear is now, also the metal under seat

- New (allready have it) silencer to the exhaust

- If possible also redoing all newly made electrics since they are not done that well now.

(Allready put a rear reflector behind the rear spring and fixed that brakeswitch and tidied up electrics.)

Edit: Would be nice to know how much my bike weights. According to Bikez.com wet weight of the original RT was 272kg. I think mine could be something like 250kg?

Turning 40 this summer, so I bought to myself a ticket for a airfield run happening. Three 1 mile runs and the radar will tell how fast does this K100 go.

Did some testing on packing the K100 for our trip to east this summer. (One week, about 500km to the place we will be staying and doing rides from.) Not pretty, but I think I can get weeks stuff in it: http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/TravelPack.jpg

Took some video too: https://youtu.be/8QDYsni3T08 - sorry about the quality, filmed with my old Nokia E71. Sunlight also made filming a bit difficult.

And finally some drivin' pics of 2013 Cafe version:

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/1st13_1.JPG
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/1st13_3.JPG
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/1st13_4.JPG

Bike handles now very well with new tyres and handlebars. Engine feels more powerfull than I remembered and gearbox seems to have improved a bit (new oil inside) - did not find any extra neutrals this time (there is one between 4th and 5th). New clutch is good too. Only problem is with throttle which stucks little but I think I can fix it by rerouting the wire.

And well, as one might guess, all the mud comes directly to drivers ass. Only drove about 30km today since temperature was only about +1 celcius.

Edit: Problems with throttle fixed.

Good stuff Tenox! The northern winter is coming to an end for us all now - I'm getting itchy palms thinking of the riding days ahead!

I admire the way you are not just treating your bike as an ornament but intend to do some touring on it this year.

May you long continue to enjoy your bike!

Cheers
Dave

Thanks man! Kind words.

Edit: Throttle works very well now. Gearbox on the otherhand, does not anymore. Gear lever does not return. Nothing to be done without dismantling the whole thing so I just have to cope with it.

Edit: In warmth of my garage and lubricated from outside with WD40 it works just fine. So I'm hoping it was just bit stuck and cold.. I will see when I get to take K out again. Someone in Finnish forum also mentioned that I have non stock exhaust on my bike. Bike is 86RT 2v and exhaust seems to be from 4v. Don't know really, and don't know if exhaust is modified or not, but I do think that bike sounds nice.

Front brake is quite OK, but needs some force and the lever moves much more than on the modern bikes I've driven. Tailbrake works, but I have not used it yet - I rarely do, I just use the engine for braking. Some problems with handles occured. With old dragbar they were OK, but now with clipons they feel too slippery. For first aid I put some electric tape to them. I think I might have to change those to rubber ones.

Edit: Another problem. It seems that the exhaust goes so near of the left foot, that it burns marks in to my shoe. Installed a temporary (we'll see..) heat shield with steel wire on the spot, but I think I should by some heatresist tape to it.

Pics of some mods made after testing:
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PFR_00.jpg Heat sink
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PFR_01.jpg Throttle cable reroute
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PFR_02.jpg Temporary help for slippery handles

Other stuff
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PFR_03.jpg Spoiler remained, seems to work OK
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PFR_04.jpg Tail reflector (and Hagon)

Gearbox problem solved with only a washer.
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PFR_05.jpg

And a picture from my third trip this year (visited my parents and fixed that shifting issue there, when noticed what was wrong). http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/3rd_ride_13.jpg

I really like the effect of that rear wheel being so "naked" and the whole side profile now.

Bike is stable even without hands on bars, and it goes like a train even at 100mph. It just feels very solid and nice right now. Tapes on bars helped with the sliding issue, and tested rear brake - it works, but effect is not big - and tested more the front brake which seems to have power, but really needs to be used to get it out of it.

I really love the engine. It runs smooth from idle to the point it just does not rev anymore and it seems to have good torque in every situation. Perfect engine for a Cafe Racer.

Edit: 4th run this year and no new malfunctions + old ones seem to be fixed! The most suprice came with the improved handling. I can't call this a brick anymore, because it feels so nimble and quick on corners.

Edit: Moved the handlebars upward about 2cm to get a bit lighter position while riding. No time to test yet. Also noticed that my inner back fender has been taken some hit from rear wheel. Must do something about it soon too. Already tightened the spring a bit.

Edit: Fender removed and rubber carpet installed instead. http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Fender2.jpg

Edit: Moved handlebars back. They were worse. Back end seems to be better now.

I have now been testing the bike and it's new setup for about 450km. Engine is perfect for this kind of Cafe Racer setup. Torque effect is astounding if you think that the bike is 27 years old. 4th gear and it runs smoothly from less than 40km/h. I have had bikes that needed 2nd gear on those speeds. Suspension works well too, rear brake is OK, front brake needs lots of effort and I am not that impressed with it. Gearbox works really well, better than before the oilchange (now that the lever is fixed) and clutch is OK.

I really like the looks, and the saddle, and even my knees / legs are quite comfortable. However there is one problem. http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/1st13_3.JPG The driving position with new handlebars and saddle is somewhat too heavy for me. My shoulders and wrists don't like it. For my (once operated) back it is fine. I do think that for a cafe racer these handlebars are the only suitable ones. I still think that I may have to sacrifice them for better position - and I hate it. Since the bike is my only one at the time and I do plan taking it to longer trips I just have to do something. I am leaning so much to the front that even my ass is not quite in the correct position, which makes my knees go over of those kneeplaces on the tank. I have this other handlebar: http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/K100C_011c.JPG but it is way too wide. So I think I will cut it both ends about 5-7cm and install it back to the bike. Looks go down, but maybe position goes better.

I will wait untill july with this modification, because of two things. 1. I will try to get used to current position - it is great for cornering fast and OK on +100km/h speeds. 2. I have that top speed test run at the airport end of june and I think I will get better position for that with current bars.

Noticed today that when there was only about 5-6 litres of fuel left on the tank, the bike did not accelerate properly. Is this normal behaviour to K series? XR 1200 did it too, but only when fuel was really low. Then again XR had a lot smaller tank. I filled the tank (with V-Power Nitro - more than 1,7e / litre...) and acceleration returned to normal.

The fuel pump is near the front of the tank, so when the fuel level gets low (less than 5 liters) it tends to surge away from the pump under acceleration.

OK, thanks. So it is not a fault but a feature.

Fuel consuption has been really constant. 5,8 - 5,9 litres / 100km. So after about 300km refuel and it will cure that feature. This is nice since I have no fuel indicator.

I decided finally that the driving position just was not good for me. Shortened the bar I first had on the bike by 16cm. 8cm off of each end. Installed it and now it seems quite good. Seat should be about 5cm higher then it would be perfect.

Noticed one strange thing while doing this modification. Front brake started to work much much better. It feels about 75% better and has about 50% more power. I guess it has something to do with the position of the front brake lever / other upper systems. Changed the bar during winter and I was a bit suprised about the poornes of the brake, but since there was so much time from last ride I just thought "well it is 27 years old, maybe it should be like that" - Now I just have to say that the front brake is quite good!

Some new pics can be found:
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Final13_0.JPG
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Final13_1.JPG
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Final13_2.JPG
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/Final13_3.JPG

Springtime at its best!

The bike is lookin real good man. Can I ask what speedometer you are running. I need to get rid of my clocks

Thanks! Speedometer is a Sigma Sport 8. I think it is otherwise real good but there are 2 things I dont like. First it is a bit slow - I mean when I accelerate it takes a moment before Sigma gives the right readings. Not a big deal. Other is the fact that there is no light on it. Sigma does have a light unit for it and I bought one, but it is quite modest. Other than that I like it. Accurate once calibrated and has lots of functions and they say it is capable of measuring speed over 300km/h.

People say that wired (like mine) are better with motorcycles. So if this model is no longer available, I would buy new wired model. Wireless systems seem to have problems with electric interference by bikes systems.

Here is a closer pic of my instrument panel:
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/IP.jpg

It has:
- Speedometer
- Odometer
- Trip
- V Max memory
- Timer
- Average speed
- Clock

Relatively easy to install to K100. Best of this thing is the price. Which was less than 30 euros.

In my bike I have other than that an oil temperature gauge (on oilstick) and warning light for high beam, indicators and for something else. It has oilcan on picture, but what I have been reading here I think it is actually the chargelight. I do miss the neutral light a bit, but dont know how to get it to work.

Tenox wrote: I do miss the neutral light a bit, but dont know how to get it to work.

There are 4 wires going to the position indicator switch a brown (earth) and 3 yellow with a trace. If you hook up a relay to each wire so that when the earth is on the wire and make the relay contacts work in series then you can make a neutral indicator because all 3 tellow wires need to have earth on them to get a neutral reading.
If you dont understand ask and I will post a more detailed post with a circuit etc.

I will get into that gear thing next winter. I will ask then more if necessery. Thanks! Now I will just drive. Today was the first warm day and the day after tomorrow it is forecasted +19 celsius! I think my parents will look after my son then.

Oh dear. It seems that my season with K is over for now. Firstly after about 100km I noticed that the minor leak from left front fork was turning into a major one. Seal is gone (and the other is not that good either). That alone might have been enough but the K gave me some more. I paused for a testdrive and took off earplugs. I thought I would go refuelling when I started to hear some noise from inside the fuel tank!

It was my fuel pump. Still working put fallen from it's place. Well I drove straight back home (so long rest of my trip) and started to look what the hell was going on. Lets just say that I don't think that the po did a good job with the tank. Seal pieces inside etc. broken O-ring some screws (!) holding the pump etc.

I took it all apart, drained the tank and here is what I found.

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PP1.jpg (That rubber thing looked different in Haynes manual...)
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PP2.jpg (Other part was just lying bottom of tank)
http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/PP3.jpg (Nice job with the screws man..)

Not sure if I can fix this this year. Plus the fork seals and the throttle cable...

Great pics, whats in the bloody juice these days? Is the pump a pumper still? I wonder what a good seal would be, we use to spec nitril O rings for hazardous chems, may be better stuff now, wonder if you could design an O ring sealing system or get some flat nitril gaskets, it was expensive.
Giid luck with repair.
rick

Pump is OK - bike got me home with pump loose in tank. I might be buying this one:

http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/k/1494364

And leaving the Cafe for spare parts...

Looks good I like the sprint fairings. The right bike for touring.

So..

Here is the list of things I need.

Must have
- Rubber for the fuel pump
- Basket and a hose (fuel pump)
- O-ring for the electronics hole
- Front fork seals

Should buy more
- Airfilter element
- Throttle and clutch cables
- Fuel filter
- Plastic that holds fuel pump
- All the screws for electronics plate and for the fuel tank filler cap (2x 4screws)

That is something like 300 euros + the work for the front forks 120 euros.

Go here for a fuel pump http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-R-K-VDO-Repl-Fuel-Pump-16-14-1-341-231-p/fp-231kitplus.htm And Motobins for the rest don't use anything except OEM forkseals we have found it just isn't worth the headache. You should be able to do the forks yourself.

Well the fork seals are BMW originals and they lasted less than 8000km... So how bad are the other ones.

I have this place in Finland where I order parts. It may be a bit more expensive, but I get to pay after the parts have arrived.

Here is what I have decided to order: (Prices inclueded if I know them)

- Rubber for the fuel pump (69,00e)
- Plastic part that holds fuel pump (4,00e)
- Basket (for fuel pump) (29,00e)
- Hose from basket to tank
- O-ring for the electronics hole (6,00e)
- Fuel filter
- All the screws for electronics plate and for the fuel tank filler cap (2x 4screws)
- Front fork seals (2x 12,00e)

I won't do the forks myself. Just want to be sure I'm not messing anything. So it is 120e for those. I think I will get information of the rest of the prices soon and order then. 5-10 days and I will get parts and about 2 days of work so I think K100 might be up and running again before that speedtest at june 29th.

Fuel filter is from year 2008 and seems to be OK but I will change it anyway since it is off the tank already.

Edit: Still planning to buy another bike for longer trips. Maybe Yamaha XJ900 or TDM850. Maybe even another K100.

Edited this list after todays findings.

Make sure the sliding bushes in the forks are not worn as that will let the fore sliders got out of centre and cause good seals to leak or that the forks are alighned as per the manual, that is by pumping them up and down before you tighten the 4 lower axle bolts that can also make for a bad leak and wear the bushes very quickly.

Where are these sliding bushes? Fork aligment procedure was done (actually twice) when I changed the front tyre last winter.

The bushes are inside the fork leg and are the bearing surface between the leg and tube. They are replaceable and when worn can be felt as a lose fork leg.
Check same way as for steering head bearings by having the bike on the centre stand and grab the forks one in each hand and try to get forward and back movement with the front wheel off the ground.

If those bushes are in reasonably prices I will order them too anyway. And I am planning on tightening the steering just a bit while at it.

Decided to give old lady one more chance.

Edit: I did get funny idea though. In Finland there is possible to register a vehicle to a "Museum bike or car or moped or whatever" when it is 30 years or older. Benefits for this are that insurance costs almost nothing (30-40 euros / year) and you can legally drive that vehicle for 30 days / year. No one on the otherhand keeps track of the days. Checked the local "Nettimoto" which is the largest and best place for used bikes sale. Found these two interesting BMW:s:

http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/r/1508242
http://www.nettimoto.com/bmw/r/1491853

They would maintain they're value since they are museum registered and I could drive while fixing my K. And I think I could do that longer trip with neither one of those.

Good idea we have a similar thing in Australia and call it a Classic Club Registration as you need ti be a member of a classic club to get the rego

Little change in plan. Tried to remove the airfilter box. It is so stuck that I won't do it before I really have to. Took the air filter off and it looked almost like new. So I Blew it with pressure air and put it back. I won't be changing it or the throttle cable at this point.

Also tightened the steering and removed front fender today. Slow progression..

I don't get how the Air Filter box is "So Stuck". I suspect this user tried to unhook the SMALL end of the air distribution elbow from the airbox lid........No can do. You need to remove the air box lid with the plastic elbow still attached to it.
Once the clips are unlatched, the lid is slightly lifted,the filter element slides out the side. User said he had it that far.
After that, reach in to the back side of the "throttle body plenum box" and loosen the ring clamp around the big end of the plastic elbow. Then a bit of "twist" with the air box lid and elbow assembly should come free the plenum box assy.
The Air box lid & air elbow assy complete with the airflow meter will then slide out the left side, you can leave all of that hanging there on the wiring harness or tie it up out of the way.
Once the top of the airbox & the filter cartridge are out, it's a simple matter to remove the 2 bolts holding the bottom half of the box to the top of the engine block.
Perhaps a procedural mistake was made in this event???? You can not separate the small end of the elbow from the airbox lid/air flow meter assy, until the airflow meter is first removed from the inside of the lid.

About the leaking fork, how is the condition on the dust caps above the seals? If they let the fine dust through your seals would start to leak after a rather short time. Fine dust trapped between the lips of the seals is often a reason why a leak starts.

If that is what have caused the leak it usually helps to clean the area with the aid of a thin feeler gauge blade or thin plastic foil...using a sawing movement around the leg.

About the bushes in the fork.........don't know what Rick did drink yesterday, but I'll guess it was strong, since it did affect his memory........these bushes isn't present in a Fichtel & Sachs fork which is what you got.

ibjman: Not sure what you mean by that elbow removal. There is a clamp in both ends. I opened the one closer to right side of bike and the rubber elbow was stuck on airbox. Did not move a bit. So I gave up. I'm allready so bored fighting with this bike (which was supposed to be completetly redone at 2009 and in perfect order...) that I just don't have the time to fight battles that I can postpone to future. I would rather drive on our short driving season. So I decided to go with the old throttle cable and airfilter element since they are rather OK as they are.

Inge K: VIN of my bike is 0029782 - can you confirm that I don't have sliding bushes? Only markings I found on that fork where text that was almost unreadable (may have really been) but if you would ask I would say it says Brembo (?) and numbers 1.450.520 - if I looked correctly on the seal is number 1.450.127 and those dust caps look like new.

Thanks all for the help. I'm really frustrated and sorry about if it shows. I am not a mechanic, so my skills are very limited. I have been fixing this bike all winter (and remember it was supposed to be OK). And now I have been fixing it nearly after every single drive I have been driving. List of things done so far:

Chronological order:
- Electric work (no brake light etc.)
- Rear fender model I
- Registerplate holder model I
- Speedo install and calibration
- Mirror install
- New exhaust holding plate
- Rear Fender models II and III
- Speedo wiring done better
- Paintings
- New headlight and it's fittings and wirings etc.
- Registerplate holder model II
- Disassemply of power line (main seal broken)
- Threads gone of the neutral detent ball hole - Fixed
- New seals to gearbox installed
- New oilproof clutch installed
- New tyres installed
- New main seal, and O-ring
- New exhaust seals
- Installation of gearbox and other powerline parts
- One new exhaust bolt made
- New rear brakelight switch and wiring
- Leather sidepanels model I
- Sealing of fusebox and CDI box
- Fixed throttle handle (stiff) lubrication etc.
- Checked all visible bolts
- Fixed front fender bolts (installed lock nuts)
- Installed speedo light
- New wiring to the rear end - sealed it (2nd time)
- New flashers and diods etc.
- New horn and wiring
- redone wirings under fuel tank
- Registerplate holder model III
- New registerplate light holder
- Leather sidepanels model II
- New tail section painted and made suitable
- New handlebars (Throttle needed some serious work)
- New cylinder for rear brake installed
- New rear brakelight switch (again!)
- Had to check wirings under tank and new wirings to the rear end - sealed it (3rd time)
- New sadlle, taillight and tail section installed
- Little stuff

That was last winter.. After season start:
- Rerouted throttle cable
- Redone front blinker wirings
- Heat shield made for exhaust
- Fixed gear lever problems (with a washer)
- Tightened rear spring
- Rear Fender model IV
- Redone a bit front light assembly
- Throttle problems (stucks) tried to fix (better, not OK)
- Old handlebars shortened and installed back
- Problems with mirrors
- Front forks started to leak a bit
- Realigned front forks as Haynes tolds
- Stiffened steering a bit
- Left front fork seal gave up
- Fuel pump loose in tank (rubber melted etc.)
- Once again broken bike apart, cleaned fuel tank etc.
- Stiffened steering a bit more

And that is juts shortened list of all the stuff. My guess is about 150 hours on garage. All that for about 1500km of driving so far this year.

The forks which did have bronze bushes is Marzocchi used on the 4V models,
and Showa used on the 75's from mid -91.

Sorry I couldn't get that plainer explained.
What you describe is exactly what I meant. You can not remove the small end (at the air filter box lid). You have to remove the box lid with the plastic piece (I called the elbow) as an assy.
It's hard to see why, until you have the lid off & upside down in your hand.
Briefly, the Air flow meter is in the lid of the air box. It has a big aluminum tube in it's outlet that extends tightly into the tube you were trying to remove from the lid. (I made the exact same error). The outer diameter of the plastic tube has a groove that fits in the edge of the air box lid. The plastic tube has to be slightly compressed inward to get it out of the air box lid. The aluminum snout on the airflow meter prevents you from collapsing the plastic tube to extract it from the lid. I actually tore my plastic tube trying to get it out of the lid before I figured it out.
The connection you could not remove is the air OUTLET from the airflow meter. The opposite end of that tube, the larger end of the 2, is the air inlet to the plenum. Just disconnect the big end that's further in there and take the box lid & tube out as an assy.

Thanks ibjman. This is one thing I hate on these. It is kind of mystery science on what you can or cannot do and why. I mean how the hell can you know that for advance that it cannot be opened on that side. I actually gave up because I was sure I will break the tube if I continue. Next time I know. But that time is not now. I will do these later.

Tomorrow I will go and get myself a 1999 Yamaha XJ 900 S for longer trips.

I will repair K100 too and if I get it ready in time I will go and test it at the airfield 29th of june. At autumn I have to decide which bike I will keep. We will see how I like the Yamaha (Diversion is the european model name). It is a real bargain. 3 large bags, 45 000km on ODO new tyres, just serviced etc.

It's difficult to say which way you should/will eventually go.
I can't imagine a comparison between a Suzuki & a BMW at any level...... But then again, we, here are prejudiced.... from the get go.
I think you need to consider a couple of things: Patience is a virtue. It can be enjoyable to just "putter along" with things. There's no emergency schedule here.
There is great joy in "learn by doing". You will become more proficient if you stick with it, it's really a quite logically engineered machine.
Me, I'm just so tired of taking the fairing apart and putting it back together again & again to get inside for repairs. If I remember right, yours id naked?.......a big head start for you.
Unfortunately, I can't review your posts while writing this so I have to comment from memory here.
In order to minimize the frustration level, I suggest you don't take the time/money right now to make any alterations or changes.
Your simplest route currently, is to fix only those things that are required now to ride through the season only.
I think you have to really concentrate on anything that could cause a crash. It is imperative that you repair whatever may be causing the throttle cable to malfunction first. No excuses, fix that now & do it right..... No economizing there.
Next make sure anything brakes and tires is right. It's hard enough out there to keep from crashing without mechanical risks factored in.
After the bike is safe, make a list in correct order of items that make the bike dependable. You can arrange that list in priorities once you have it written down for viewing.
Just approach the project as a hobby, not a mania. There are things that you want in the project and things that you need.
Just keep your ducks in a row and always make sure that what your doing is fun, not arduous.
Finally, when you need encouragement, come back to the forum and we all will cheer you along.

Love, Dad (lol)