After Bingara I removed the TBs to re-seat them, new clamps etc.
I have the bike back together and it is idling like.. a thing that does not idle very well.
Main symptoms are
1. Poor idling (engine does not cut out.)
2. Alternator? is making a ticking noise exactly the same as the TPS when the throttle is twisted.
3. One tick and the engine does nothing. If multiple ticks, the engine bogs down, but does not stop. At idle. It sounds just like a short circuit. Like if you rub your feet on the carpet and then touch the end of your wifes nose.
4. Poor low rpm throttle response, but I am putting this down to poorly balanced TBs and not another air leak. Fingers crossed.

I just pulled the alternator and deoxit'ed it and blew some air through it, then cursed it, spun it in my hand seven times and held it to the sun.
Tick is still there.
Have run it in the dark to check for arcing, but nothing is obvious.

Main issue is the tick.

rossco

Crook bearings?

dodgy voltage regulator perhaps...I think I have a spare alternator somewhere in my lockup...do you want me to bring it around for comparative maintenance? If I can find it......Friday fun hey bloke.

Remove the regulator/brushes thingy and see if the sound still clicks. It comes off by removing the oblong thing with a black round thing at the centre. Once it is out it is easy to see how it fits back. It could be the commutator needs fixing.

Wow. Thanks Mr K. Yes please if you can find it.

Thanks Rick. That is exactly the kind of response that makes sense to me. I did try to undo the two screws holding on the oblong, but stopped as they were tight and my beer was empty.

So is a commuter hard to fix? Can I just buy a new ticket for the bus?

If it keeps ticking, does it mean that it is a bit of a bomb?

You may need to reverse the polarity of the neutron flow.

rossco wrote:Wow. Thanks Mr K. Yes please if you can find it.

Thanks Rick. That is exactly the kind of response that makes sense to me. I did try to undo the two screws holding on the oblong, but stopped as they were tight and my beer was empty.

So is a commuter hard to fix? Can I just buy a new ticket for the bus?

Yeah I can relate to that.
Never use force just get a bigger hammer or in this case a bigger screwdriver.
If the noise goes then If you aren't familiar with those alternators just give it to an auto leckie and he can machine the communist commutator and fit new brushes but bear in mind it may be better to just replace the whole regulator as the solid state components do start to leak after a while and give charging trouble.

I guess a voltmeter and multimeter are in order too then..Doctor Klomp is bringing his big bag on Friday....

Dr Klompy came and went.
Problem sorted.
Not the alternator. Dr K dragged one along that we tried and made no difference.

It is the 2/3 coil arcing on the black metal strip that runs up the back of it.
Not sure what causes it, but it is sparking up most of the length by the look.
Managed a temporary fix with some electrical tape.

Anyone have a 2/3 coil for sale?

So what would make mine fail so dramatically?

On a positive note, the Doctor also dragged along his carb balance and sorted mine a treat.
Only cost me one glass of water with ice, a silver bullet and some air conditioning to escape the 35+deg heat.

Thanks Doc

I think I have a couple of coils in the shed. Will have a look in the morning.
Sean.

rossco ...the iron cores that go through the high tension coil are laminated . and bound in the epoxy durring the manufacture process .

if the core becomes corroded, expansion starts to happen probably forming a slight crack in the epoxy ...water gets in and then the insulation properties take a big dive ....

a once in a while jump accros the insulation becomes a conductive track as it pitts the epoxy ...and turns to carbon .

you could clean up the epoxy around the high voltage outputs ...clean out the cracks near the core ...then pour some more epoxy over the whole lot to seal it all up ....but....the long term solution is to replace the coil, im afraid .

this kinda thing happens more frequently with adverse atmospheres like wet weather and a build up of crap round the high volt terminals ...not counting high volt spark leads becoming fractured etc ... and cable creep out of the high volt posts .

i got some coils off a "good running bike" from blighty ...only to find that both were open cicuit (internal to the coil itself on the high volt side)

the terminals to the spark leads were corroded to the max ...took quite a while to disolve the junk inside the output post ... and i recon a fair bit of terminal to earth spark jumping would have been going on .

i have prommised to post the disection of the coils, when i get to it ...

(too many jobs to get to it fast im afraid) but will be done .

good luck mate !

[

On a positive note, the Doctor also dragged along his carb balance and sorted mine a treat.
Only cost me one glass of water with ice, a silver bullet and some air conditioning to escape the 35+deg heat.

Thanks Doc[/quote]

and look what else Rossco gave me

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-K-1-K1-/290753857237?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item43b247c6d5

I wish

Lemmeknowifyawannem.

Oder eben nich.......

Thanks Sean, but I managed to find one for cheap locally.
You hang on to yours so you can get that second bike happening.

I have removed my old coils in anticipation of installing the replacements and did some checking.
I have a part number of 0221500201 on the coils and cannot find it listed anywhere.
Is this just some random Bosch number?

Anyway, resistance on 2/3 coil is 10.6k (this is the dodgy sparky one) and resistance on 1/4 is nothing or in my terms it makes no difference if I test the coil or not the reading does not change.

So how is it possible the bike was working? I am calling magic, but I have been known to be wrong.
rossco

rossco wrote:I have a part number of 0221500201 on the coils and cannot find it listed anywhere.
Is this just some random Bosch number?

Correct.

The 1/4 coil that reads infinity will only read that because your meter has a 9volt battery but the coil makes 40,000volts which will jump the gap in the coil just as it jumps the gap in the plug and that arcing is what eventually destroys the coil on the inside with often no sign of damage externally.
As for the 2/3 coil the resistance is 10.6k but the insulation could be breaking down only to high voltage and supplying a very poor spark because most of the power is being wasted internally and will cause damage that will on occasion actually explode the coil if moisture is persent.

New stupid question to ressurrect this thread:

Are there any compatible aftermarket coils to be used on the K's?

I imagine so erman
just most of us haven't been there yet .

I see listings of after market coils in the states ....bike shops fairly commonly
and to my way of thinking there has been some that are quite appropriate for the "k" application

Thanks! 
I'll start a new thread so as not to steal away rossko's

good man ....