1 ABS1 v2.5 failure, repair and consequenses Mon Oct 29, 2012 4:38 pm
GerryP
Silver member
I own a K1100LT with ABS1 v2.5. Last year I had to reset it three times. This year when I put the bike back on the road the ABS would no longer reset.
Perceived wisdom seemed to be to put tape over the flashing lights and ride it until you can afford to get it repaired. Which I did.
About three months ago on my way to a friend in Somerset the bike cut dead. No warnings and of course, in the middle of nowhere. This turned out to be a flat battery. I phoned my friend, he bought out a charged battery and I finished the journey (just).
Poking around in his garage I found the flat battery had been caused by a dead regulator on the alternator, hence no idiot light warning. I charged my battery and forgot about the problem for the weekend.
I went home on the coach, purchased a s/h 50A alternator on fleabite and returned the next weekend to fit it. Rode the bike home - end of story, or so I thought.
At the start of this month I decided to try to fix the ABS controller (I was periphally involved in the design of this sort of thing in my youth). With all due precautions I opened the case, took one look and put it back together again.
There is only one person who has any expertise on these units so I got in touch with Tosi Tabuki in Japan and he agreed to try to fix it. Off it went and very quickly Tosi had analysed the faults and fixed all five of them. The quantity of faults was unusual, he said, normally there would only be one. So it is possible I may have damaged the unit further by continuing to ride with it.
While the soak test was happening he said, "I would like to have your attention on the condition of your K11 because your ECU has defective at the circuit related to error 1,2 and 6 at the same time. this condition possibly lead to a lot of current draw because ABS relay and modulator are active simultaneously and will continue to do so as long as the ignition is on and battery can hold the current. that could cause the wiring from battery to ABS relay to modulator were toasted and the modulators were damaged. I recommend you to check those wiring before you install repaired ECU on the K."
One of the things I had noticed when I broke down in Somerset was that the rear ABS modulator was quite warm. So in retrospect it looks as though the simultaneous 1,2,6 ABS error fault may have cooked the regulator on the old 32 amp alternator causing the battery to flatten and stranding me.
It also leaves me a good deal of component and wiring checks to do before I refit the ABS controller.
So in conclusion my advice would be to remove the ABS controller if it fails. This stops the idiot lights flashing and allows the bulb warning device to operate properly. It may also avoid a long walk.
I also heartily recommend Tosi Tabuki's service fixing these things, he's quick, his prices are reasonable and he emails progress updates regularly.
His website is http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/index.html
Perceived wisdom seemed to be to put tape over the flashing lights and ride it until you can afford to get it repaired. Which I did.
About three months ago on my way to a friend in Somerset the bike cut dead. No warnings and of course, in the middle of nowhere. This turned out to be a flat battery. I phoned my friend, he bought out a charged battery and I finished the journey (just).
Poking around in his garage I found the flat battery had been caused by a dead regulator on the alternator, hence no idiot light warning. I charged my battery and forgot about the problem for the weekend.
I went home on the coach, purchased a s/h 50A alternator on fleabite and returned the next weekend to fit it. Rode the bike home - end of story, or so I thought.
At the start of this month I decided to try to fix the ABS controller (I was periphally involved in the design of this sort of thing in my youth). With all due precautions I opened the case, took one look and put it back together again.
There is only one person who has any expertise on these units so I got in touch with Tosi Tabuki in Japan and he agreed to try to fix it. Off it went and very quickly Tosi had analysed the faults and fixed all five of them. The quantity of faults was unusual, he said, normally there would only be one. So it is possible I may have damaged the unit further by continuing to ride with it.
While the soak test was happening he said, "I would like to have your attention on the condition of your K11 because your ECU has defective at the circuit related to error 1,2 and 6 at the same time. this condition possibly lead to a lot of current draw because ABS relay and modulator are active simultaneously and will continue to do so as long as the ignition is on and battery can hold the current. that could cause the wiring from battery to ABS relay to modulator were toasted and the modulators were damaged. I recommend you to check those wiring before you install repaired ECU on the K."
One of the things I had noticed when I broke down in Somerset was that the rear ABS modulator was quite warm. So in retrospect it looks as though the simultaneous 1,2,6 ABS error fault may have cooked the regulator on the old 32 amp alternator causing the battery to flatten and stranding me.
It also leaves me a good deal of component and wiring checks to do before I refit the ABS controller.
So in conclusion my advice would be to remove the ABS controller if it fails. This stops the idiot lights flashing and allows the bulb warning device to operate properly. It may also avoid a long walk.
I also heartily recommend Tosi Tabuki's service fixing these things, he's quick, his prices are reasonable and he emails progress updates regularly.
His website is http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/index.html
Last edited by GerryP on Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:13 am; edited 4 times in total (Reason for editing : Can't zpell...)
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Safe riding ,
Gerry Parnham
K1100LT (1993) in Silk Blue/Cream