Hello again. Now I have discovered gas in my oil. I know this involves more than a little something. Do you have any suggestions? Thank You

Worried, Ralph

stuck or worn rings maybe causing blow past ?

Have you had a problem with the bike not starting?
I did have this problem in the spring. The plug on the FI computer was not set correctly and the injectors were constantly open. The cylinders were filling up with gas and the result was that the gas went into the engine oil. It was nothing wrong with the rings, just the fuel injection.
This happen when the bike is not running and you try and try to start it.

Bert

Hi Bert .....I have never had a starting problem..... the bike starts right away but two nights ago it refused to accelerate quickly when asked and back fired and bogged down. It does accelerate slowly when asked. I'm tempted to end the season early, tear it all down and slowly, over this winter, rebuild it totally, new paint included. Any suggestions in this regard will be appreciated.

Thank You
Ralph

Have a look at your fuel pressure regulator. Weird story, but on another forum someone had a problem because the regulator was faulty and fuel was leaking through the vacuum hose into the manifold and into the engine. Pull the hose off, close the stub and try the engine, see what happens when the regulator is under pump pressure.

As Rene says that will do it since the line heads straight for the manifold and raw fuel will seep past the rings. Similarly as Bert says if the injectors receive a solid ground they will all pour fuel continuously rather than pulsing and that goes down into the sump quickly.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Hi there, in some models (mine) there is also a line from the gas tank to the crank case, is part of the evaporative emission control, the line has a relief valve to send the gas vapor to the cranck case so the vapors are burned thru the hose connecting the case with the plenum, if the valve fails liquid can pass to the crank case. One of the BMW service notes indicates how to redirect the line so it works as an atmospheric breather.
Best regards
JAP

post removed, found my answer

I'm hoping you have more details coming Wingnut ? Your last post leaves me in the dark .
Cheers G

"wngnutmv
post removed, found my answer "


you should post your findings helps others and can be filed for later reference

I was looking for the BMW bulletins about the fuel line that goes from the tank into the crankcase but found a link here in the forum. Sorry
Went to check my oil the other day and found it had quite a bit of gas in it so I've been trying to figure out where it's coming from. Don't have a definite answer yet.

Which means...you have removed the breather hose to the crankcase,
but still got problem with fuel in the oil, or.................

If so, the FPR would be the next thing I would have checked.

I haven't actually made any changes I was just looking for the info from the bulletins. Is the hose something that can be removed from the crankcase?

In my case two things happened about the same time that may have something to do with the gas being in the oil.
*First I filled the tank with gas and could smell gas for 2 full days afterward. I hadn't overfilled the tank (but it was full) or spilled any gas. Was it leaking out the overflow? How do I check that? Could this cause gas to go through the vent tube into the crankcase?
*Second, I killed the bike when taking off from a stop sign after riding it for about an hour. I hit the starter button and it cranked but wouldn't fire (start), I tried this several times over the next ten minutes before giving it time to cool (total time=20 minutes), at which time it started just fine. Outside temp that day was about 70F. Would all that cranking have caused gas to flow back into the cylinders and into the crankcase? I don't recall smelling gas during all the cranking but it acted like an engine flooded with fuel or a faulty choke.

Would the FPR also cause the problem I have when the bike is hot, I shut it off for a few minutes (less than 10) and it will crank and crank but not start?

Just to clarify, I've helped rebuild auto engines and do all the work on my own cars but I am stupid when it comes to understanding electronics and computers on vehicles. I guess they are smarter than me.

It have been a lot of issues with the evoporative system on the US models in different forums during the years, most of them have been about fuel entering the crankcase.

Quite common that this system being modded, is my impression....from the different forums.



Here is a how to change it to the EURO spec system (if not allready done).

Here is the service bulletin.

That looks like it might be helpful!

Thanks Inge!

Well I did it! Finally got up the courage to remove fairings and tank to see what the condition of the tank hoses were.

Some things I discovered are:

1 - these really aren't as complicated to work on as I thought they would be.

2 - the EURO spec update for the vent hose from the tank was partially done. The hose coming from the crankcase is blocked and tied to the frame nice and neat. The fitting on the tank itself is just the fitting, no hose connected to it. The tank overflow was sitting directly over the "cup" but there was no hose connected to the cup and running down by the right side foot peg. You can see where fuel has run down the back of the air cleaner box and onto the engine. Easy fixes but still no explanation for fuel in the oil.

3 - wiring and hoses are all in good condition and many of the hoses appear to have been replaced fairly recently.

4 - K&N air filter was pretty dirty and someone was kind of sloppy in doing previous work. I found 2 nuts and a bolt just sitting on top of the engine and the fairing was put together without all of the hardware.

Anybody know what the separated connection (green, white and tan wire) in the upper part of this picture goes to? Has a little tag that says KUPPL


As long as I have it torn down this far are there things I should be doing in terms of preventative maintenance?

No idea about that connector, but the green/black is switched power from fuse #1 and the brown is ground....but the last one..is it plain white?

Btw. the rubber boot on your hall sensor connector isn`t properly mounted.

Thanks Inge
The rubber boot was properly fitted as soon as I saw it in this condition. The picture does not show it very well but the heavy black wire of the hall sensor has some exposed silver around it. Is it suppose to be that way?

The hall sensor wire is shielded, I`ll guess it`s the shield that you see.

BTW. about that connector, if that last wire is gray/blue....
this connector is for the additional instruments....
and the last wire is for the instrument illumination.

As far as preventative maintenance goes...

Disconnect the battery and then every electrical connection you can see. Get a bright light on and in them and check for corrosion. Clean off any corrosion. Pump the clean connections in and out three or four times each and give them a quick squirt of wd40 or equivalent, then put them back together.

Take the frame earth apart and check for corrosion. Give all the rings and frame earth point a good clean and a thin layer of vaseline, then bolt back together. Do the same for the gearbox earth.

If you can get at them the fan and alternator connections tend to get forgotten and are quite exposed.

I try to do this every couple of years, though that's probably overkill.

we recommend de oxit for all electrical connectors ...its fantastic stuff

wd 40 is good for remooving corrosion ...but then clean it off ...it forms a dirt gathering oily film over time which hardens and may cause hot spots in electrical conductivity ...electronic cleaning sprays with no residue are usefull for this .

Sorry charley99, I've used WD40 on car and bike electrical connections for the past 30-40 years without a problem.

First WD40 doesn't clean connections (I suppose it might wash dust off) you put it onto a clean connection for protection. The oily coating keeps water off the wiped area of the connections and prevents corrosion for as long as it lasts. Eventually it gets washed off or evaporates and the connector has to be revisited. Its not a miracle cure.

A cleaner which leaves no protection on an electrical connection is not a good idea on a motorcycle, where everything is likely to get wet at some point...

GerryP wrote:Sorry charley99, I've used WD40 on car and bike electrical connections for the past 30-40 years without a problem.

+1.

Used it on my K`s the last 26 years, no failed connectors so far.

But I do agree with you, Charlie.....it dries out and hardens over time,
but the protective shield is there.
And whenever a connector is disturbed, it gets a new squirt of WD40.

Thanks guys, looks like I have a bit more work before reassembly, but worth the time!