Hi there, so as expected it happened, the center stand gave up, fortunately at home
returning from a short trip with no baggage.

Taking advantage of the you tube videos on how to lift your bike without breaking your
back or the bike, I was able to rise up the bike by myself
(wife watching of course) so only minor cosmetic damages on the fairing and scratches on my pride.

This the photo of the broke center stand







Detail of the failure and 24 years grim







Had to decide between repairing and changing, as neither the bend pipe business nor
spares importing one are good around here, I decided to modify the broken one
and transform it in to a K1100 style one.


As mentioned in the corresponding treat, I want to make a 3d model of the bike, so
this would be the first part to be modeled.


These are the models of the original and the modification.




Using the models the length of the new supports an dimensions of the supplements required for the upper tops of the
stand were determined, in order of get a stand inclination of around 3 degrees to achieve stability and easiness at dismounting. Also interferences with rear
wheel and exhaust system were checked.


Check the fitting and interference




Cutting, fitting
and welding





And finally













Ready to go



Hope this helps

Best regards

JAP

Very good work Jap a 3D model sure makes it easier to see the finished product.

excelent work jap ...thats a great "how to"

That is very good and it makes sense. Is it just as easy to get the bike onto it?

And I like your heatsheild anti-vibration device.

rossco

Nice job Jap. I had a first type center stand 1983 which broke 2 - 3 times. Than switch to newer stronger one (1986), also curved at the bottom.

I was worried about corosion and grime inside tubes so removed plastic caps and injected graphite grease inside the tubes and pressed caps back. Center stand still in place looks OK. Maybe grease will help to reduce corrosion.

Cheers

thinking outside the square, great effort and top job, nice graphics,
certainly helps to visualise your project prior to commencement.
are your side covers (under seat),engine fairings and wheels stock issue for that year and model ?. looks very similar to the 1100 setup.
I think it was Rick G who mentioned a set of 3 spoke wheels on ebay , they look quite smart on your bike.
what colour is your bike.
Another interesting note , when I had my 100lt checked for rego , the inspector said it had an RS chassis number , scratched my head and suggested it was an LT, he insisted that it was RS, does anyone know if the frames are identical?
especially when you look at JAPs cosmetics.
Struggling to remove my centrestand last weekend( 87 RT), allen bolts wont loosen. Worried I'll snap an allen key, any suggestions.Cold treatment is on my mind. Thanks,
cheers Ed.

They are interchangeable. Someone probably didnt want an RS any more and changed it or the frame was bent and changed for a secondhand one. Being as the first K100 are almost 30 years old there are a heap out there that aren't what the papers say they are.

Nice design and good result Jap.

I also injected 'Rustcheck' oil inside the tubs. Rustcheck is a water repellent used here in Canada to protect the cars bodies from salt and corrosion.

I was also thinking of doing a 3D model of the bike, but this is a huge project.
What kind of software are you using? It looks like SolidWorks...

CF

vlsuzuki wrote: thinking outside the square, great effort and top job, nice graphics,
certainly helps to visualise your project prior to commencement.
are your side covers (under seat),engine fairings and wheels stock issue for that year and model ?. looks very similar to the 1100 setup.
I think it was Rick G who mentioned a set of 3 spoke wheels on ebay , they look quite smart on your bike.
what colour is your bike.
Another interesting note , when I had my 100lt checked for rego , the inspector said it had an RS chassis number , scratched my head and suggested it was an LT, he insisted that it was RS, does anyone know if the frames are identical?
especially when you look at JAPs cosmetics.
Struggling to remove my centrestand last weekend( 87 RT), allen bolts wont loosen. Worried I'll snap an allen key, any suggestions.Cold treatment is on my mind. Thanks,
cheers Ed.

Heat them. There is thread lock on them. I found out the hard way after I chewed the head off one of them trying to remove it. Ended up welding a 17mm nut to it and it came out no problem. I took a gas torch to the other one and it flew out.

Thanks Avenger , I will give it a go, and let you know.

Rick G wrote:Very good work Jap a 3D model sure makes it easier to see the finished product.

Thanks Rick
Best regards
JAP

charlie99 wrote:excelent work jap ...thats a great "how to"

Thanks Charlie
Best regards
JAP

rossco wrote:That is very good and it makes sense. Is it just as easy to get the bike onto it?

And I like your heatsheild anti-vibration device.

rossco

Hi there, the mountibg is more "crispy" than the old one also feels faster.
The anti-vibration also holds the shield
Best regards
JAP

vlsuzuki wrote:
are your side covers (under seat),engine fairings and wheels stock issue for that year and model ?. looks very similar to the 1100 setup.
I think it was Rick G who mentioned a set of 3 spoke wheels on ebay , they look quite smart on your bike.
what colour is your bike.
.

Hi, I think that the fairing is original but the rims are a mod. afther a crash, regarding the color I asked at the paint shop for the nearest to black dark blue they had, really dont know name or RAL.
Best regards
JAP

Crazy Frog wrote:Nice design and good result Jap.

I also injected 'Rustcheck' oil inside the tubs. Rustcheck is a water repellent used here in Canada to protect the cars bodies from salt and corrosion.

I was also thinking of doing a 3D model of the bike, but this is a huge project.
What kind of software are you using? It looks like SolidWorks...

CF

Hi and thanks
Regarding the corrosion, I noticed that most of the thickness loss at the failure point was due to external wear caused by the rolling over the ground during mounting and unmounting. This rolling area is also one of the most stressed parts of the stand, so I believe that eventually they will fail even if there is no internal corrosion.
The model is made in autocad, and yes the bike model is very huge proyect, I´ll make some measures during the nex spline lube.
Best regards
JAP